Kitchen Worktop - how to fit?!

travel_freak

Hi,

We're attempting to fit our own kitchen and worktop. Units are in place but we'd welcome some help on the worktop.

Firstly, should we tile first, or put the worktop first and then tile?

There are a few areas of slight unevenness in the units, how can we best ensure the worksurface ends up level?!

We have one long stretch of units with two shorter returns so it is kind of a U shape. We're not sure whether to cut in the long section first and then join up the two shorter sides to this or vice versa?

Any general tips for two fairly hopeless kitchen fitters would be most welcome...

Many thanks in advance.

Inactive

1). Worktop first, tiles 2nd.

2). Units need to be perfectly level, adjust accordingly to get them level.

3). Usually fit the long length of worktop first.

jennifernil

Keep any joins as far from the sink as possible.

travel_freak

Hi,

Many thanks for the replies.

Re getting everything level - I think the floor levels and wall levels are all completely unlevel which has made putting the units in such hard work. They are more or less level but try as we have we can't seem to get everything spot on.

I thought you could get something to put under the worksurface in places to fix this?

Also (dim question again) does the worksurface just rest directly on top of the units themselves or should we be putting in wooden battens to support them?

If directly on top of unit then how are they screwed in because with the backs on the units we can't get access behind to screw them at the back?

Sorry, I know these are dim questions but never done this before....

ic

Are you planning to do seamless joints, or are you using the metal joint strips?

Keep joins away from any cuts in the worktop - so away from the sink and away from the hob.

The seamless joints are very difficult to achieve, and will need you to hire/buy equipment. Myself and my dad are competent DIYers, and we screwed it up the first time, meaning I had to buy replacement tops and rehiring the equipment. I'd recommend you get a fitter in for this job if its what you're after.

As said above your units should all be perfectly level. You should be able to put a spirit level anywhere, including across units (you should have a long spirit level for this job - say 1m long) and see everything is level. If not, loosen from the wall and adjust the legs to push the units up/down. If tightening to the wall causes the units to move, then use wedges at the back to keep them away from the wall.

Inactive

travel_freak wrote: »

Hi,

Many thanks for the replies.

Re getting everything level - I think the floor levels and wall levels are all completely unlevel which has made putting the units in such hard work. They are more or less level but try as we have we can't seem to get everything spot on.

I thought you could get something to put under the worksurface in places to fix this?

...

You need to get them perfectly level ( and perfectly vertical,) as I stated before, the fact that the walls and floors are out, doesn't make any difference. If you cannot get them level, you need to get some help.

Worktops rest directly on top of the units.

Wickes have some useful free help guide leaflets. if you are unsure of anything.

jennifernil

For fixing the tops in place use either triangular brackets fixed into the corners of every second cupboard, or L-shaped ones screwed to the sides of the units back and front. Once the worktop is suitably placed, screw through the brackets up into the worktop. Have your OH sit on the top to hold it down while doing this, and check your screws are not too long.`

It is essential that the units are level and lined up properly, the doors will be out of alignment otherwise. Have you fixed adjacent units to each other? This helps to get them level. There are special screw fittings for this purpose, clamp together the units you are fixing together first and make sure they are precisely lined up before securing.

If your floor and/or walls are out of true , getting it right is not easy, but it is essential for a good finish.

Steve_the_fitter

Inactive is definatily right about getting them level. It all has a knock on effect and the doors will not fit with the same gaps all round (will look wonky) and then there is no point in fitting it yourself cause guaranteed you will not be happy with the job and as soon as you can afford a new kitchen say 3 years down the line you will and not only will you be paying to get it fitted you will be getting a new kitchen so time spent now in doing it right really could save you thousands in years to come. Even if you have to take the units back out and spend another day doing them it will be a day well spent even though it will be really annoying.
The best way to level a unit.

1. Draw a datum line where u want the top of ur base units to go. normally 870mm high
2. higher or lower the back legs til the top of cabinet is touching the line. then level acroos just to make sure the datum line is correct.
3. put 600 level from front to back of cabinet and level accordingly.

once you have leveled 3 sides of the cabinet put the level on the front and if you have done this right it should already be level.

As for the worktops. id say get someone in. Cant see a u shaped kitchen costing more that 270 so could be money well spent as the fitter will be able to advice you on a few things while he is there. So not only will you get a professional look to the worktops you will also pick a few tips up on allining the doors for example. also he will make sure the cabinets a vertically straight as he will have to screw them into the worktop

Scoobs72

As everyone says, you have got to get the units perfectly level. It can be hard work sometimes, but it is an absolute must. Also you mention that the walls are uneven (normally are). You need to make sure that all the units line up at the front, which may mean you need to scribe the voids at the back of the units (assuming they have voids) depending on both the vertical evenness of the walls as well as the horizontal. You don't want to end up in a situation where you have a 600mm worktop and the units stick out. It's complex to describe, (probably because it's complex to do!) but hopefully you get the idea. Oh, and don't forget that if you have to scribe the backs of the units, make sure you don't scribe so much that integrated appliances will no longer fit.
Finally, given that you're having difficulty with this part, and the c0ck-up potential associated, I'd suggest getting somebody in.