Bleeding Radiators

Steve_xx

If it gets hot at the bottom there must be some through flow of water, otherwise it would all remain cold. When you open the bleed valve can you hear the air hissing as it comes out of the valve? If you can hear it then it means that not all of the air has been expelled.

karenw

Canucklehead wrote: »

karenw wrote: »

Was just asking as some guides only give you rough ideas and i didn't want to make the problem worse.

C'mon i'm a woman humor me :rotfl::D[/:quote]

Good morning: And.....






so am I ...did you view the 'guide',watch the video and sort the problem?

Canucklehead

lol

Well was about to watch the video tonight then i noticed a leak from the boiler and got out an emergency plumber out and it's seems my boiler has had it :mad: so seems this is worse than i first thought :eek:

littlereddevil

Steve_xx wrote: »

If it gets hot at the bottom there must be some through flow of water, otherwise it would all remain cold. When you open the bleed valve can you hear the air hissing as it comes out of the valve? If you can hear it then it means that not all of the air has been expelled.

No there is no air hissing when I open the valve ( which does open) and no water comes out either !

oldone_2

littlereddevil wrote: »

No there is no air hissing when I open the valve ( which does open) and no water comes out either !

Switch your heating off so it is not pumping water round, and then try bleeding the radiator.

Broadsword

Sometimes a bleed valve appears open but it's not open enough even though there's a (slight) hiss.It can take for ever to bleed when this happens I usually speed it up by carefully removing the screw in part of the valve when the system is hot and running. Practice your dexterity at removing and re-inserting the screw in part with the heating off so you can screw it back in for real when you do it with the heating on and running really warm (turn up thermostat).The hiss should increase a lot when the system is running and the "core" removed!. Keep your hand on the previously cold radiator about two thirds up and as it gets warm to the touch screw the valve partially back in - still hissing- and in a few seconds water should bleed out. Hold an old towel to catch the flow Close it off then

This should all be done with the radiator valve fully open and the lockshield valve- usually not adjusted- should also be at its normal setting. As a rough guide remove the plastic cap of the lockshield valve and with a pair of pliers close it down and count the full turns to close. Easy to count if you turn it half a turn at a time before repositioning the pliers. It is likely to be 2-5 full turns to close. Assuming it is within this parameter open it back up to the previous setting (same number of turns). If you found it closed (not 2-5 turns) then open it say 3 full turns. This is a rough and ready way of "balancing" the radiator. For better information see

http://www.diydata.com/projects/centralheating/balancing/radiator_balancing.php

[Deleted User]

karenw wrote: »

Was just asking as some guides only give you rough ideas and i didn't want to make the problem worse.

C'mon i'm a woman humor me :rotfl::D

I am a woman too

I am sorry the problem turned out to be with the boiler, I bet that will cost you a lot of money.

karenw

Van1971 wrote: »

I am a woman too

I am sorry the problem turned out to be with the boiler, I bet that will cost you a lot of money.

Looks like i need a new boiler but i'm gonna get some help from warm front so hopefully won't cost much.

karenw

Had the boiler guy out he said my radiators might need flushing what does that mean

Steve_xx

Over time the radiators may get a lot of sludge in them and this prevents the easy movement of the water through them. This sludge comes from the insides of the radiators, ie debris and rust etc. The engineers use a high powered hoover in reverse to blow through the system and this hopefully removes all of the sludge and debris from the system.