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Ask Jeff? B@ll@x
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All the plants in my garden grow in the ground, apart from the ones in the brick and concrete planters and raised beds, and if they are lucky get a nitrate fertiliser as well.
Mikey,
it's a good point you make, HOWEVER it is a simple botanical fact that mould growth will NOT grow directly on a wall affected by true rising damp. I'ts not a sales pitch I use, it's not a scam it's a simple fact.
If I sold a damp proof course every time someone with a mouldy wall rang me asking for a DPC then I would be a lot more well off than I am now!
True rising damp takes years to appear in a property and in this time it has picked up all sorts of contaminants from the mortar / masonry etc (much of which is the source for these salts)
DDThe advice I give on here is based on my many years in the preservation industry. I choose to remain anonymous, I have no desire to get work from anyone. No one can give 100% accurate advice on a forum if I get it wrong you'll get a sincere apology and that's all:D
Don't like what I have to say? Call me on 0800 KMA;)0 -
sorry hope you don't mind but I have a damp/condensation problem we just can't shift. It's on a chimney breast of an 1890's house - outside wall - solid brick construction wall and goes about half way down and up onto ceiling. It shows itself in browny patches and is worse after rain. We have tried various different types of cowls on the chimney - we have had the outside wall repointed in places we have been up into the attic above and there are salt deposits on the floor but nothing excessive we have now taken off the plaster and replastered and yet the problem persists. We have redecorated (about a year after plaster was replaced) and the staining is back probably worse than ever. any thoughts/advice please?
are u using this chimney?
if not - try suffing it up with insulation (rockwool would be the simplest way to do it).
(If you are sure that the cause of this is not water ingres than it is condensation.)0 -
are u using this chimney?
if not - try suffing it up with insulation (rockwool would be the simplest way to do it).
(If you are sure that the cause of this is not water ingres than it is condensation.)The advice I give on here is based on my many years in the preservation industry. I choose to remain anonymous, I have no desire to get work from anyone. No one can give 100% accurate advice on a forum if I get it wrong you'll get a sincere apology and that's all:D
Don't like what I have to say? Call me on 0800 KMA;)0 -
dampdaveski wrote: »Mikey,
it's a good point you make, HOWEVER it is a simple botanical fact that mould growth will NOT grow directly on a wall affected by true rising damp. I'ts not a sales pitch I use, it's not a scam it's a simple fact.
If I sold a damp proof course every time someone with a mouldy wall rang me asking for a DPC then I would be a lot more well off than I am now!
True rising damp takes years to appear in a property and in this time it has picked up all sorts of contaminants from the mortar / masonry etc (much of which is the source for these salts)
DD
I bought a house with rising damp. It's definitely real.
A 1850's terrace, no dpc, and the bricks laid straight into the soil. Outside walls tanked from steet level to the windows. The walls, especially the mortar, felt damp. In fact the mortar could be raked out by hand. There was only a bit of mold, just were one patch of plaster had blown off the wall. The house also had a distinct smell, but only when it was cold. A chemical low pressure injection dpc cured it. The walls have dried out, the mortar has hardened up, I have rendered some walls, and dry lined others. (I also did the floor at the same time, it was clay tiles straight on soil.)0 -
dampdaveski wrote: »:eek: Don't try this at home kids! Thursday no offense but your advice is best kept to yourself
sure
:rotfl:0
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