Car advice - flat battery?

Ephemera

goldspanners wrote: »

sorry keith, the only sure way to test a battery is with a battery load tester. this will tell you a lot more about the state of your battery than a multi meter.

I'll agree with that. Your local Kwik-Fit or Autocentre might do a test for free ...after you've charged the battery tho!!

goldspanners

not always keith, a load tester will identify a knackered battery very quickly and easily with absoloutly no doubt.
i used to rely on my meter for diagnosing suspect batteries but it took so long to check to have no doubt in your mind about it.
i got a load tester for £35 from draper and ever since then ive never worried about falsly diagnosing a dud battery. worth its weight in gold.

The_Suffolk_Ram

Hi

i had the same problem with my jeep, got in it one day, all my lights worked but engine would not turn over. called out the AA who jumped it and got it running.

We left it running for a while (5 minutes) and then switched it off. he then disconnected the fuel pump and got me to turn the engine. after a matter of seconed you could here the motor struggling and starting to slow down. he then told me that an ok battery would be able to turn the engine for 30 seconed (he might of said minute, not sure) without any problem. so he diagnosed the problem as a knacked battery.

he did also use a tester, but that was not giving him clear enough readings. dont know if this trick is any good for you, also mine was a dieasle not pertol so dont know if it would work (cant see why not).

luckly the battery was still in warrenity so just went and got a new one. it failed due to it having a faulty relay during the summer which drained it three times, so low we could not even jump it. one cold night a few months later finally killed it off.

goldspanners

The_Suffolk_Ram wrote: »

Hi

i had the same problem with my jeep, got in it one day, all my lights worked but engine would not turn over. called out the AA who jumped it and got it running.

We left it running for a while (5 minutes) and then switched it off. he then disconnected the fuel pump and got me to turn the engine. after a matter of seconed you could here the motor struggling and starting to slow down. he then told me that an ok battery would be able to turn the engine for 30 seconed (he might of said minute, not sure) without any problem. so he diagnosed the problem as a knacked battery.

he did also use a tester, but that was not giving him clear enough readings. dont know if this trick is any good for you, also mine was a dieasle not pertol so dont know if it would work (cant see why not).

luckly the battery was still in warrenity so just went and got a new one. it failed due to it having a faulty relay during the summer which drained it three times, so low we could not even jump it. one cold night a few months later finally killed it off.

it will give an indication but i need a precise way to diagnose a battery easliy and quickly,i do it very often,the manufacturer of the machines i work on recommend the batteries will only last 6-8 months under normal conditions.

gilbert_and_sullivan

goldspanners wrote: »

it will give an indication but i need a precise way to diagnose a battery easliy and quickly,i do it very often,the manufacturer of the machines i work on recommend the batteries will only last 6-8 months under normal conditions.

I had a recent case of battery failure Goldspanners, very surprising too.

My trusty old MB 124 had a new Bosch silver battery on 16ish months ago, i bought the highest capacity as always that would fit in the holder, a clicking sound is of no use to me at 4am.

About a month ago my newish battery failed with no warning, now i hope bosch haven't gone downhill as thats the first time a bosch has failed to my knowledge, perhaps you are more in the know about that?

Well i luckily had kept the receipt/warranty and took it back to GSF, who used a small led tester on it, which the chap assured me pronounced the battery dead as against flat but otherwise ok.

I don't know what this tester (mobile phone size) was, but would you agree that it would be capable of this accurate a diagnosis.

Anyway to be fair GSF replaced the battery without question, and normal reliable service has resumed.

I just wondered what your views might be.

jeannieblue

If it is just making a clicking noise - could be the starter motor. Check battery first and take it from there.

Wig

The_Suffolk_Ram wrote: »

Hi

i had the same problem with my jeep, got in it one day, all my lights worked but engine would not turn over. called out the AA who jumped it and got it running.

We left it running for a while (5 minutes) and then switched it off. he then disconnected the fuel pump and got me to turn the engine. after a matter of seconed you could here the motor struggling and starting to slow down. he then told me that an ok battery would be able to turn the engine for 30 seconed (he might of said minute, not sure) without any problem. so he diagnosed the problem as a knacked battery.

he did also use a tester, but that was not giving him clear enough readings. dont know if this trick is any good for you, also mine was a dieasle not pertol so dont know if it would work (cant see why not).

luckly the battery was still in warrenity so just went and got a new one. it failed due to it having a faulty relay during the summer which drained it three times, so low we could not even jump it. one cold night a few months later finally killed it off.

I wonder if the AA man was going to sell you a battery beofre you said "it's in warranty and I'll go get it exchanged"?

I wouldn't expect a good (but drained) battery to be suddenly full of beans after only a five minute tick over charge.

To OP,
Ask around for someone with a set of jump leads. Have the good car revving it's engine strongly while starting yours.
Connect the red leads between the the 2 battery postive terminals
Connect the Black lead from the good battery's negative terminal, clip the other end onto a metal part of your dead cars engine, somewhere away from the battery. This lead is the last point to be connected. Connect it to a part of the engine that does not move, and make sure the lead is not dangling into the engine compartment. make sure the cars are not touching each other.

When started, release the revs on the good car, to idle speed, and disconnect in reverse order. Then go for a drive, the longer the better, if you go shopping, I'd have someone remain in the car and not switch it off, then drive home, and switch it off.

Buy yourself a charger from somewhere. When charging the car, best to undo the battery terminals before/during charging, and make sure you know your radio codes and how to input them.

Should be fine.

goldspanners

gilbert_and_sullivan wrote: »

I had a recent case of battery failure Goldspanners, very surprising too.

My trusty old MB 124 had a new Bosch silver battery on 16ish months ago, i bought the highest capacity as always that would fit in the holder, a clicking sound is of no use to me at 4am.

About a month ago my newish battery failed with no warning, now i hope bosch haven't gone downhill as thats the first time a bosch has failed to my knowledge, perhaps you are more in the know about that?

Well i luckily had kept the receipt/warranty and took it back to GSF, who used a small led tester on it, which the chap assured me pronounced the battery dead as against flat but otherwise ok.

I don't know what this tester (mobile phone size) was, but would you agree that it would be capable of this accurate a diagnosis.

Anyway to be fair GSF replaced the battery without question, and normal reliable service has resumed.

I just wondered what your views might be.

yes even good bosch batteries do fail,i replaced a set before i finished up for christmas.
i use an older style (cheaper) analogue load tester,it gives me enough info to diagnose easily and accurately.
the tester gsf would have used will have been a digital load tester,much more expensive than my draper analogue tester but does the same job. i think the battery companies give most motor factors them free or greatly reduced to help shift more batteries.but they do the same job and would rely on its diagnosis.