Joining kitchen worktop

I am getting oak worktops fitted, and one section will be in L-shape. How should the join best be made? I saw somewhere that rather than a square joint the join should be at a diagonal so that the the grains of wood join better and there is less danger of splitting/movement due to natural expansion/contraction of the wood.
I want to buy the worktops this week so they can sit in my house before fitting and acclimatise. I would ask this question of my fitter but he is Polish and not local so I know it would be a tricky phone conversation to have!
Having a diagonal join would mean I have to purchase a 3m length rather than 2m for one section so I need to know in advance.

Comments

  • What sort of edges do they have - are they square edged or round front profile?
  • cally1_2
    cally1_2 Posts: 392 Forumite
    I have a timber worktop and have a square joint. A joiner did it for me. I would assume that it is stronger as the narrow bit where it is mitred would be weaker due to the narrowness surely.

    Also when he joined them he used biscuits and some sort of bolt to join them together.

    The other advantage of course would be that you have to buy less worktop.

    TBH the join looks good as a square join.
  • leveller2911
    leveller2911 Posts: 8,061 Forumite
    edited 21 August 2009 at 3:59PM
    Hi Paddy,
    I'm a joiner and make kitchens and worktops,I would suggest a square joint ,the reason for this is Timber doesn't shrink in its length,it shrinks in the width.A good example is door architraves, the mitres will always open up more on the inside of the angle than the outside.The same can be said for mitre joints with wooden worktops, although they are probably constructed from many small sections which helsp stability any movement will be noticed more on the inside of the angle...
    With a straight joint the end grain worktop won't shrink at all so effect will be minimal....

    A mitred worktop looks better but theres a far bigger risk of shrinkage being noticed.........Good luck which ever you choose

    Lastly as Cally said her joiner like myself uses worktop connector bolts routered in underneath the worktop and also I use biscuit joints too to help locate the worktop surfaces ,together with that a PU glue it makes a good strong joint with a "machanical fixing " so you not just relying on glue..
  • paddypaws101
    paddypaws101 Posts: 2,093 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    The tops are supplied with sharp square edges, which I am hoping the fitter will round off. Square join seems to be the way to go...anything has to be an improvement on the laminate with metal join I have at present!
    I just hope my builder has not made promises he can't deliver....he boarded and boxed in my loft last year and did a great job at a good price so I asked him about the kitchen. He says he is a carpenter by trade, just got into loft work here in UK. BUT, I know there are carpenters, and carpenters, and joiners etc etc!!!
  • cally1_2
    cally1_2 Posts: 392 Forumite
    My joiner did a pencil edge on my worktop and I am very pleased with it. Mine was also supplied with a square edge. Just used a router to do it I think.
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