Peel-Away or Kling-Strip - which is better

pineapple

To those who have used Kling Strip how did you dispose of the scraped off/washed off product afterwards?

weegieavlover

I know this is a rather late response to this thread and apologies if I am resurrecting an old thread.

However I have experience of Peel Away, I am a DIYer and not a professional but have got to know this product fairly well over the past few years. my wife and I bought a Victorian terrace that had been previously owned by the Buddhist organisation. The livingroom had Orange painted windows and bay surround, red skirting boards, red and orange picture rail and red cornice.

I started off with Peel Away 7 on the cornice and it never really did the job. Peel Away 7 is less caustic and does not need neutralising but because of this is not as good at removing multiple layers of paint (in my experience anyway).

I phoned Peel Away directly and they recommend I try Peel Away 1, which I did. The cheapest and best place I buy from is a place called restexpress.com they not only sell the Peel Away 1 product but also include everything else you need i.e. poltus blankets, neutraliser, spatula, etc.

I put peel away on with a throw-away, cheapo brush out of a pack so that I could put in thick and get into the intricate detailed bits of the cornice. I then put the blankets on and sealed up with masking tape (stop air getting in and drying it out as well as holding it in place).

I then left it for about a week to work on the paint. Then I removed slowly using the spatula to remove any excess left behind. After this I used several buckets of water and a scrubbing brush (a nylon brush as it was not too harsh) to remove the last of it. Once I had finished scrubbing I neutralised it immediately, then again 24hrs later. You don't have to go mental with the stuff but just make sure you spray it all.

Finally I would leave it another week for it to completely dry out. Once it had dried out I found a powdery residue. This time I got another bucket of water and a disposable cloth and wiped this off. Left it 24hrs before applying an alkaline primer to the cornice to seal it.

Once that was done I could then start with painting it. The stuff is amazing, especially on cornice, I found it less effective on wood stripping though.

I hope this helps.

marr0g

Hi all! I appreciate that this is an old thread, but as I found it myself on Google while looking for good tips for stripping cornicing, I thought it might be worth adding my experience.

We just bought an old Victorian house that was badly abused in the seventies, and its cornicing has many layers of paint on. In most rooms this is no big deal as it's plain cornicing but there are two with floral plasterwork, and we wanted to strip it back, if possible, before redecorating.

We were intrigued by the porridge idea (and its cost!) and intended to give it a go with both porridge and Peelaway 7 - allowing for a little more time for the porridge to work but resigning ourselves that if it was a significantly slower removal and clean-up, we might simply want to shell-out for the good stuff.

As it turned out, our local Homebase and B&Q didn't carry either Peelaway or Klingstrip and though we could of course order online, we opted to try out porridge first.

We cooked up a small batch with just boiled water, no salt or sugar or milk, using fairly cheap porridge oats. We went for a consistency that was as moist as it could get without being runny - a gooey consistency that stuck to the spoon (well, plastic scraper) and oozed slowly off only if you scooped up a large lump.

Then we applied it to a stretch of cornicing with a plastic scraper, maybe 2cm thick, and covered it in an opened-up shopping bag.

The principle behind this method, for those who were confused as to why it should work, is that you're essentially creating a moist paste to act as a poultice on water-based paints. The moisture in the paste soaks into the paint and softens it. It has no caustic properties, so it only works on surfaces that water can soak into. This would include plasterwork covered with years of emulsion. In theory I suppose there are probably several foodstuffs or other absorbent things you could use to make this that would have a similar effect (though off-hand I struggle to think of anything with the exact properties of porridge!).

Key points:
- Thick, gloopy enough to stick to a ceiling, but not TOO dry because the moisture is important
- From what we've read, value brand porridge is what you want - the posher stuff will be smoother and less sticky
- No salt or sugar (which will dry it out faster), and no milk which will go sour - just boiled water

We planned to leave the porridge for three days, but as day three was New Year's Day we ended up leaving it 'til the 2nd instead, so four days total. This might have been longer than absolutely ideal as the porridge was more dried out and might have been better behaved on removal had it been a little softer still. However, any nasty mould/rot factors were not present, possibly because the house is dry and cold, being empty at present but not damp.

