How to cut a hole for my kitchen tap???

jblack_2

wallbash wrote: »

I stand corrected :beer:

Buy a sink from Ikea and you cut the hole
I am amazed . Whats wrong with the old fashioned left/right sinks

We're all one big, happy European family now:D.

KT1985

I mean, which side do I start using th nice shiny holesaw- the laminated top, or the underside?

Thanks for all of your help- I had no idea what to do, plan was to get the plumber back in, but I fancy giving it a go (probably a mistake, but nevermind)

Steve_xx

KT1985 wrote: »

I mean, which side do I start using th nice shiny holesaw- the laminated top, or the underside?

Thanks for all of your help- I had no idea what to do, plan was to get the plumber back in, but I fancy giving it a go (probably a mistake, but nevermind)

Do it from the top if it suits you best. Put some sellotape on the surface so that the holesaw doesn't damage the top if it moves a little.

Also, if it's only laminate/wood you're drilling through then I wouldn't go to the expense of buying a holesaw & arbor. Instead I would buy a flat wood drill bit of the appropriate size. Much cheaper than a holesaw and the job will be done just as effectively. Here's a link to what you need:

http://www.screwfix.com/cats/A337725/Drill-Bits/Wood-Drill-Bits/Flat-Wood-Drill-Bits

jennifernil

I would think twice before putting the tap in the worktop.

Every time you use the tap with wet hands the water will run down the tap onto the worktop. You will be forever wiping it up so the top doesn't get damaged.

Either that or you will have to wrap a cloth round the base of the tap before you use it to catch the drips.

May not sound like a big deal, but do consider it carefully.

fto

You need one of these http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/28512100

You may need a waste from ikea also...........

darich

jblack wrote: »

Like I said, a hole saw;)

http://www.screwfix.com/cats/A337704/Drill-Bits/Holesaws/Holesaws

good shout - i didn't check your link and i didn;t knwo the official name for them!!
:A

ic

Make sure you get the arbour and pilot drill bit to go with the hole saw. The arbour is what attaches the hole saw to your drill, and the pilot guides the hole saw through the wood, ensuring you go in a straight line. Without the pilot bit you are guaranteed to ruin the work top as it spins and scratches all over the place. The hole will need to be just larger than the section of tap that goes through the worktop.

Cut through from the top, clamping some spare wood underneath to prevent the underside from bursting. Using a slow steady speed to drill through - not full blast like normal drilling - the hole saw should come with information on the ideal speed, but probably around 450rpm, rather than the normal full speed of a drill that might be 1300rpm. Pull off occasionally to clear dust and allow the hole saw to cool.

When done be sure to seal the wood within the hole with pva to prevent water penetration.

Kiran

Id seal any exposed edges including the wholes for the sink and tap with a polyeurathane varnish (very hardwearing). Its cheap and would last longer than PVA which is water soluable.

Also, its worth putting masking tape on the worktop before drilling thorugh.

jimbo_the_jetset

Seal exposed woodchip (laminate worktop?) with clear sealant as you do with sink/cooker cut outs. Also drop tap base onto a bead of clear sealant for extra protection.

p.s. I stitch drilled 10mm holes to fit my tap in worktop (about 6 in a circle), hard work but did the job

twinklyrach

We purposely bought a non-drilled IKEA sink because I'm left-handed and find that I need the draining board on the right. The Fixa tool is very easy to use and - I think - cuts the hole to the standard IKEA size. Or at least it did for us and we've got a Bagsvik tap.