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Replacement windows - period house in conservation area
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It was sashwindowsnorthwest - quote requested before I had your intial reply.
Any idea of likely price from a local joiner as you suggested?
Thanks.
Well I would guess a general chippy might take a couple of weeks to do the job. Not sure what day rates are where you are. The materials would be between £200-300 i would imagine for your job.
Definetely worth speaking to someone at the timber yard for a point in the right direction. Lots of tutorials online for draught exclusion installation that you can give the carpenter you decide on too. I will be extremely surprised if they don't pass you some numbers. Let us know how you get on!0 -
leveller2911 wrote: »I have a small joinery workshop and mainly work in conservation areas.I don't think you can beat good quality hardwood casement windows.They WILL outlast upvc any day but it does depend on regular painting by a quality decorator and also the choice of timber too.
I wouldnt recommend softwood(pine) at all , mainly down to the fact that it is grown too fast and then kiln dried,that together with the fact that we don't get the good quality softwoods, they all go to USA as the forests of northern Scandanavia are all American owned.
Moving onto hardwoods the cheaper ones like Meranti ,Kuruing and Idigbo are very cheap but again like softwood they dont last.Sapele is better along with Iroko and probably one of the best is Cedar.So although you may pay for "Hardwood" windows they may last a little longer than softwood so if you choose hardwood choose a better one.
I'm in the market too and would appreciate some further clarification on this subject. I'm becoming bambooozled by the various "woods" arguments - it seems that the people trying to sell you high-end hardwoods are (expectedly) evangelical about their longevity over softwoods. But the people pushing softwoods use the argument that modern hardwoods are "fast grown & quick-dried" to support their assertion that hardwoods aren't that much better than softwoods these days and as long as you have a hardwood cill, you're fine.
So how much difference does it really make? As long as they get a good lick of Weatherseal every year, wouldn't Joinery Grade pine keep me going fine for 20+ years?
And what of quotes using " [FONT="]“Engineered / laminated “softwood for added stability" - would that make a significant difference? And stability against what, anyway? Weathering or warping or something else?
Secondly: I'm after sliding sashes - is there an accepted wisdom on springs vs weights? Weighted sashes seem to be signifcantly more expensive to make and install and I have no particular attachment to them (nor enforced requirement to use them). What is the downside of going with springs? I presume that it is more difficult to get them maintained/replaced (especially if you have had the windows made by a local joinery without the big-boys ten year guarantees etc). How would one go about speccing, sourcing and replacing broken springs in 8 years???
Finally - the new building regs come into force 1 Oct 2010 (u<1.6 for replacement windows as well as new builds). Does anyone know whether the magic date applies to the date of the order or the date of the installation ?
thanks everso
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