High humidity and condensation

dampdaveski

2sheds
The Driheater is a 500 watt heater, this doesn't run continously, but pulses, you can also adjust them to only come on at really low temperatures

ceebeeby,
easiest and cheapest option is to get a mould control kit, which has a mould killer in it and an additive to put in the paint
You will be able to get kits from
www.dampshop.com
www.twistfix.co.uk
www.dampness-info.co.uk
and both from my main supplier
www.condensationproducts.co.uk (kits are miles better but I'm byast as I get discount for buying in bulk off them )
though to be honest you might the dri heater cheaper directly from nuaire
www.nuaire.co.uk Their supply arm is fans direct, their number is 0844 5830044 (based in Leeds)
Hope this helps
DD

mariat

Hi David & Dampdaveski,

Thanks for the replies. I have a surveyor coming round this evening to have a look. He's a neighbours son, but when I spoke to him over the phone he mentioned giving me the number of some contractors who would drill holes, fit air bricks etc. Now I am sceptical that he is independant. Anyway, I think the condensation is being caused by this damp wall, and not visa versa. Everything I have read regarding old buildings says that a cement render is the worse thing you can use, as it traps water which then can't escape. But is seems that a lime render is not easy to apply. And this gable wall needs some form of protection as it is west facing and gets a battering from the elements.

David_Aldred

Hi Mariat,
Please keep us posted - your comments regarding renders are quite correct. The cement renders tend to crack being too hard for the substrate and often not sufficiently keyed to the wall and often applied to a substrate contaminated by salts. When cement render cracks it stays cracked. Lime renders tend to self heal as rainwater passes over them in the same way stalagmites are formed, plus they are far more breathable. The downside is as you say they are difficult to work with and you must take care with mixing and handling such that you really need somebody experienced in this type of rendering. Just an additional note if you are going to re-render I would address any wall tie issues and debris within cavities prior to doing such work so as the new render is not disturbed.

Kindest regards, David Aldred independent dampness and timber surveyor

naepace

2Sheds wrote: »

Hi
Thinking of adding the heat option to my drimaster, as I'm not keen on the cold air blowing downstairs into our open plan lounge. We still get some condensation too, unless the Drimaster is set to 5.
Only thing I'm concerned about is the cost of running the heater, as it would be running constantly in real cold weather. Do you know the costs of running the heater?
Ta

500W heater = roughly 5p an hour but as DD says it does not run continuously. Be aware however that you can buy a drimaster heat unit cheaper than you can buy a heater for a drimaster unit. I paid around £280 for my unit & they were quoting me around £400 to add a heater to a drimaster 2000 (which I was considering).

On another note, what is likely to be the colder surface. Windows or the external walls in my built in wardrobes (The air temp is around 4 degrees colder than the room air temp) ? & would it be the case that because I am now almost condensation free on my windows that I should not have to worry about mould returning in these wardrobes (currently free of mould for around the last 3 months).
Cheers.

dampdaveski

naepace,
you have a drimaster fitted now mate (not purchased from or installed by me I hasten to add):D the air inside your house is constantly being diluted with drier fresher air, therefore any moisture laden air (ie condensation) is being treated and dealt with before it gets into your wardrobes (was going to say your drawers:shocked:)
Also depends on your windows and the thickness of your walls and type of plaster etc etc as to which will have the lowest dew point

2Sheds

Cheers naepace and dampdaveski for the driheater info, I'll have to think about it not keen on the cost of running and buying it!!

Nope of the neighbours, all in the same 3 storey townhouses get any condensation at all.

So why us, bedroom windows dripping wet (before the drimaster), with a towel for each window every morning. While the neighbours not a drop

2Sheds

Update on my drimaster:

Drimaster 3S set on speed 4

Front bedroom tiny 0.5cm of condensation on bottom of window

Back bedroom 2 windows both soaked, needed a towel to wipe them down :mad:

Neighbours with no dirmaster fitted, no condensation whatsoever,

naepace

2Sheds wrote: »

Update on my drimaster:

Drimaster 3S set on speed 4

Front bedroom tiny 0.5cm of condensation on bottom of window

Back bedroom 2 windows both soaked, needed a towel to wipe them down :mad:

Neighbours with no dirmaster fitted, no condensation whatsoever,

How long has the drimaster been running ? It took a couple of weeks before I started seeing real results. Also, is there sufficient ventilation in your loft space & is the loft sealed from ceiling level i.e hatch, downlights etc. to prevent moisture laden air getting into your loft space.

ixwood

I'm tempted by a drimaster. What's the verdict of owners? Was it worth it? It seems to do the job.

Having said that, I'm still not sure what it is. Is it just a fan with a humidity sensor?

This sounds good form the website:

"In simple terms, a good quality low energy positive input ventilation unit will provide a significantly greater amount of energy into the home than the energy it consumes in the form of electricity, providing a considerable net energy gain."

If i want one, do i just but it and get an electrician to fit it, or would he buy it?

If the heat option worth it? Sorry, if all this has been asked somewhere before. Is there a drimaster thread?

ixwood

As background, I have an 1800's cottage, that's usually not heated above around 10-12 degrees, Humidity is usually 60-70 % (from memory, the battery needs replacing).

It suffers from condensation in colder weather. I do open windows a lot, especially when using the bath or cooking. A dehumidifier stops the problem, but is a bit of hassle/expense.