My bedroom radiator isn't working!

turkleton

Hi all, hope someone can help as I've exhausted my very limited knowledge of central heating systems.

Basically our bedroom radiator isn't heating up at all under normal conditions. Every other radiator in the house is working perfectly and the radiator in question isn't feeling "patchy" so I have presumed that it doesn't need bleeding. I removed the TRV last night and the radiator immediately heated up but when I put it back on it stopped working again. The pin under the TRV is firm (I couldn't move it with my finger at all) so I presume that is ok and the problem is with my TRV but I don't know if I need to replace that or whether there is something else that can be done to fix the radiator.

Having looked around prior to posting I don't know if the make of the TRV or location of the radiator is important at all? If so it's a Myson II and the radiator is in the same room as the boiler.

Thanks in advance.

bryanb

Try working the pin in and out, it should be free to move. There is a spring under it though, it should spring out when pushed in with a tool.
Take care not to bend the pin though!

keystone

turkleton wrote: »

Basically our bedroom radiator isn't heating up at all under normal conditions. Every other radiator in the house is working perfectly and the radiator in question isn't feeling "patchy" so I have presumed that it doesn't need bleeding.

You should still check it though.

I removed the TRV last night and the radiator immediately heated up but when I put it back on it stopped working again.

So it sounds as though the problem is not with the valve but with the head which you removed.

The pin under the TRV is firm (I couldn't move it with my finger at all) so I presume that is ok and the problem is with my TRV but I don't know if I need to replace that or whether there is something else that can be done to fix the radiator.

Yes it will be firm but you should be able to push it down with a little force - constant pressure don't hit it with a hammer! - and it should spring back up again when you release.

Having looked around prior to posting I don't know if the make of the TRV or location of the radiator is important at all? If so it's a Myson II and the radiator is in the same room as the boiler.

When you put it back on does it go on easily at whatever setting it is on or do you have to turn it to maximum setting first? Now it may not be malfunctioning - with the boiler in the room it could well be that the ambient temperature is high enough for the setting you normally have it on not to cause the valve to open. If the head is satisfied it won't allow the valve to open and the rad won't heat up because it doesn't need to.

If it is the head make sure you replace it with a compatible one. They do not all have the same threading arrangements.

In the meantime if it feels cold in the room just leave the head off.

Cheers

ormus

a trv is very cheap, just replace it if required. esp at this time of year.
6 quid at screwfix.

andrew-b

TRV itself might be cheap to buy (as in the whole valve not just the head)..but draining down the heating system isn't very convenient and the cost of inhibitor to be added on refill will more than double the TRV cost! Suppose you could go the DIY pipe freezing route (though then there's the cost of the pipe freezing kit!)...but need to work quick if you don't want to get wet and still need to at least drain down the rad.

If you do replace the whole valve i would leave the olive and nut of the old one on the pipe and reuse them.

keystone

andrew-b wrote: »

TRV itself might be cheap to buy (as in the whole valve not just the head)..but draining down the heating system isn't very convenient and the cost of inhibitor to be added on refill will more than double the TRV cost! Suppose you could go the DIY pipe freezing route (though then there's the cost of the pipe freezing kit!)...but need to work quick if you don't want to get wet and still need to at least drain down the rad.

If you do replace the whole valve i would leave the olive and nut of the old one on the pipe and reuse them.

Evidence provided by the OP thus far suggests that its not the valve itself - if anything its just the head.

It is not necessary either to drain the system nor freeze the pipes to change a rad valve - you do have to know what you are doing though.

Cheers

keystone

ormus wrote: »

a trv is very cheap, just replace it if required. esp at this time of year.
6 quid at screwfix.

£6 TRV in 2009 = sticky valve or failed head in 2010.

Cheers

andrew-b

keystone wrote: »

Evidence provided by the OP thus far suggests that its not the valve itself - if anything its just the head.

It is not necessary either to drain the system nor freeze the pipes to change a rad valve - you do have to know what you are doing though.

Indeed as to head ..just pointing out replacing the whole valve can be extra hassle...all depends if they can source a replacement head or on tools and know-how!
Without draining/freezing, do you mean to just get wet ..only really need to put your finger over the pipe for a few seconds after all (or rubber bungs?) - just need to be real quick and know how to use a wrench!

keystone

andrew-b wrote: »

...all depends if they can source a replacement head or on tools and know-how!

Good point and thats what, by and large peeps pay tradesmen for rather tha their time.

Without draining/freezing, do you mean to just get wet ..only really need to put your finger over the pipe for a few seconds after all (or rubber bungs?) - just need to be real quick and know how to use a wrench!

Only just a teensy little bit. Changed a complete rad with the system live a week or so ago. New one was longer than the old too so some pipework adjustments. Only lost about ½ pint (careless blighter) but it was ground floor and a suspended wooden floor and a nice big void underneath so no harm done really. Might have used some different techniques on the first floor with nice cream carpets tho'!

Trade secrets old boy! :cheesy: :cheesy:

Cheers

turkleton

Thanks for all of your replys. I've just taken the TRV back off and looked at it next to some others and it appears that the spring that controls the bit of plastic that pushes the pin into the valve has gone (hope you can follow that). Any ideas whether this can be fixed?

Thanks again.

ormus

quote from the OP.
"I removed the TRV last night.........."

so i assumed that changing a trv is no big deal.