Hall heating up too quickly & thermostat cutting out

sindersoot

cm233lh wrote: »

Simplest solution is to leave the living room door open Then the heat from the hall gets into the living room and the cool from the living room keeps the thermostat turned on.

Might be a solution but would that not cost more financially to run due to the thermostat allowing the boiler to work longer to heat the place as a whole. Apologies if I have got that wrong.

richardc1983

sindersoot wrote: »

Just had a brainwave:rotfl:the double radiator in the hall is inside the bathroom directly opposite the hall thermostat. I am wondering if I shut off the hall radiator by quite a bit and opened up the bathroom radiator full and left the bathroom door open slightly do you think that would help? My logic in this is that the bathroom radiator would then more or less be heating both the hall and the bathroom.

yep that would also work well, again just make sure you turn your hall thermostat to max. Pretend it isnt there cos its not really serving a purpose since you have TRVs.

as long as at least one radiator is on max on the TRV you can then turn off the hall or turn it down halfway if you like.

sindersoot

richardc1983 wrote: »

As long as you leave one radiator in the lounge on max then you can turn down the one in the hallway, as I said right at the beginning just do this and then set your thermostat on the wall to max so the heating is running this means it isnt overrulled by the temp in the hall.

It really is as simple as that, that way you dont need to put a smaller radiator in and is the money saving expert choice!!!

Okay, thanks richard I can see now how that would work by using the living room radiator open as it could do with heat whereas the bathroom as previously discussed would have been like a sauna.

I take this will all be a bit of trial and error until the correct temperatures are reached.

sindersoot

richardc1983 wrote: »

yep that would also work well, again just make sure you turn your hall thermostat to max. Pretend it isnt there cos its not really serving a purpose since you have TRVs.

as long as at least one radiator is on max on the TRV you can then turn off the hall or turn it down halfway if you like.

Thanks again richard, good to know that is another option.

Finally, it is sinking in how this strange world of TRVs and wall thermostats relate to each other or not as the case may be:j

richardc1983

sindersoot wrote: »

Might be a solution but would that not cost more financially to run due to the thermostat allowing the boiler to work longer to heat the place as a whole. Apologies if I have got that wrong.

Nope because you are controlling individual rooms temperatures with the TRVs.

Basically if you set it to 21C then once the hall reaches that temp the boiler turns off whether the other rooms are warm or not.

With TRVs you can control each room individually, its like having a mini wall thing in each room except that if the radiators go off the boiler stays on keeping the water in the pipes warm but this means that other rooms that might not have gotten upto temperature will continue to be heated.

This is why you need one radiator on all the time as if all the TRVS were to switch off then the boiler is still on pumping water round so you need to allow it to be able to pump water in the system.

You came here because your hall radiator is heating the hall up too quick so the hall is reaching 21C and then shutting the whole house off from being heated.

So whether its set at 21C or at MAX, as long as the hall doesnt reach 21C then your heating system will continue to run, so makes no diff if it was in the hall or in shed it will stay on as long as that room doesnt reach that temp.

However your hall may still reach 21C even if the radiator is turned down a bit and again your system will just switch off so best just to turn it to max and forget about it.

sindersoot

richardc1983 wrote: »

Nope because you are controlling individual rooms temperatures with the TRVs.

Basically if you set it to 21C then once the hall reaches that temp the boiler turns off whether the other rooms are warm or not.

With TRVs you can control each room individually, its like having a mini wall thing in each room except that if the radiators go off the boiler stays on keeping the water in the pipes warm but this means that other rooms that might not have gotten upto temperature will continue to be heated.

This is why you need one radiator on all the time as if all the TRVS were to switch off then the boiler is still on pumping water round so you need to allow it to be able to pump water in the system.

You came here because your hall radiator is heating the hall up too quick so the hall is reaching 21C and then shutting the whole house off from being heated.

So whether its set at 21C or at MAX, as long as the hall doesnt reach 21C then your heating system will continue to run, so makes no diff if it was in the hall or in shed it will stay on as long as that room doesnt reach that temp.

However your hall may still reach 21C even if the radiator is turned down a bit and again your system will just switch off so best just to turn it to max and forget about it.

Thanks again Richard for taking the time to explain. Think I had a few blonde moments here and not just one:rotfl:

I have taken the plastic cap off the radiator in the hall and there is a brass tall straight thing(valve?) with a nut at the bottom. Is it the straight thing(valve) or the nut that I turn to adjust the radiator heat down or off?

richardc1983

The thing at the very top of it, its pointy you turn it clockwise, close it off completly, then turn it half a turn the other way to open it slightly, if you find that the radiator is warm enough to keep the hallway warm enough leave it like that, if not then turn it another half turn.

Hope this helps. Could you thank me by pressing the thanks button!

sindersoot

richardc1983 wrote: »

The thing at the very top of it, its pointy you turn it clockwise, close it off completly, then turn it half a turn the other way to open it slightly, if you find that the radiator is warm enough to keep the hallway warm enough leave it like that, if not then turn it another half turn.

Hope this helps. Could you thank me by pressing the thanks button!

Hi Richard, once again thanks for this information and the pic. I apologise I should have clicked the thanks button a long time ago, I will go and click it right now.

Cardew

I don't like to be a damp squib, but in my opinion your plan will not work.

Turning the valve on a little bit, or a lot, will not affect how warm the radiator gets. If the hot water in the CH system is say 80C then the water going into the radiator will still be 80C the same as every other radiator and get as hot as every other radiator.

All you will achieve in balancing the system is to slow down the time it takes to get up to heat because you are restricting the flow into the radiator, but eventually the hall will get as hot as before and you will be back to square one.

Presonally I would adopt the method suggested of 'lagging' the radiator with a thick blanket, that will lower the output of the radiator.

Of shut it off completely and open the bathroom door.

sindersoot

Cardew wrote: »

I don't like to be a damp squib, but in my opinion your plan will not work.

Turning the valve on a little bit, or a lot, will not affect how warm the radiator gets. If the hot water in the CH system is say 80C then the water going into the radiator will still be 80C the same as every other radiator and get as hot as every other radiator.

All you will achieve in balancing the system is to slow down the time it takes to get up to heat because you are restricting the flow into the radiator, but eventually the hall will get as hot as before and you will be back to square one.

Presonally I would adopt the method suggested of 'lagging' the radiator with a thick blanket, that will lower the output of the radiator.

Of shut it off completely and open the bathroom door.

Thanks Cardew, I think this is going to be a case of trial and error until I achieve something that works. Through personal experience I find it strange that even the gas engineers that have called at the house have varying opinions on how best to run a system where they are TRVs and a wall thermostat, this is what makes it all so confusing to the likes of me who doesn't have much knowledge of such things.