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Dimplex oil OFX radiator efficiency?

amtrakuk
amtrakuk Posts: 630 Forumite
edited 2 February 2010 at 11:08PM in Energy
Talking of our friend I know he says 1.25Kw is the same despite what source it comes from - true. I have tried a wall hung 1.25Kw Dimplex OFX in my bedroom. Despite it being on full 24/7, the radiator being scalding hot to touch there seems to be very little heat coming form it. The following morning there is barely a raise on the thermometer after 10 hours heating while I was asleep. Even leaving it on 24/7 for 2-3 days on high there seems to be little benefit?

With it clicking on and off all the time Im sure I got more heating benefit from my 2Kw convection heater running on thermostat, switched on when I went to bed. Waking up in the morning with the convection heater seeing the mercury raise a good 5 degrees during the night its got me thinking.

Does the extra 750 watt make all the difference?

Is there not enough surface are on an OFX radiator to radiate the heat?

Is a convection heater more affective at producing usable heat, is that why you don't see oil filled panel heaters around that much now?

Surely a 1.25Kw OFX being left on full 24/7 should leave the room baking hot?

Is it realistically generating 750 watt as the wall its hung on is absorbing the heat generated on that side of the heater - this is my feasible reason?

Answers how ever scientific welcome...
«1

Comments

  • albyota
    albyota Posts: 1,106 Forumite
    how big is the room, how many external walls are there, how big is the window, is it double glazed, is the ceiling above an insulated space, is the floor below heated, are there habitable heated rooms on the other side of the internal walls (what temp are they)
    There are three types of people in this world...those that can count ...and those that can't! ;)

    * The Bitterness of Low Quality is Long Remembered after the Sweetness of Low Price is Forgotten!
  • albyota
    albyota Posts: 1,106 Forumite
    thickness of double glazing units?, cavity walls? insulated ?
    There are three types of people in this world...those that can count ...and those that can't! ;)

    * The Bitterness of Low Quality is Long Remembered after the Sweetness of Low Price is Forgotten!
  • amtrakuk
    amtrakuk Posts: 630 Forumite
    albyota wrote: »
    how big is the room, how many external walls are there, how big is the window, is it double glazed, is the ceiling above an insulated space, is the floor below heated, are there habitable heated rooms on the other side of the internal walls (what temp are they)

    Sorry forgot to include...

    Its 18 x 12 x 9 ft... 1st floor, 1 outside wall, 12 x 9ft, 1 outside double glazed window, neighbours on back and side. OFX hung on outside wall.
  • amtrakuk
    amtrakuk Posts: 630 Forumite
    house built in 1902 so non insulated cavity walls
  • nalla_2
    nalla_2 Posts: 8 Forumite
    edited 2 February 2010 at 11:38PM
    You're probably correct in saying the heat is going thru' the wall especially if it is an outside wall and out the window too and what is left hasn't got enough turbulence to move around the room, my guess as I haven't used oil filled heaters.
    Was the convector heater open grilled top and bottom, this would allow better flow of air and being 2kw is as good as twice the output.

    Why do you need the heater on during the night could you not use another blanket or a higher tog rated quilt?

    Allan.



    You posted before I could reply, I think you have answered your own question re room size and outside wall, 1.25kw wont do much for you.
  • albyota
    albyota Posts: 1,106 Forumite
    due to the size of the room alone, I would be spec'ing at least 2.5 kW but with two rads, so probably double what you are using, is the floor carpeted, is there underlay? the science as you put it is actually just common sense, if there are draughts from the void below or the roof is not well insulated the heat will just escape, and be replaced with cold air. address the insulation first, the room is big enough to withstand battening out with Pu foam insulation on the inside of the external wall then plasterboard. this would be cheaper in the long run as you would reduce the amount of heating required.
    There are three types of people in this world...those that can count ...and those that can't! ;)

    * The Bitterness of Low Quality is Long Remembered after the Sweetness of Low Price is Forgotten!
  • albyota
    albyota Posts: 1,106 Forumite
    amtrakuk wrote: »
    house built in 1902 so non insulated cavity walls

    so...are they cavity walls with no insulation, or are they solid brick with no cavity.....is this owned or rented?
    There are three types of people in this world...those that can count ...and those that can't! ;)

    * The Bitterness of Low Quality is Long Remembered after the Sweetness of Low Price is Forgotten!
  • amtrakuk
    amtrakuk Posts: 630 Forumite
    Yeah Allen...

    I think there is prob a lot of heat being lost on the outside wall... I guess half the heat is going into the room, the wall it is hung on is rather warm. Im picturing the heat is being sucked up like a sponge.

    Im trying the convection heater tonight, its been on 25% thermostat for an hour and already the room feels warmer.

    I think this is why daily usage is so high compared with last year. Some people say oil filled radiators are the way forward, I find it hard worrying appear to be inefficient in comparison to convection heaters. Yes the convection heater I use is 750watt more but surely it shouldn't make that much difference?
  • albyota
    albyota Posts: 1,106 Forumite
    bit of a cross over of posts I think.....come on keep up.....:eek:
    There are three types of people in this world...those that can count ...and those that can't! ;)

    * The Bitterness of Low Quality is Long Remembered after the Sweetness of Low Price is Forgotten!
  • amtrakuk
    amtrakuk Posts: 630 Forumite
    albyota wrote: »
    due to the size of the room alone, I would be spec'ing at least 2.5 kW but with two rads, so probably double what you are using, is the floor carpeted, is there underlay? the science as you put it is actually just common sense, if there are draughts from the void below or the roof is not well insulated the heat will just escape, and be replaced with cold air. address the insulation first, the room is big enough to withstand battening out with Pu foam insulation on the inside of the external wall then plasterboard. this would be cheaper in the long run as you would reduce the amount of heating required.

    This sounds major DIY? lol

    The floor is carpeted and I don't think the floor is insulated. I get what you say about long term savings but not being DIY savvy I would have to get someone in to do.

    I cant say the room is draughty - I've done the cigarette test. Something I don't fully understand, why even after 2 or 3 day of the heater being on full does the heat disappear from the heater so quickly - about 20-25cms from the scalding hot heater do I not feel any benefit? Am I being stupid?
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