Protection for oak doors?

aliasojo

Called Howdens. One bit of a nippy sweetie tells me they can't help, all they can do is tell me what not to use (i.e. wax or oil). :rolleyes:

She told me to go to B&Q or Dulux and someone there could tell me what to use. I pointed out that I'd already approached a couple of coating manufacturers and they told me I had to go with what the door manufacturer specified.

So.......I then called Howdens in Edinburgh who were much more helpful. Bloke there tells me that anything water based is a no-no, it has to be solvent/oil based. Sikkens, Sadolin or Rustins are the recommended makes, it doesn't matter too much what product in particular as long as it seals and is not water based. Oils and waxes wont seal, they're permeable.

Water based products and oils will risk the veneers delaminating.

So I need to find a solvent based product that wont yellow.......and I think that's unlikely.






Edit: Just called Sikkens. Lovely man (I'm sure he had dark hair and blue eyes judging by his voice :rotfl:) was very helpful and explained about the risk of the veneers delaminating. Part of the risk is just a simple fact of the grain being raised away from the sub base because the veneer soaks up the water based product or oil. The other part of the risk is because the glues used in manufacture can sometimes react with the product being applied and will weaken, so over time the veneers will lift. More so in water based/oil/wax situations. He confirmed that water based products will resist yellowing more than solvent based ones.

He told me the best way to coat the door and even what paint brush to use. I do like helpful people.

Now, because I have to be one of life's more unlucky people, all of MSE will have lovely oiled doors and I will be the one who has the door that will delaminate, so I'm going to risk the yellowing and use the solvent based TSi. :rolleyes:

2nd Edit: I really wish I wasn't so anal sometimes. :rolleyes:

TomsMom

aliasojo wrote: »

Edit: Just called Sikkens. Lovely man (I'm sure he had dark hair and blue eyes judging by his voice :rotfl:) was very helpful and explained about the risk of the veneers delaminating.

Hey, that's not fair! Why did I have to get a dragon at the council this morning when I rang up asking for a form for OH. She ended by saying "I suppose you'd like an English form". Obviously doesn't like incomers to Wales then :rolleyes: .

That's really great information that you've found out and thanks for passing on. I'm hoping our doors don't delaminate but if they do I'm coming back to ask what you used .

I'm glad you got it sorted and found the answer. Maybe anal is good!

joinerguy

You can't use wax, oil or water based products as they penetrate the glue line under the veneer and when it reacts you get a delamination problem.

TomsMom

joinerguy wrote: »

You can't use wax, oil or water based products as they penetrate the glue line under the veneer and when it reacts you get a delamination problem.

Oh sh*t. It would have been wonderful if Wickes had that sort of product knowledge when you ask a direct question about their doors. So, how long does it take for that to happen? Just wondering how long I've got to save up before needing to replace 13 doors.

DIYDunce

I also have new oak veneer doors (4 panel Victorian, raised mouldings) similar in construction to Howdens. They are fitted and look great. I plan to start treating them tomorrow. I only looked here to see if I could use a cloth rather than a brush!

I will be using Osmo Polyx Oil as recommended by the product vendor who was aware of exactly what it was for. They said, "[FONT=&quot]We recommend Osmo Polyx Oil, this is a hardwax oil that comes in either satin or matt. It brings out the grain beautifully – it is actually the same product as the door oil but packaged for a different market. Therefore the price is much better than for the small DIY tin of door oil."[/FONT]

I hope I am not making a mistake!

By the way, Howden's website has a technical sheet for the Dordorgne doors which states their moisture content is "10-14%". Not sure how they can be so accurate and surely it will change over time with the humidity in the home. (This is my first post so I can't add a link but it is easy to find on their site).

Anyone know if a cloth will do the job?[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]

rosekitten

I have those doors from Howdens they have
two coats of Osmo oil on them and they look
amazing.Its really hard wearing

rosekitten

the great thing with Osmo is you can apply
it with anything,not being the greatst painter
myself I just sloshed it on and the finished
result looks as if I had got a decorator in.

made sure I got the carpenter to fix them
with fire door hnges as they weight 44k each

The carpenter and the builders resccomended
osmo,also the man on the phone when I rang to order
my door Osmo or dutch oil,chose Osmo as its a eco friendly
green product

TomsMom

DIYDunce wrote: »

I also have new oak veneer doors (4 panel Victorian, raised mouldings) similar in construction to Howdens. They are fitted and look great. I plan to start treating them tomorrow. I only looked here to see if I could use a cloth rather than a brush!

I will be using Osmo Polyx Oil as recommended by the product vendor who was aware of exactly what it was for. They said, "[FONT=&quot]We recommend Osmo Polyx Oil, this is a hardwax oil that comes in either satin or matt. It brings out the grain beautifully – it is actually the same product as the door oil but packaged for a different market. Therefore the price is much better than for the small DIY tin of door oil."[/FONT]

I hope I am not making a mistake!


Anyone know if a cloth will do the job?[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]

Interesting info DIYDunce (I love your user name!) The only problem I can foresee is IF the veneer does delaminate in the future no-one will accept responsibility - certainly not the product vendor who recommended the Polyx Oil. We used this and our doors look great and TBH I'm not going to lose any sleep over it.

I'm wondering why you want to use a cloth???? It goes on so easily with a brush. I think it will be less messy with a brush, it will soak into a cloth and saturate it then you'll be holding a very wet cloth. But I can't see anything wrong with that. OH brushed on and then went over with a cloth.

suisidevw

agree..... we used a brush on our floor with the Polyx Oil (matt) and it was brilliant to put on!

leveller2911

Blackfriars Traditional woodstain (clear Satin finish) good on solid oak to for holding back the Tanic acid.Its an oil based finish which is ok on exterior joinery and interior.
Its also microporus so it allows wood to breathe and is good at resisting cracking..