Drilling hole through 12mm steel

smartpicture

To be honest, I would have given up long before now, but once you've started you can't really just leave a 13mm hole in the door, can you?

withabix

smartpicture wrote: »

I've been trying to drill through 6.5cm wirth of UPVC door for three days now, which I was told was a thin layer of plastic over aluminium, and I'm struggling.

I need a 13mm hole, and bought a HSS super-strength drillbit from B&Q. However, I've now resorted to using ordinary metal drill bits from size 4 upwards, gradually increasing the size of the hole bit by bit. I've managed to get about half-way through so far, but it's been a struggle. Is this a lost cause, or something only burly muscle-bound types should attempt?

This sounds to me like you're drilling through the locking mechanism or the brackets inside the corners of the frame, which are stainless or sherardised steel usually.

It also sounds like you've blunted all your drill bits too.

smartpicture

How far should the locking mechanism extend into the door? I've left around 5cm before my drillhole, I thought that would be enough. I'm not near a corner so hopefully not near a frame. If it was one of these problems, would I still be able to drill through it (eventually)?

Ever had one of those 5-minute jobs you wish you'd never started??

Steve_xx

withabix wrote: »

This sounds to me like you're drilling through the locking mechanism or the brackets inside the corners of the frame, which are stainless or sherardised steel usually.

It also sounds like you've blunted all your drill bits too.

"sheradise" - what does it mean?

lagi

Rain has stopped play today, probably going to go about 12/14mm depending on how it goes. The guy who delivered it said put water on it, i think your oil will feel safer as i shall be using electric drill.

Got to make sure later that i have some metal drill bits, various sizes.

Clive_Woody

I recently purchased an SDS Drill and was very pleased with it, far more powerful than my old Bosch hammer drill. I have not tried drilling through metal, but when using it with the chisel function it cut through bricks like a hot knife through butter, fantatstic toy. I got mine from Screw Fix, less than £40, but seems to be well put together and a very useful bit of kit.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/58494/Power-Tools/SDS-Drills/Direct-Power-BS26S3-5kg-SDS-Plus-Drill

Perhaps somebody with a bit more DIY knowledge could comment whether something like this might be a good idea.

Vibrant

SDS drills are great, I had a play with my brothers a while back and the hammer only feature could be really useful. But the enhanced hammer action is designed purely for masonry and they are no better than a standard drill for use with metal.

Smartpicure, 3 in 1 oil would be fine, or engine, or cooking oil, WD40 is a bit to thin and boils off quickly.

Lagi, You can use water to lubricate and cool the bit, but oil is better. Takes me back to my youth, we used to spit on the bits.................

dantiatto

Clive_Woody wrote: »

I recently purchased an SDS Drill and was very pleased with it, far more powerful than my old Bosch hammer drill. I have not tried drilling through metal, but when using it with the chisel function it cut through bricks like a hot knife through butter, fantatstic toy. I got mine from Screw Fix, less than £40, but seems to be well put together and a very useful bit of kit.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/58494/Power-Tools/SDS-Drills/Direct-Power-BS26S3-5kg-SDS-Plus-Drill

Perhaps somebody with a bit more DIY knowledge could comment whether something like this might be a good idea.

you don't want to be using hammer action when cutting steel, but you need a drill with a bit of grunt so forget about using cheap battery drills, it's an exercise in futility.
as many have already said lubrication is the way to go, and lower revs; wd40 is fine for this purpose, but rocol produce aerosol cutting fluids that are ideal. if the drill gets too hot it will lose its cutting edge requiring sharpening, and potentially can "work harden" the steel you're trying to cut making the situation worse.

anyone who's interested, when constructing using RSJs and bolting them together requiring lots of drilling, I'd recommend hiring a 'mag drill' from a tool hire shop, makes life much easier! I've nearly broken my wrist more than a few times trying to use pistol drills for this purpose...

wallbash

when constructing using RSJs and bolting them together requiring lots of drilling,

Is that me

Builder I once helped , wanted roof battens screwed to the rsj , to aid the cladding with plasterboard. So it was lots of small holes rather than a few large ones.

3 in 1 oil would be my choice, cheap and readily available.

Wherryman

Steve_xx wrote: »

"sheradise" - what does it mean?

Sheradize.

Zinc plating (to prevent corrosion) normally used on intricately shaped steel parts, a more controllable process than hot dip galvanizing which is more often used on such things as iron railing and gates.