advent 7082 help

fwor

Those fuzzy photos are only likely to be useful to someone who has a photographic memory of what the main board of that specific laptop looks like, and where all of the relevant components are.

For the rest of us, we've no clue what we're looking at.

As Taff says, if the numbers just indicate references for each component, these aren't important and if they were missing it should still work.

Generally these boards are multi-layer, so in addition to the tracks that you can see, there are others buried within the board. When manufactured they are "through-plated" to connect all the layers together, and this can be damaged during the sort of repair you're trying.

Assuming that the pin that you are trying to replace passes through the board, can you confirm that you have a clean solder joint on both sides of the board?

Taffybiker

Ok, well pic 3 is almost there. I believe I am seeing two thru holes for the connector, some component designation and a third hole which seems to be charred.
Any part of the board that is charred must be cleaned down to the metal - this is where the screwdriver dodge comes in. Fwor is right in saying that it needs to be clean on both sides of the board. Do not concern yourself about any printing on the board itself, these are mainly to assist manufacture and servicing.
Once the metal (should be copper coloured) is clean, then by all means solder the DC connector in again, taking into account the pic I linked to above and not applying too much solder. It should be just enough to make a good electrical and mechanical connecton.

The possibility still exists that there may have been other damage, but without clear close-ups it is not possible to be certain.

fghfghfgh

thankyou guys.
when i soldier the pin plug i put it under the board then soldier from the top side.
so should i be soldering on both sides?
like put soldier underneath , put plug in and then turn arround and soldier on top side?
theres no copper color on it , board is green and has silver soldier on it ? shout i scrape it off ? then id get the copper one should i be taking the copper color metel off ?
thankyou.

fghfghfgh

ive scratched all of the copper off with a screwdriver. and its left with white now .soldiered the plug and its not working at all.
dont think its recoverable now

Taffybiker wrote: »

Ok, well pic 3 is almost there. I believe I am seeing two thru holes for the connector, some component designation and a third hole which seems to be charred.
Any part of the board that is charred must be cleaned down to the metal - this is where the screwdriver dodge comes in. Fwor is right in saying that it needs to be clean on both sides of the board. Do not concern yourself about any printing on the board itself, these are mainly to assist manufacture and servicing.
Once the metal (should be copper coloured) is clean, then by all means solder the DC connector in again, taking into account the pic I linked to above and not applying too much solder. It should be just enough to make a good electrical and mechanical connecton.

The possibility still exists that there may have been other damage, but without clear close-ups it is not possible to be certain.

Taffybiker

sweety786 wrote: »

ive scratched all of the copper off with a screwdriver. and its left with white now .soldiered the plug and its not working at all.
dont think its recoverable now

Oops. No, you shouldn't take the copper off. It may still be possible to save the board, but it will need an expert hand.