VW golf V6 dead as a dodo - anyone help?

hewhoisnotintheknow

(Land_of)_Maz wrote: »

VW's are a pain for electrics... we've known cars with similar faults! seems if you get a dodgy one then it's prone to problems, yet others will be fault free for years...

this V6 also recently developed a problem with the boot, totally locked solid, haven't been in my boot since october!! lol!

Also temp gauge can read -45degrees for a while and then beep and revert to correct air temp outside... very wierd...

Other niggles like trims that are loose or come off when you pull them not very hard, permanent air bag fault on display,checked out by garage, diagnostics reset and just came back again....

i think if you get a wrong un, it just gets to you, and all sorts of craappy unrelated niggles come up!

This is my first Mk4, had 2-3 mark3's and never had these kinda problems, i just think this Mk4 isn't as well finished or as sturdy..

but yet people still think they are good cars

come low for relability considering the hype around them

Inactive

lovethymini wrote: »

Also, aren't the tolerances on engine parts much greater when the engine is cold, therefore, driving on a cold engine is likely to cause premature wear.

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Your engine will get to working temperature far more quickly by driving off ASAP, allowing it to stand ticking over will cause premature wear, simply because it is running cool/cold for longer.

TiTheRev

hewhoisnotintheknow wrote: »

but yet people still think they are good cars

come low for relability considering the hype around them

Stop infesting everyone with your yeast of hatred for VW

TiTheRev

(Land_of)_Maz wrote: »

VW's are a pain for electrics... we've known cars with similar faults! seems if you get a dodgy one then it's prone to problems, yet others will be fault free for years....

They are far from common for electrical faults, I work for a VW dealer and other than coil packs on the Mk4 they are quite sturdy electrically

(Land_of)_Maz wrote:

this V6 also recently developed a problem with the boot, totally locked solid, haven't been in my boot since october!! lol!.

Probably the rear washer leaking and seized the boot lock.

(Land_of)_Maz wrote:

Also temp gauge can read -45degrees for a while and then beep and revert to correct air temp outside... very wierd....

Could be related to your other electrical problems? Not heard of this issue before.

(Land_of)_Maz wrote:

Other niggles like trims that are loose or come off when you pull them not very hard, permanent air bag fault on display,checked out by garage, diagnostics reset and just came back again.....

The air bag light on the dash will be a loose connection on the passenger side (either under the seat or in the b-pillar), just needs cleaning and reconnecting.

(Land_of)_Maz wrote:

i think if you get a wrong un, it just gets to you, and all sorts of unrelated niggles come up!

This is my first Mk4, had 2-3 mark3's and never had these kinda problems, i just think this Mk4 isn't as well finished or as sturdy..

The only other thing I can think of is maybe it's got a water leak that's got into the electrics? Does the car have a sunroof? If a cars not cleaned often enough the water run offs can get clogged and back the water into the car from behind the dash...into all the electrics there. It has been known a couple of times, but is not a common problem & hasnt actually caused electrical faults before, but may have in your case?

MiserlyMartin

Inactive wrote: »

Your engine will get to working temperature far more quickly by driving off ASAP, allowing it to stand ticking over will cause premature wear, simply because it is running cool/cold for longer.

Yes especially if the heater is on full blast taking that heat away from the engine while its running stationary.

Broadwood

My son, a technician at a VW main dealers, specialises in fault diagnostics so I'll pick his brains next time I speak to him.

As regards warming up an engine, I've always been lead to believe that it's best to drive away gently immediately (visibility permitting) with a petrol engine, but that with a diesel it is preferable to let it idle for a short while especially in very cold weather. But I stand to be corrected.

thescouselander

I dont buy this theory about extra engine wear of you leave the car ticking over. Your temperature gauge indicates the temperature of the water in the cooling system, not the oil. Even if the engine temperature appears be normal the oil temperature could be far from operating temperature. In fact, it probably takes in excess of 10 miles to get the oil up to operating temperature. Many people drive less than this to get to work so most of the time their cars are driving round with cold oil in them. Any additional wear due to leaving the engine on idle is going to be negligible.

I was always lead to believe that the main reason for driving off immediately was that it reduced emissions.

Broadwood

Must disagree about the oil getting up to temperature. Engines are designed with oil sumps containing just enough oil to do the circulation job plus the difference between minimum and maximum levels as a reserve to allow for use between top-ups. So your average medium sized modern engine probably contains between 4 and 5 litres of oil in total, which will heat up at least as quickly as the water in the cooling system and reach a higher temperature than the water. The circulating oil is acting as a coolant in the same way as the circulating water cooling system, and also has its own radiator in high performance engines. Also the sump is acting as a heat radiator for the oil to some extent. For the engine to operate efficiently and with maximum protection from wear, the oil needs to get up to within its normal temperature range quickly hence the requirement for a thermostat in the cooling system.

I do agree that reducing harmful emissions is one good reason to drive away promptly after starting an engine, another one being not to waste expensive fuel. A cold engine obviously uses more fuel when ticking over than does an engine which is at normal operating temperature, due to a much richer mixture and a faster idle speed.

pianeet

i was talking to a trader today and he was having real problems with a customers golf and by all accounts vw have finally admited(dont know if titherev can back this up) they have a problem with a batch of golfs immobilisers that are faulty when the temperature reaches -2 degrees.

thescouselander

Broadwood wrote: »

Must disagree about the oil getting up to temperature. Engines are designed with oil sumps containing just enough oil to do the circulation job plus the difference between minimum and maximum levels as a reserve to allow for use between top-ups. So your average medium sized modern engine probably contains between 4 and 5 litres of oil in total, which will heat up at least as quickly as the water in the cooling system and reach a higher temperature than the water. The circulating oil is acting as a coolant in the same way as the circulating water cooling system, and also has its own radiator in high performance engines. Also the sump is acting as a heat radiator for the oil to some extent. For the engine to operate efficiently and with maximum protection from wear, the oil needs to get up to within its normal temperature range quickly hence the requirement for a thermostat in the cooling system.

I do agree that reducing harmful emissions is one good reason to drive away promptly after starting an engine, another one being not to waste expensive fuel. A cold engine obviously uses more fuel when ticking over than does an engine which is at normal operating temperature, due to a much richer mixture and a faster idle speed.

Yes, the oil does act as a coolant but I know for a fact the engine oil takes a lot longer to heat up. I've known a couple of people who have had oil temperature gauges fitted to their cars and the oil temp always went up much slower that the coolant temperature. Also, when changing the engine oil I tend to heat the engine up first by taking it for a short drive. Many times the temperature gauge has indicated normal operating temperature but the oil has only been lukewarm. This has been the case on every car I've owned.