fixing kitchen units to partially stud walls

big_ging

hello all, ive been flicking through the forums for a while getting tips on doing up my house and have found most things ive been looking for, however not this one.

basically im in the middle of doing the kitchen and ive put 25mm x 38mm batons from ceiling to floor at 600mm centres directly onto the brick wall on one side of the kitchen, i havent plaster boarded it yet as i want to know whats the best way to hang my wall units for my new kitchen. would it be ok to drill straight through the plaster (when its done) and into the brick then insert a 100mm rawplug and hang them that way. or should i put cross batons at the estimated height the units will go.

sorry if its a bit vague, thanks

dave

ormus

as long as the studs are fixed to the wall ok, then fixing the units to the wood will be fine.
make sure you measure correctly for height etc...and remember to mark the lines on the PB.

andrew-b

Do you need to plasterboard behind the units? You could attach the units to the batons first (padding out by the thickness of plasterboard) and then plasterboard upto them after. That way if your batons are in the wrong place you can always add a few extra noggins in. If your tiling from worktop to wall unit you could tile straight off the plasterboard without the need to plaster that area first.

Andy

Kiran

ormus wrote: »

as long as the studs are fixed to the wall ok, then fixing the units to the wood will be fine.
make sure you measure correctly for height etc...and remember to mark the lines on the PB.

This is definitely the better solution if you have to put a stud frame up. If you use long plugs into a brickwork wall and the units aren't butted up tight to the wall its going to subject the fixing to abnormal shear loads, they will probably bend and pull your cupboards out of line or worst case shear off completely and cause the units to fall off.

big_ging

thanks for the replies

ive got my sparky coming on saturday to change the consumer unit and add some extra sockets and stuff, i was gonna wait til he'd done his job and then plasterboard the whole wall and ceiling ready for plastering the following saturday so i was just gonna have a blank canvas so to speak and work from there.

i like the idea of not plasterboarding behing the units, might make it a bit easier to add extra batons if needed. would the 100mm rawplugs not work then.

dave

big_ging

Kiran wrote: »

This is definitely the better solution if you have to put a stud frame up. If you use long plugs into a brickwork wall and the units aren't butted up tight to the wall its going to subject the fixing to abnormal shear loads, they will probably bend and pull your cupboards out of line or worst case shear off completely and cause the units to fall off.

thats what i was thinking, i didnt know if the plugs would have a proper grip onto the brick wall so i wasnt sure. would it be better to have the cross batons where i would be hanging the units then to give more rigidity (if thats a word) .

Kiran

It would make life earier for you fitting the units if you have the 600mm spacing for the vertical studs ans then cross members (noggins to you and me) running all the way round where your units are going to be hung. As long as the noggins are fixed nice and secure the cupboards are going nowhere.

Im a little confused as to why you need to put the plasterboard up in the first place? You can't beat a solid wall to fix your units too, so if it due to the amount of making good required I'd be sure that its what you want to do before going ahead. If its for something completely different then fair enough.

Good luck

big_ging

Kiran wrote: »

It would make life earier for you fitting the units if you have the 600mm spacing for the vertical studs ans then cross members (noggins to you and me) running all the way round where your units are going to be hung. As long as the noggins are fixed nice and secure the cupboards are going nowhere.

Im a little confused as to why you need to put the plasterboard up in the first place? You can't beat a solid wall to fix your units too, so if it due to the amount of making good required I'd be sure that its what you want to do before going ahead. If its for something completely different then fair enough.

Good luck

thanks, ill add some "noggins" then. im doing it because its the wall where ALL the services come into the house and would be good to hide the pipework and cables rather than boxing everything in and losing worktop space.

i wasnt originally going to do it like that but once id started i just stood and looked at it all and thought "**** i dont think i can do this on my own". but then i seen that this is the way my neighbour did it and it just looked a lot easier than what i was planning to do. it may not be the best way but i'm finding it a lot less overwhelming.

dave

macka0

Where the wall cupboards are going to be ,instead of using plasterboard use the same thickness ply and screw the wall units to that

27col

I was going to suggest not boarding behind the wall cupboards as andrew-b suggests. I would add that it would not really be any need to pad the battens out with plaster board. The fact that the cupboards were slightly recessed would not matter at all. The important thing is to have really strong fixings. The weight of a cupboard full of crockery can be very large. In fact you could sit each cupboard on a batten, which would seriously reduce the suspended load on the cupboard top fixings.