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How easy is it to build a stud wall?

Hello.

I have been reading up on how to build a stud wall, as I would like to seperate my 2nd bedroom up so that it creates a hall wall, and thus a smaller bedroom. What I have read sounds quite straight forward, is it a DIY jobby? Or are there any forscene issues that would get in the way? Any advice is appreciated.

Kind Regards.

Richard.
«13

Comments

  • I shall watch this with interest as the house we are about to move to Id like to reinstate a wall that was taken down previously to make way for sliding doors between the living room and dining room.
  • Kiran
    Kiran Posts: 1,531 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Its a very straighforward and quite satisfying job.

    Things for you to conisder
    1. the finish of the wall, are you going to get it plastered/dry lined?
    2. What will you do for light on the hallway you create eg natural light source
    3. if you are making a narrow hallway get the boards in place before you build the studwaork. It saves a hughe amount of headaches iff all you need to do is stand them up against the wall to fix them rather than get trapped between the walls etc.
    Plenty of info online about stud walls and also quite a few on here.

    Good luck
    Some people don't exaggerate........... They just remember big!
  • wallbash
    wallbash Posts: 17,775 Forumite
    A stud wall is my favourite DIY project :D

    Its inside , so its dry and warm
    Its never urgent . so you can plan and think
    I can play with 'larger ' tools ie chop saw
    Looks dramatic when finished ...... plenty of brownie points
    Nothing fiddly


    Just check the ceiling joists , for the header plate.

    Im jealous :rotfl:
  • Grz.26
    Grz.26 Posts: 317 Forumite
    Well, Wallbash come on over and do it for me! :) There will be no natural light source in the corridor, so I would have to install downlighters, or something.

    RE: The header plate, this was what i was unsure of, how can I find the ceiling joists? Would you put this up first and follow it with the floor plate?
  • Barneysmom
    Barneysmom Posts: 10,132 Ambassador
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Combo Breaker
    The floor.....where you put your floor baton down, make sure when you screw it to the floor that the screws aren't too long....you don't want to screw through any pipes under the floorboards!!
    Been there done that ;)
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  • wallbash
    wallbash Posts: 17,775 Forumite
    http://www.wickes.co.uk/content/ebiz/wickes/resources/images/gil/7.pdf


    A very good start .

    How to find joists.... pop into loft

    Put up header plate , sole plate and then 'fill the gaps ... tightly

    If you can afford a cheap chop saw ... makes things really simple, you dont mind cutting the up rights slightly too long .... they need to be tight .
    If you have to trim a fraction , easy with a chop saw


    I know a lot of professionals will use nails , but I prefer screws .
  • ormus
    ormus Posts: 42,714 Forumite
    a long thin steel point pushed into the ceiling will find the joists with no problem.
    i use an old thin screwdriver sharpened into a point.

    going into the loft first, and poking the spike through, gives me my starting point.
    then use a rule to mark the centres, on the ceiling.
    Get some gorm.
  • Grz.26
    Grz.26 Posts: 317 Forumite
    Some really useful information here. Thankyou very much im realishing the challenge now. Should start early next week with this.
  • Agree...some useful info...also planning a stud wall at some point.

    I assume you guys have all filled the gaps between the studs with some sort of insulation as well?
  • Plasterer
    Plasterer Posts: 819 Forumite
    edited 13 January 2010 at 1:40PM
    Why not try using metal stud instead of wood? Lighter, quiker, easier. Wall up insulated boarded 3 hours start to finish max (If I was on a job as a 2 man crew we would be expected to have this up in 1 hour if all materials have been spotted by site labourer). If you need it to be soundproofed use Soundbloc board (Blue boards - have fibres running through the plaster, about 1.5 times heavier than normal plaster board) Also if you want even better sound proof double board it. If you do decide to double board it put the second layer of board directly over the top of the joints of the first layer. Ie middle of second board should be directly over the joint of the first layer. If the partition is for say an en-suite use green board (moisture resistant board) If your partition needs to be meet building regs for fire use Pink Board (fire baoard) this board will take 1 hour to burn through whereas a normal plasterboard will burn through in 30 minutes. Don't forget also NEVER board right to the ground,ALWAYS leave about an inch from the floor to stop any moisture creeping up the wall - dont worry, skirting board will hide this. If you are not confident enough to have a go at skimming the walls use TAPERED edge boards, easy to tape and Joint - just on this note make sure your drywall screws only just indent the platerboard, cover with joint compound - DO NOT PEIRCE THE BOARD PAPER. Scews should be approx 300mm apart (don't measure youll be there all day - just roughly guess. Don't forget to put a pencil mark down the middle of the board so you know where to fix to stud.
    Also as last post suggests - Don't forget your insulation!!!!! Rockwool is a good one, however if your feeling like your carbon footprint is HUGE there are various natural wools on the market. Please use a mask when using rockwool - nasty stuff, also gloves, If you get the fibres in your skin and it feels ithcy only use COLD water to clean, hot water will open up your pores and you will not get a good nights sleep - GUARANTEED!!!!!
    Hope this helps
    :beer:
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