Double Glazing - trickle vents as standard?

intel

djohn2002uk wrote:

Last comment:

So it's ok for you to post sarcastic remarks?
And I'll refrain from any more at the risk of you changing names or leaving again.

Thank god for that now just go away pleb.

williams55

Would you believe it . I was just about to make a new post when i saw this one . Ive recently (3mths) moved into a property which has hardwood double glazing . I didnt notice at first but the glazing is really shot . In between the glass is all misted up and stained with water . Qustion is i paid £500 to have a all singing survey done on the house and the survey says " the glazing appears to be in good condition " . There is a disclaimer on the survey to cover themselfs but is worth me pursueing with the survey company . Oh and would it be cheaper to replace the glazing as the frames are good or should i be looking at ripping it out and replacing with pvc .
thanks in advance
williams

Nile

Members will have differing opinions from time to time but please remember to be nice to other MoneySavers.

intel

williams55 wrote:

Would you believe it . I was just about to make a new post when i saw this one . Ive recently (3mths) moved into a property which has hardwood double glazing . I didnt notice at first but the glazing is really shot . In between the glass is all misted up and stained with water . Qustion is i paid £500 to have a all singing survey done on the house and the survey says " the glazing appears to be in good condition " . There is a disclaimer on the survey to cover themselfs but is worth me pursueing with the survey company . Oh and would it be cheaper to replace the glazing as the frames are good or should i be looking at ripping it out and replacing with pvc .
thanks in advance
williams

Basically if the Wood is still sound and not rotten you can ofcourse have just new units fitted at a much cheaper cost and its not a big deal to do.

We call this a hackout its just a case of removing the old beads or putty
and then using some Butyl mastik to reseat the glass into then replace beading then use some low modulus silicone to water proof/tight the seal.

It looks a really nice job when finished, if the wood is rotten
I would think anout UPVC frames as a different option with argon filled
4/20/4 units for max effieciency.

williams55

If i could quiz your knowledge a little more please . Given that misting and staining is occuring , i assume that the seal between the glass is shot . Now is this likely to have a effect on sound reduction . Im getting a lot of road noise in the house and would have thought that double glazing would have done away with this . Tha argon you talk about does it have good sound reduction . I would like to keep the hardwood frames and just replace the glass but theres no vents on the frames so am i likely to be looking at misting again 6 mths after a refit .
cheers
williams

intel

williams55 wrote:

If i could quiz your knowledge a little more please . Given that misting and staining is occuring , i assume that the seal between the glass is shot . Now is this likely to have a effect on sound reduction . Im getting a lot of road noise in the house and would have thought that double glazing would have done away with this . Tha argon you talk about does it have good sound reduction . I would like to keep the hardwood frames and just replace the glass but theres no vents on the frames so am i likely to be looking at misting again 6 mths after a refit .
cheers
williams

Ok, Misting is caused by the seal inbetween the glass breaking down due to the fact that the glass that is in their may not be on spacers so it is sat directly on the frame so water cant run off.

Argon filled units just reflect heat back into the room they have no sound proofing qualities.

Sound proofing, you want to get a thicker glass like laminate, Laminate is 6.4mm in thickness ordinary glass is 4mm thick toughened or "float"
what you want is stuff thick enough to work but the only problem is that the existing frames may only take a unit of 4/6/4 now for sound reduction I would reccomend 6.4 or 6mm Toughened where nessecary, so you may have to get new frames anyway so you can have units of 6.4/14/4 get my drift?


6.4 of laminate glass, witha 14mm air gap and 4mm glass again so a unit of 24.4 in width total if my sums are correct.

williams55

Thanks for the advice . Good stuff there for me to look into .
cheers
williams

intel

williams55 wrote:

Thanks for the advice . Good stuff there for me to look into .
cheers
williams

No worries glad to help

virgin_moneysaver

thanx to everybody for their time & input - it was replacement windows as the DG in this house we've moved into last year has been in for about 15 - 20 years & the three we had replaced had no means of ventilation, they were fixed panes. Its just the one new window on the landing very often has moisture running on the inside (I expect its because its situated adjacent to the bathroom door) & I wondered if a trickle vent would have solved this & whether they should have been fitted as standard, the DG guy didn't mention them. As we are renovating this house & having an extension built this spring, we will be having new & replacement windows & doors as we go along & I'll have to consider where I need the TV's & where I can go without

lo_jo

Trickle vents will cost alittle more if included in the windows (around £25) and are a good idea if you dont have any or want to control the ventilation in the room. In a project under building control such as an extension that is being built you must have ventilation. It does not have to be by means of trickle vent although it is a good option.