Gas on constantly or on and off...?

stevemcol

how many wires (individual cores) go to your current thermostat /programmer?

Hooloovoo

stevemcol wrote: »

how many wires (individual cores) go to your current thermostat /programmer?

I'm not sure. I think it was a ribbon cable going from the Worcester programmer directly onto the Worcester main PCB. I'm not sure how you go about connecting up a third-party controller. I'll have to dig out the manual and see what it says.

stevemcol

Hoolie

I do have an electrical background but I'm no expert on boilers. My installation is a whole lot simpler. Just a twin core from my boiler to my progammer, ON/OFF.
You may want to contact Worcester or possibly post on DIY NOT or SCREWFIX forums for solutions (though on screwfix you'll probably get hald a dozen offers from heating engineers to do the job for you). When I've received me programmer and been through the installation instructions I may have more to offer.

stevemcol

Well I've fitted it. It took about an hour and a half. Worked well, straight away. I can't determine if it works to fixed temperature increase profiles or whether it learns. nI any case it seems fairly good at hitting a target temperature on time. Will have to see what it's like when the cold whether sets in.

In terms of installation, all I can suggest is it should be connected to the two terminals used for the room stat. That may mean leaving your existing controller connected and on 'constant'. It needs its own 230v power supply as well so I mounted it near the boiler and shared the fused spur.

Cardew

stevemcol wrote: »

Well I've fitted it. It took about an hour and a half.
.
.
It needs its own 230v power supply as well so I mounted it near the boiler and shared the fused spur.

I do hope you are Part P Certified,

http://www.weeklygripe.co.uk/a550.asp

I feel really guilty that I fitted a 13 Amp socket a while ago!

P.S.

Every time I connected that Green and Yellow wire it blew a fuse, so I left it disconnected and it solved the problem;)

Hooloovoo

stevemcol wrote: »

In terms of installation, all I can suggest is it should be connected to the two terminals used for the room stat. That may mean leaving your existing controller connected and on 'constant'. It needs its own 230v power supply as well so I mounted it near the boiler and shared the fused spur.

Thanks. I'll have to check if the current controller fitted to the boiler still allows use of the hard-wired thermostat connector. Hopefully if the internal wireless-receiver doesn't get a signal from the thermostat (since it'll be switched off), the boiler will obey the other thermostat connection. Maybe ...

Hooloovoo

Cardew wrote: »

I do hope you are Part P Certified,

http://www.weeklygripe.co.uk/a550.asp

I thought that didn't apply if you were only extending an existing circuit?

I feel really guilty that I fitted a 13 Amp socket a while ago!

Me too ...

... oh wait ... you mean that one that's always been there since I bought the house?:rotfl:

stevemcol

Cardew wrote: »

I do hope you are Part P Certified,

http://www.weeklygripe.co.uk/a550.asp

Not notifiable. Not a sepcial location and it's adding to an existing radial circuit.

Cardew

stevemcol wrote: »

Not notifiable. Not a sepcial location and it's adding to an existing radial circuit.

Where is that actually stated please - from the link you quoted:

I am a Chartered Electrical Engineer, now I cannot put a socket in my kitchen without giving money every year to a jumped up Certifying Body who no one knows of. Not only that they now change the Regs every year to ensure annual course revenue. PART P the best reason NOT to be an Electrician

I had a booster pump on my hot water supply - the pump had a 13 amp plug - and the plumber tested it my using an extension lead and said there was no way now he could now fit a 13 amp socket(he always used to do similar simple electrical work)

Pincher

A tenant bought a desk lamp, connected the Earth wire to LIVE on the plug, and then asked me why it's not working!
She also managed to make an MFI chest of drawers that has no structural strength whatsoever. It only stayed upright because the drawers were in it.

The poor regulators are not protecting you from yourself, but from people who should not be allowed near a screw driver.

I had to live in the same house as this woman! :eek: