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Central Heating Problem

2

Comments

  • hansi
    hansi Posts: 3,001 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts
    but what will happen in the summer when you don't want the CH on?
  • 2010
    2010 Posts: 5,572 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    hansi wrote: »
    but what will happen in the summer when you don't want the CH on?

    I`ll use my immersion heater off peak econ7 :rotfl:
  • penrhyn
    penrhyn Posts: 15,215 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    Never done it myself but there are two problems with motorised valves, sometimes its just the motor thats burnt out. This can usually be replaced without removing the valve itself. You'll need a half decent plumber to diagnose it for you.
    That gum you like is coming back in style.
  • dogshome
    dogshome Posts: 3,878 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Hi hansi - Glad your problem has been diagnosed to a sticky motor on the 3 Port valve actuator. If you are reasonbly competent DIYer, replacing it is not a difficult job and there is no requirement to drain down the system to remove the whole valve

    The Grey box pictured on Post 4 contains the complete assembly and simply unclips from the pipework, a new one will cost app £60
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    dogshome wrote: »
    Hi hansi - Glad your problem has been diagnosed to a sticky motor on the 3 Port valve actuator.
    Thats not what the evidence above suggests. It could just as easily be the valve itself.
    If you are reasonbly competent DIYer, replacing it is not a difficult job and there is no requirement to drain down the system to remove the whole valve
    If you are replacing the whole valve actually it might just be a tad sensible to isolate it from the water in the pipes your are disconnecting it from!
    The Grey box pictured on Post 4 contains the complete assembly and simply unclips from the pipework, a new one will cost app £60
    If he needs the whole thing yes perhaps - I'm not convinced though and as far as the whole thing unclipping well I think you are confusing the actuator head with the valve body if I might say so. Even then some of them are screwed on - not just clipped on.

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • hansi
    hansi Posts: 3,001 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts
    Actually, my jiggling didn't fix it as I still had the problem when I switched on today. However, I am on the BG Homecare scheme and rang them. They are sending an engineer out on Monday afternoon to replace the item. Yes, I know I could have saved money over they years by not having Homecare, but then on the plus side, i know I'm covered and don't have to have the hassle of finding a plumber at short notice and at probably rip-off prices.
  • 2010
    2010 Posts: 5,572 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    How can you tell if you need the whole 3 port valve actuator or just the actuator head.
    Looking on screwfix the head only is about £30 and the 3 port £69 (danfoss randall)
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    2010 wrote: »
    How can you tell if you need the whole 3 port valve actuator or just the actuator head.
    Remove actuator from valve. Operate heating / DHW controls - if actuator operates it isn't the problem. More probably the valve itself is stuck and the actuator just can't turn it.
    Looking on screwfix the head only is about £30 and the 3 port £69 (danfoss randall)
    Its a tad critical for the OP to buy the same make model (whether it be actuator or valve individually or a complete unit) because actuators are not interchangable between manufacturers and there may be piping adjustments IF a different model is used.

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • hansi
    hansi Posts: 3,001 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts
    Just wanted to report that the BG engineer called this afternoon and fitted a new complete three port valve unit and it's now working ok. He showed me what the problem was with the old and the ball that moves in the unit was all gunged up. Thanks for all your advice and help.:beer:
  • hansi
    hansi Posts: 3,001 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts
    Following on from this, I need some advice please. Both c/h and hot water are working but since the new valve was fitted, I noticed that the hot water was not heating up as well and as quickly as before. I have increased the boiler thermostat to 60 degrees from 50, and have the dial on the boiler on 3.5 It has a scale of 1-6. Previously I had the boiler on 2 and it was sufficiently hot enough to wash dishes etc. Now I have to have it on longer at the higher temperature. Both the tank and the boiler are hot/warm to the touch and the radiators are hot. It may of course be coincidence that I had it done at the coldest time of the year (-7 here this morning), but is this something I should be worried about. OK, I know the boiler is 25 years old but it has always been very efficient, and we don't have the scrappage scheme down here in deepest Wales yet!:rolleyes:
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