Ford Mondeo Enigine Management Lights ALL On HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

goldspanners

vaio wrote: »

Goldspanners…

Think it through, ABS basically works by looking at individual wheel rotations and turning down the brake pressure to any wheel it sees as not rotating when others are. If a sensor/ring is missing then the electronics don’t know how fast that wheel is rotating. There are three choices, it can assume it is rotating and do nothing to the pressure whilst controlling the pressure to the other wheels normally, it can assume it’s not rotating and turn the pressure down again controlling the other wheels normally, or it can turn the entire ABS system off.

The first two options would result in horribly unbalanced emergency braking so the only sensible solution is to turn the entire system off.

I’d guess the fact that you didn’t notice any difference in the brakes on your car is because you either didn’t have to do any emergency braking or if you did you are wise enough to limit the pedal pressure to avoid locking the wheels.

im sorry to disagree with you vaio, but im still not 100% convinced that the rear wheels would lock up by only applying the service brake if the ABS system was switched off, the fronts could but the rears i doubt. as ive already been proven by doodles superior knowledge,sorry doodles mechanics knowledge i could and may well be wrong.

Sirbendy

bob_a_builder wrote: »

Sorry : going slightly OT

Any specific recomendations, I seem to recall in another thread ( parts of which went missing for no apparent reason) you indicated yours could also prog keys & imob etc - at the time you pointed to ebay, but most (of a sensible price) seemed to be reader only according to the write ups

For a Vauxhall? Mine is Vx only (possibly SAAB too, not sure). It's a plug that goes into the diag socket on one end, and the other end is USB and plugs into my netbook that runs the software that came with it.

It can indeed program/deprogram keys, immobiliser and so on, as well as changing the ecoflex service indicator intervals and resetting the mileage, testing out the instruments and sensors/electronics on the engine/autobox, reading the aircon pressures and any and all fault codes in any of the car systems. I've been using it to log the data on runs to try and track down some fuel knock I've got, and it's localised it to 1 cylinder.

VERY impressed with it. For £40ish, it's probably paid for itself several times now.

jeannieblue

Doodles22 wrote: »

Really GoldSpanners has no ideal on brakes, only those fitted to a unfocus car, see what I did there;)
We can all be childish GoldSpanners

And, you are my mate, I'm nice like that.
I didn't reply to your chaging system comment as I wasn't on and thought I'd give you the benefit of the doubt on it, although I knew it was highly un likely.

You need to some shotting people and commenting on my threads if you don't like my posts :rolleyes:
Either put up or shut up to be honest but please, dont worry I wont be to heartbroken if you don't ever post on my threads again.



vaio we appaer to know alot more about ABS than most on here.
When the light comes on, it means the ABS has shut down, the light isnt there for show:rolleyes:
thanks vaio for your input
Have a lovely week mate



Im not posting anymore on this thread and have requested to MODS it be closed, as I feel GoldSpanners needs to perhaps get off his high horse and start planning how he intends to chnage that headlamp bulb when it goes on his un focus.

GoldSpanners Grow up:T

Cor blimey 'mate' !!

And you tell Goldspanners to grow up? :rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:

Sirbendy

jeannieblue wrote: »

Cor blimey 'mate' !!

And you tell Goldspanners to grow up? :rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:

I feel sorry for "Corbiewood" on page 1. Head gasket or mixture my !!!!. More like electronics issues with the car shutting the gauges down and upsetting the ECU.

Mixture. EFi. Hmm. Not my first thought for a blame call, nor the headgasket. Get it plugged into a code reader and see what it's upset about. Please, PLEASE Doodles..don't give out info like that - expert you are not. Mate. Cars are complex, lots of ECUs, lots of interactions, lots of intelligence...not all SU carbed Mini-coppers or chocolate gasket MGs..;)

Paradigm

Doodles22 wrote: »

Really GoldSpanners has no ideal on brakes, only those fitted to a unfocus car, see what I did there;)
We can all be childish GoldSpanners

And, you are my mate, I'm nice like that.
I didn't reply to your chaging system comment as I wasn't on and thought I'd give you the benefit of the doubt on it, although I knew it was highly un likely.

You need to some shotting people and commenting on my threads if you don't like my posts :rolleyes:
Either put up or shut up to be honest but please, dont worry I wont be to heartbroken if you don't ever post on my threads again.



vaio we appaer to know alot more about ABS than most on here.
When the light comes on, it means the ABS has shut down, the light isnt there for show:rolleyes:
thanks vaio for your input
Have a lovely week mate



Im not posting anymore on this thread and have requested to MODS it be closed, as I feel GoldSpanners needs to perhaps get off his high horse and start planning how he intends to chnage that headlamp bulb when it goes on his un focus.

GoldSpanners Grow up:T

Ain't she a darlin'... makes me chuckle anyway :rotfl:

cyclonebri1

Trying to square this one with myself.

