Nightmare garage repairs

Mankysteve

I thought it was just common sense to stop a car when the oil light comes on.
Also if the new engine wasn't a turbo and it hasn't had the approbate modifications it not recommended to stick a turbo on it.

atrixblue.-MFR-.

Mankysteve wrote: »

I thought it was just common sense to stop a car when the oil light comes on.
Also if the new engine wasn't a turbo and it hasn't had the approbate modifications it not recommended to stick a turbo on it.

garage would of sourced the engine by the engine code. for e.g AWG there are many engine codes for audi and vw and this would of been sourced from them or a good motor factor before purchasing a new engine as if any other engine wouldnt work as the wireing loom and other parts wouldnt fit it.
well yes you are supposed to stop and check oil level if the engine oil level light comes on!!

Honest_Hood

Mankysteve wrote: »

I thought it was just common sense to stop a car when the oil light comes on.
Also if the new engine wasn't a turbo and it hasn't had the approbate modifications it not recommended to stick a turbo on it.

It was nothing to do with common sense on this occasion. In normal circumstances I would have stopped car and had it towed however having just had the light switched of a few weeks earlier and being told it was possibly just a sensor issue I really didn't think there would be a problem.

Having now read the useful feedback I see that it has just been a very unfortunate incident of which I do not blame the garage at all.

No idea what you are talking about with modifications? There was no modifications carried out? The car started of as a 1.8T and has had a new engine put back in it and new turbo with the exact same codes..hence why I was aksing the questions above?

Please read before giving nonsense feedback.

Thanks again for the advice from the mechanically minded people who have been of great assistance.

Honest_Hood

atrixblue.-MFR-. wrote: »

agree with other posters here.

1. without taking off the head and then turning the crank to see if it was seized they wouldnt of know it was seized, e.g a valve or two may have stuck down in the head stopping a piston moving in turn none of them would turn with the head on, take the head off you see the pistons you turn the crank and then if it doesnt budge its seized.

2. as no oil was pumping round the system the turbo would of been starved of oil and pressure put on it may have caused a hair line crack or seal to go visually may have been sound but re fitting would of highlighted the problem, it may be cheaper to ask the garage if they can send the turbo off to be reconditioned rather than buy another one.

3. as garage could find no previous fault with the first diagnosis (engine wise no pressure drop car not smokeing) it was put down to the oil temp sensor so the engine management light was erased and customer told to bring the car back in the event that the same symptoms happen to bring the car back (common practice in garages to erase the light if no visable engine probs). your engine management or oil light illuminated again but in this case the oil was next to nothing in the engine so power loss would be evident, smokeing (exhaust pushing out smoke) would be evident, excessive engine noise would be evident, engine temp would read high, but you still drove the car that was your choice.
you cannot really blame the garage for telling you to bring it back when it was back on as you had a choice, have it towed back when it came back on (just incase it was something serious was wrong) or risk driving it there and a hope and whim everything would be ok. your choice was to drive it as you made the assumption it was just the light playing up and made it an expensive drive to the garage.
4. the garage gave you a choice before the work was carried out.
1. buy a new engine (the cheapest and most economic option in my opinion)
2. strip the engine and go from there.(not the cheapest as its time consumeing, and more faults can arise during the strip e.g burnt/bent valves,seats,stems,srings,camseals,worn cam loabs,damged waterpump, big end bearings burn, pistons warp sometimes melt bottom end may have a damage water or oil return, channel hair line crack crank seals may be damaged crank may have warped. the list goes on forever when a cars engine overheats..and enevatably snaps the belts too.

i believe the garage has been good with you and honest.

believe me i'm not haveing a go at you in anyway, this is my opinion and my advice is just that now the engine is 95% working that 5% being a broken turbo see if they can send it off to someone like BTN turbo for them to recondition it rather than swap it for a new one. hope goes well for you and your practically new car, be carefull when you get it back as the same applies to reconed engines they must be run in first like a brand new car and i'd change the oil and oil filter at about 500 mile's (some engine remanufacturing company requires you do so no to void the warranty).

Many thanks, only thing I'd say is there was no signs of anything wrong with the car before it stopped? No noise, feeling or otherwise...but it's happened so not overly important!