Tools used:
- plastic scraper
- shavehook (pointy/curvy 'teardrop' shape)
- small star screwdriver
- stiff plastic scrubbing brush

Anyone would recommend using plastic and wood materials obviously as metal can damage the plasterwork, but we used what we had at the time and it didn't scratch it up too much 'cause we were careful - but we'll be finding wooden/plastic tools to match our needs.

The bulk of the porridge came off with some prompting from the plastic scraper in crumbly, slightly damp chunks. I won't lie, it was pretty disgusting, but at least we didn't need to worry about getting it on our clothes or whatever, no risk of staining or poisoning or anything. It took about half the paintwork with it. For the rest, the main body of it came off in big flakes with the remaining porridge, and the last of it involved some picking and more detailed work. It's not SUPER-fast work, but to be honest I can't imagine how the pro stuff could've gone any quicker than this did, unless Peelaway or similar actually pull the paint right out of the cracks without needing any scraping and pointing, which I highly doubt and runs contrary to the demos I've seen. Certainly this paint flaked off of everywhere first time, no repeated scraping or scrubbing needed, you just need to make sure you go over the whole area cleaning out the holes and grooves.

Once I was done I gave it a scrub down with the scrubbing brush. Probably I'll clean it with slightly soapy water too just to get the last stuff off.

We have a renovation blog for the house, and will probably do a detailed post (reusing bits of this I expect) once we've optimised the process. In the meantime, pictures of the 'before and after' and more thoughts on optimisation are available here: wp DOT me SLASH p441ui-2L (Picture of the porridge poultice 'in action' can be found in an earlier post)

(Sorry, as a newbie I can't post proper links, you'll need to put the dots and slashes in yourselves - I've used a shortlink to make it easier!)

Anyway, hope all this helps - just wanted to share this experience as on the one hand, sure, it won't work for everyone, but at the same time, think about just how much money you could save if it works for your paintwork!

daffybach

Hi, marr0g, sorry, but I can't make head or tail of the link to your blog! Maybe it's just me being thick!




Could you just copy & paste the web address into your post (as normal text as you cannot add a link)? Then I could do the same (ie copy it from your post & then paste it into my web browser). Thanks

daffybach

Forgot to say that I found your post really interesting, marr0g

marr0g

I don't think it will work if I remember correctly (sorry, didn't check back 'til now!) but here goes... wp.me/p441ui-2L

marr0g

Oh! That seemed to work, how odd.

Gingernutty

Hello.

Sorry to resurrect this thread but I have a problem.

I applied a load of King-Strip to a series of surfaces but wasn't able to get it off in time.

It's now a stone-like crust.

How do I get it off now?

Steamer?

alimardav

Hi
I have just used this to strip 6 layers of paint of a face side of an old oak beam as we need to strengthen it with more oak and it needed a wood to wood join. It was fantastic. I applied the stripper 3mm deep and then ensured the polythene blanket was completely air tight with no bubbles with tape above and below to keep the air out. I then left it for 3 days. Although the paint did not come off with the polythene blanket all layers were still very soft and easily scraped off with an old kitchen knife and then the final bits washed off with water and a steel pot scourer ball. The whole beam side (about 8' x 8") was stripped in about 1 1/2 hours. It's very messy so prep up properly but I can recommend this very highly. No nasty chemicals or smells either - just cleans up with water. I have used a similar product before but this was better - the secret is to not let it dry out and to leave it a good long time before being tempted to remove it!

Somos05

Many years later - BUT
just seen this
link - see below
Which looks worrying for Peelaway 1 and surprisingly 7 (which it seems to say is worse than PA1)- on a par with lead?!

As I'm a new poster, I'm not allowed to post links - but it's this, if you look it up
GUIDE TO CHOOSING PAINT STRIPPING PRODUCTS: SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS ‐ Rev. May 2014 - from California.