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Our Lovely New Plaster :O(
lovethymini
Posts: 718 Forumite
Evening all,
We've just had our kitchen re-plastered, and behind the oven I've managed to get a few spots of grease on the new plaster from cooking (oops) before we've started painting.
My question is;-
Do I need to apply something over the grease/oil marks before I put the first layer of paint on, and if so, will it be noticeable once all the painting is finished?
I was going to experiment but it will be a neater job if we get it right first time!
We've just had our kitchen re-plastered, and behind the oven I've managed to get a few spots of grease on the new plaster from cooking (oops) before we've started painting.
My question is;-
Do I need to apply something over the grease/oil marks before I put the first layer of paint on, and if so, will it be noticeable once all the painting is finished?
I was going to experiment but it will be a neater job if we get it right first time!
0
Comments
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Paint isn't really enough for behind a cooker, I'm guessing you are not tiling it or using a glass splashback.
IKEA do an amazing priced steel splashback, have you thought of one of those?
If you are puting tiles or coloured glass then don't worry about the splashes.0 -
Hi , assuming it is just brand new bare plaster and you can't clean the marks off - personally I would seal it with some PVA or stain blocker before painting that should stop any marks bleeding through the paint.
Good Luck:jDoing my bit :jCompetition prizes won 2011 ( still waiting :cool:)0 -
Dont use PVA on any new or bare plaster,:eek: read my previous posts how to paint new plaster.
In your case, I would mistcoat the new plaster first,with matt (read previous posts about mistcoats), once dry, get some oilbased UC, you must have some lying around in the shed or garage.
Just dab the grease stains with the oilbase UC, dont brush it on thick, as you will get the brush lines, dab it on, and spread the paint across the stain.
When dry, dab the actual undercoat with your colour, again not thick, then roll the wall as normal, the stains will never bleed through.
BTW, if your going for the kitchen/bathroom paint, then definately mistcoat using a contract/supermat, when dry, then paint over with the kitchen paint(if your going for kitchen paint) quite shiny, horrible stuff:eek:
There is better alternatives in Matt, ( just a thought):D0 -
Did the same thing with new plasterboard which is just as porous and absorbant.
I gave the wall one coat of Zinsser BIN, put on with a roller. Pricey stuff but good stuff. It blocks and undercoats all in one. Then Dulux Kitchen Matt as a top coat. Have to disagree with misgrace for once (sorry, lol)...I had also been warned off the Kitchen paint because of the shine but after being assured by Dulux themselves that the new Matt paint WAS matt with no shine, I gave it a go and it IS flat and Matt. (Only small quibble I have is that marks do NOT wipe off the wall as easily as I was led to believe they would.)
Dulux said their previous Kitchen/Bathroom combined paint had a shine but not the new Kitchen.Herman - MP for all!
0 -
Paint isn't really enough for behind a cooker, I'm guessing you are not tiling it or using a glass splashback.
IKEA do an amazing priced steel splashback, have you thought of one of those?
If you are puting tiles or coloured glass then don't worry about the splashes.
Thanks Mrs E; once we've sorted the grease spots and have painted the walls, we're having a glass splashback for the hob.0 -
Dont use PVA on any new or bare plaster,:eek: read my previous posts how to paint new plaster.
In your case, I would mistcoat the new plaster first,with matt (read previous posts about mistcoats), once dry, get some oilbased UC, you must have some lying around in the shed or garage.
Just dab the grease stains with the oilbase UC, dont brush it on thick, as you will get the brush lines, dab it on, and spread the paint across the stain.
When dry, dab the actual undercoat with your colour, again not thick, then roll the wall as normal, the stains will never bleed through.
BTW, if your going for the kitchen/bathroom paint, then definately mistcoat using a contract/supermat, when dry, then paint over with the kitchen paint(if your going for kitchen paint) quite shiny, horrible stuff:eek:
There is better alternatives in Matt, ( just a thought):D
Thanks missgrace :beer:
I was aware of the issues of using the PVA solution hence my question!
