Noisy (clanging) Radiator

Hey!

Just bought a house (built 1989) in the master bedroom is a radiator which needs bleeding-Its warm at bottom and cold at top. At the same time it is quite a noisy radiator and it bangs and clangs (thats the technical term!) and there is a little kncocking just under the floor around it.

would i be correct in thinking all these things are connected-i.e to bleed the radiator should stop the noise? (no other radiator makes any noise so i dont think its a wider problem with the system).

The problem is, the nut you turn to bleed the rad has warped a bit and the screw will not turn it, ive tried pliers but the damn thing wont move. Its a simple rad with a single panel. Is the another way to bleed it? If it needs to be completely replaced is that possible without bleeding the old radiator....am not overly great at DIY...would replacing a rad be pricey for a plumber?

Sorry for amount of questions, any answers greatly appreciated!
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Comments

  • Wookey
    Wookey Posts: 812 Forumite
    The banging could be down to pipework that hasn't been clipped down properly, if the rad is nearhand the heating pump then it could be some vibration coming thru causing the pipe to be noisy, it could also be clipped to tightly to the floor joist and the noise you are hearing is the pipe expanding and contracting due to heat expansion. As for the borked air bleed valve if you can get the existing one out then buy a replacement and fit it in, if the head of the bleed valve is really badly knackered then either a new rad or removing it and taking it to a engineering firm to see if they can weld on a blob big enough to get vice grips on may work, this would likely cost as much as a new rad.
    Norn Iron Club member No 353
  • DVardysShadow
    DVardysShadow Posts: 18,949 Forumite
    If the radiator has valves on both inlet and outlet, you can turn them both off and replace the bleed valve. And when you have done that, retire you pliers and get a proper bleed valve key.
    Hi, we’ve had to remove your signature. If you’re not sure why please read the forum rules or email the forum team if you’re still unsure - MSE ForumTeam
  • ormus
    ormus Posts: 42,714 Forumite
    its possible to remove the outer plug and replace the whole thing with a new bleed screw.
    you will need the correct socket key.
    and get the parts first before you start. close off both valves to the rad.
    and yes you will need to bleed it properly then.

    the noise may or may not stop then. water hammer can be caused by numerous things. pipes may need clipping properly. the water pressure may be too high.

    a new rad installed by a plumber will be 150/250 quid ish.
    Get some gorm.
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    JLDL wrote: »
    Hey!

    Just bought a house (built 1989) in the master bedroom is a radiator which needs bleeding-Its warm at bottom and cold at top. At the same time it is quite a noisy radiator and it bangs and clangs (thats the technical term!) and there is a little kncocking just under the floor around it.

    would i be correct in thinking all these things are connected-i.e to bleed the radiator should stop the noise? (no other radiator makes any noise so i dont think its a wider problem with the system).

    The problem is, the nut you turn to bleed the rad has warped a bit and the screw will not turn it, ive tried pliers but the damn thing wont move. Its a simple rad with a single panel. Is the another way to bleed it? If it needs to be completely replaced is that possible without bleeding the old radiator....am not overly great at DIY...would replacing a rad be pricey for a plumber?

    Sorry for amount of questions, any answers greatly appreciated!

    Are you trying to unscrew the whole valve or the square element in the centre? Pliers dont work that well. Buy one of these to open the centre of the valve:

    11551-s.jpg

    Simple thing is just to replace the whole bleed valve. It shouldn't need the rad itself replacing. The valves are a standard size and can just be unscrewed and replaced (drain some water out of the rad first LoL). These are something like what you want depending on your rad design:

    bleedvalve.jpg5488.jpg12185429.JPG

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • JLDL
    JLDL Posts: 11 Forumite
    Sorry should have been more accurate. I have the key thing you use to turn the little nut inside the valve, but it just slips over it as the nut has warped which is why I tried pliers. To be honest the knocking isn't very loud which is why I doubt it is the pipes but never know. So....how can I take the valve out and replace it? Somebody mentioned different types of inlet pipes or something before... This is alien language to me be nice!!
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    edited 20 December 2009 at 10:30PM
    JLDL wrote: »
    Sorry should have been more accurate. I have the key thing you use to turn the little nut inside the valve, but it just slips over it as the nut has warped which is why I tried pliers. To be honest the knocking isn't very loud which is why I doubt it is the pipes but never know. So....how can I take the valve out and replace it? Somebody mentioned different types of inlet pipes or something before... This is alien language to me be nice!!

    It depends on the type you have. The two images in my post above where the whole valve is shown in a rad can be done with an adjustable spanner. The third (small brass) one requires a tool which fits inside it. Sometimes you can get away with removing the centre part completely and using a large flat bladed screwdriver to insert it - but that would be a bodge!

    HTH

    Cheers

    Edit: The tool which fits inside it is just like the one Ormus has just posted below.
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • ormus
    ormus Posts: 42,714 Forumite
    dykjlu.jpg

    they do vary a bit.
    this is like mine. the outer plug/bush is a flush fit. you may have to break the brass bleed screw head off with a chisel, to get the key to fit.
    Get some gorm.
  • sdd7677
    sdd7677 Posts: 128 Forumite
    I got the same problem of banging noise from bedroom radiator pipework...i spend whole sunday fiddling around to find cause and it seem nothing but from pipe work....As we have got carpet laid in bedroom area, I am just wondering that plumber can do the job...or do i need carpet fitter(to remove-fit carpet); carpenter-joiner(to lift floorboard) and finally plumber to have a look to the pipework !!!...sorry to hijack post but replies may help you as well
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    ormus wrote: »
    water hammer can be caused by numerous things. pipes may need clipping properly. the water pressure may be too high.
    Sorry missed this earlier. Thats interesting, I've never known water hammer on a CH circuit. DHW yes but not on CH.

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    sdd7677 wrote: »
    I got the same problem of banging noise from bedroom radiator pipework...i spend whole sunday fiddling around to find cause and it seem nothing but from pipe work....As we have got carpet laid in bedroom area, I am just wondering that plumber can do the job...or do i need carpet fitter(to remove-fit carpet); carpenter-joiner(to lift floorboard) and finally plumber to have a look to the pipework !!!...sorry to hijack post but replies may help you as well
    Perhaps you could explain better what you mean by banging. If its an annoying repetitive noise when the system first comes on or as its cooling down thats the pipework expanding and contracting and the pipes are rubbing on the joists or the underside of floorboards. The rad concerned might just be acting as an echo chamber and amplifying the noise. If you can describe it a bit better then perhaps we can solve it here or at least narrow it down a bit.

    If it comes to it plumber should be able to sort it if he's any good - no point in paying three tradesmen! But don't expect the carpet to be completely perfect as a carpet layer would do it. Not many plumbers carry a knee kicker in the toolbox.

    Cheers

    BTW It may be you have a completely different problem to the OP. How about start a new thread with your post and I'll copy my reply over and delete this one.;)
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
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