In the pre abs days, front engined frontwheel drive cars cars always had some device to prevent the rear wheels locking first under braking. Some sort of proportioning valve or ball and ramp device that worked on decelaration.

In an earlier post someone suggested, (and I'm not going to read the whole thing again), that abs cars do not use this device. Can anyone confirm this? and if not why not? Surely regardless of abs the tendancy for rears to lock up first under normal conditions of downhill braking still exists?

Or is the abs clever enough to take such things into account?

andygb

Doodles22 wrote: »

But all the lights are on

I am pretty upset about this to be fair

All that money spent and now this, time to get the credit card out now for the garage

When will all this money on this car stop


Two weeks into a new MOT this happens


Worried its going to cost me a arm and a leg

Doodles, I have a 1.8 Verona (2000/2001) model, which I bought about five years ago. It has been a good comfortable car, and is now approaching 90000 miles, and luckily has not cost us very much. I seriously think that if it had cost me thousands, or was looking that way, then I would get rid of it, and buy a newer car for around the £2000 mark, because there are lots to choose from.
It is sad to see cars go, but when they start costing big money, then there are tough decisions to be made, and this is the MSE forum after all.
Good luck,
Andy

vaio

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

Trying to square this one with myself.

In the pre abs days, front engined frontwheel drive cars cars always had some device to prevent the rear wheels locking first under braking. Some sort of proportioning valve or ball and ramp device that worked on decelaration.

In an earlier post someone suggested, (and I'm not going to read the whole thing again), that abs cars do not use this device. Can anyone confirm this? and if not why not? Surely regardless of abs the tendancy for rears to lock up first under normal conditions of downhill braking still exists?

Or is the abs clever enough to take such things into account?

I think…….

When you brake the weight transfers to the front of the car, this makes the back go light and because of reduced contact pressure between tyre and road makes lock up more likely. In the old days (and still on anything with no ABS) there is a load sensing valve which senses this weight transfer and reduces the brake pressure to the rears. Because locked rears tends to result in spins & accidents etc these valves are set on the conservative side (to account for wet roads, worn tyres etc) which means the rears tend not do very much work and so last just about forever.

On cars with ABS actual wheel rotation is measured so the pressure to the rears only needs to be reduced if the wheels are actually locking. This means the rears can do a lot more braking, don’t last as long but make braking distances shorter.

Where it gets interesting (but not in a good way) is on ABS cars (so no load valve) with a fault (so no ABS). On these the only thing that stops the rears locking is the skill of the person pushing the pedal, throw in a whole generation (maybe two) who’ve never driven a car without some sort of auto pressure control and it gets really interesting.

Pew_Pew_Pew_Lasers!

goldspanners wrote: »

how endearing. i doubt if anyone else reads this thread they will think twice before they reply to any of next threads you start.

you had posted after my comment about the alternator therefore you had been here and could have discounted my advise. but you decided to keep quiet until you were confindent it wasnt the alternator.
personally rather than posting on here asking what people might think is wrong with my car i would have got in about it myself and found out what the problem was rather than folk having a guess about a car they have never seen. and even when you knew kwik fit had been under your car you still didnt even check the area out visually.

Hes a child Goldspanners, I wouldn't waste your time trying to help. I did, even after the slagging I got on another post, I diagnosed the fault without even looking at it and didn't get any thanks.

He'll be upside-down in a ditch soon enough, posting about how his insurance company has ripped him off because he didn't declare those mods...

cyclonebri1

vaio wrote: »

I think…….

When you brake the weight transfers to the front of the car, this makes the back go light and because of reduced contact pressure between tyre and road makes lock up more likely. In the old days (and still on anything with no ABS) there is a load sensing valve which senses this weight transfer and reduces the brake pressure to the rears. Because locked rears tends to result in spins & accidents etc these valves are set on the conservative side (to account for wet roads, worn tyres etc) which means the rears tend not do very much work and so last just about forever.

On cars with ABS actual wheel rotation is measured so the pressure to the rears only needs to be reduced if the wheels are actually locking. This means the rears can do a lot more braking, don’t last as long but make braking distances shorter.

Where it gets interesting (but not in a good way) is on ABS cars (so no load valve) with a fault (so no ABS). On these the only thing that stops the rears locking is the skill of the person pushing the pedal, throw in a whole generation (maybe two) who’ve never driven a car without some sort of auto pressure control and it gets really interesting.

Yeah, I kind of see it the same way, just wondered how an abs fitted car achieves this as my last 3 have all had abs and the only times, touch wood, that the abs has operated has been at low speed, downhill and on gravelly roads, and it's always the fronts that skid 1st.

I've run trackday cars, westfields and such like for years with bias bar braking systems so understand the issues of brake balance only too well:rolleyes::rolleyes:,

Cheers