Your post makes sense, so we'll do that this weekend before I get any more splashes on the wall (I'm a messy cook)
NB I've bought matt white emulsion for watering down and using as an undercoat, and the wall colour is courtesy of Dulux Kitchen Paint, colourmatched to the new kitchen unit doors - in MATT too, woo hoo!0 -
Did the same thing with new plasterboard which is just as porous and absorbant.
I gave the wall one coat of Zinsser BIN, put on with a roller. Pricey stuff but good stuff. It blocks and undercoats all in one. Then Dulux Kitchen Matt as a top coat. Have to disagree with misgrace for once (sorry, lol)...I had also been warned off the Kitchen paint because of the shine but after being assured by Dulux themselves that the new Matt paint WAS matt with no shine, I gave it a go and it IS flat and Matt. (Only small quibble I have is that marks do NOT wipe off the wall as easily as I was led to believe they would.)
Dulux said their previous Kitchen/Bathroom combined paint had a shine but not the new Kitchen.[/quote
Thanks for the tip - after finishing the walls though, could you see the areas you'd applied the Zinsser?0 -
Did the same thing with new plasterboard which is just as porous and absorbant.
I gave the wall one coat of Zinsser BIN, put on with a roller. Pricey stuff but good stuff. It blocks and undercoats all in one. Then Dulux Kitchen Matt as a top coat. Have to disagree with misgrace for once (sorry, lol)...I had also been warned off the Kitchen paint because of the shine but after being assured by Dulux themselves that the new Matt paint WAS matt with no shine, I gave it a go and it IS flat and Matt. (Only small quibble I have is that marks do NOT wipe off the wall as easily as I was led to believe they would.)
Dulux said their previous Kitchen/Bathroom combined paint had a shine but not the new Kitchen.
What!!!! How very dare you.....:D
TBH, I havent used the kitchen/bathroom paint for some time, so I daresay they have improved it, pity you didnt come on here and asked about a really good wipeable matt for kitchens, as I would have told you what to use.
I put it to the test lol, I have used it before, but wanted to show the client that it does wipe off, and not leave any marks, she was very impressed, and happy, I wasnt, as I sacrificed some of the lovely cuppa tea she made me.:rolleyes:0 -
lovethymini wrote: »Thanks Mrs E; once we've sorted the grease spots and have painted the walls, we're having a glass splashback for the hob.
That will look really nice. I love glass splash backs.
Are you having coloured. I have black worktop, I would love the black coloured glass, but it would cost a bomb to go all around & I would have to raise all the electrics up under the wall units (I assume thats where they would go if it was all glass).0 -
That will look really nice. I love glass splash backs.
Are you having coloured. I have black worktop, I would love the black coloured glass, but it would cost a bomb to go all around & I would have to raise all the electrics up under the wall units (I assume thats where they would go if it was all glass).
This'll be my first glass splashback :-) Only putting it behind the hob though...Going for plain uncoloured glass, a travertine finish good quality chunky worktop with upstands (cheaper than paying a tiler!), and high gloss cream doors which Dulux have colourmatched the wall paint to. Yummy!
If you like black glass but finding it's really expensive, what about putting a black/dark wallpaper behind plain glass? My neighbour (an interior designer) did it in her kitchen and it looks really good!
Re electric socket thing - we haven't needed to worry about that with ours. One thing we have done though, is get a pop-up socket which sits under the worktop. I think it's worth speaking to a glass supplier about the whole socket thing - it might be do-able. I had a mirror cut to size for a built-in cupboard door a few years back and got them to drill a hole in it for a glass handle. I'm thinking that maybe you just need a hole drilled big enough for the wires to come through and the plate sits over the top of the glass....?
I'm no expert at the technical side of things, but come up with all the complicated ideas much to my husband's delight.0
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