Block paving driveway - DIY or Proffessionals ?

chiefgoobster

Trying to convince the Mrs that our dodgy manky crazy-paved driveway needs an update.She might be coming round to having it block paved,but in these current times, the cost is an issue.

I have priced up the approx costs of the blocks and will allow a bit more for drainage channels, maybe put a bit of wiring in for sunken lights etc.

Anybody out there braved the task and had a go themselves ? Was it worth the effort or would you never attempt it again in your life ?

I've seen some dodgy driveways where the sand has sagged over time , so would prefer to opt for cementing each block down.I have good DIY skills but would appreciate any views,good,bad or otherwise.

Thanks

divadee

dont forget you will need planning permission now to have a block paving drive.

its worth getting on to your local planning office and finding out the ins and outs of it.

olias

Haven't had a go myself, but my dad has when he was in his 60's!

Your main problem will be the excavation, as to have sufficient strength for a car (or cars/vans/motor homes - whatever) then you need a pretty deep base foundation, probably 6"-12" so this will take a hell of a lot of digging out and removing of spoil and then refilling with hardcore.

If you have a decent depth of hardcore well whacked down with a whacker plate, then you shouldn't have a problem with sagging. I am not even aware of how you would go about cementing blocks down? Don't think that is a recognised method and would be incredibly time consuming and would be just a likely to 'sag' if you haven't laid a proper base.

I would reccomend getting a DIY book with step by step guide. I think the DIY sheds usually do a 'how to' leaflet as well. Don't just rely on thinking you 'have a good idea' of how it's done!

Olias

Garetha

You will need a machine for compacting the ground before laying the blocks - and then again afterwards. A sort of mini 'steam roller' with a revolving weight to pound the ground.
Finishing the edges needs some thought - including 'cutting' the blocks. I've seen a clever finish of cement and pebbles at the edges which overcame this problem.
If the ground is well prepared and stable you only need sand to bed them in, leaving the ability to allow rain to drain through rather than run off.

There's a Wiki http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Permeable_paving

Good luck!

wallbash

Just counted , I've have done five :rolleyes:
Its not a difficult job, as long as remember some golden rules.
As olias mentioned its the correct foundation.... I always called it a 'wacker' plate
But some one will tell you the correct term.
Sort out your edges and most important is the 'fall' or slope.

Easy sign of a poorly constructed drive, is a puddle :rotfl:

wallbash

When it comes to cutting a block. you can hire a machine. OR
Use an angle grinder to cut a groove, then a sharp blow with a bolster and a club hammer.

Kiran

divadee wrote: »

dont forget you will need planning permission now to have a block paving drive.

its worth getting on to your local planning office and finding out the ins and outs of it.

Block paving is counted as a porous surface. You don't need planning permission as you do with tarmac. It is deemed that water can drain through it/the joints. Planning may be required if you live in a conservation area etc.

The job is relatively simple providing you have the correct tools at your disposal. As mentioned above the use of a forward reverse whacker plate will give you a proper base.

Also get some teram under your base to stop any weeds growing through the gaps.

For some really good advice on paving have a look at www.pavingexpert.com

Cavan28

Some good advice on here.

12" foundation is overkill though. 3-4 inches of type one or hardcore then 2" of Sharp sand is plenty. As everyone has said make sure you use a wacker palte and give it a good beating before you start laying.

Making sure you have the sub-base and the levels right before you start laying the blocks will make the job much easier. When you start putting them down make sure you put them as close together as possibel with no gaps. Also if the drive is slopped start at the bottom and lay 'up' the slope. This makes sure they all stay tight and dont slide down the hill which will cause you murders with the pattern!!!

When its all done brush in with kiln dried sand and dont by shy with it either! leave some excess on the top and then run the wacker over it again to shake it in the cracks. Also any excess will be washed down by the rain.

Hope this helps! Good luck!

olias

The 6-12" base would be dependant on what OP is parking on it. Some people have work vans/lorries/large campervans etc which could be up to 7.5 tons. I agree, if you only intend to park a motorbike or a small car on it, then obviously the foundations need not be as deep.

A google search will come up with what base is needed for what load.

Olias

securityman

All you need to know
http://www.pavingexpert.com/
Has a good forum if you need help aswell.

Johnhowell

Kiran wrote: »

Block paving is counted as a porous surface. You don't need planning permission as you do with tarmac.

Porous Block Paving by Marshalls is a recent modification of standard block paving units. The gap is wider and filled with small size gravel rather than sand. The difference is obvious because the old block paving is clean, whereas the porous area is covered with stone scatter - not good for motorcycles or cyclists.

If the OP is replacing an existing paved area (as discribed) with block paving and not increasing the drained area by a certain percentage, then planning would not be an issue. Also, Planning Permission is not required if the receiving road is a Private Road or none of the run off goes into foul or public maintain sewer system.

OP - I would strongly recommend to provide very good edge restraint - the standard block paving kerb units are not enough. They are only 100mm wide and if hit by a car can break the concrete behind, the kerb unit moves and then the blocks become lose. I would suggest getting longer edging pieces - EF150, 915mm long with concrete bedding and backing. However, these are only available in straights. I do not think they look (IMHO) good when cut in half to create a curve.

I would like block paving but my partner does not - we are considering bonded gravel, but can not find the type of tack coat to use. We will have some slot drains and pipe to soakways.

Good luck,
John