Dry Lining

RajaStyle

I have a 1930's 3 bed semi where the rooms with the south facing outside walls get very cold, they seem to lose alot of heat compared with the rooms in the middle of the house understandably ... but it is a major difference, middle rooms are very noticebly warm and outside rooms are very cold. As it is a 30's house they have no gap in the wall to consider cavity insulation.

The outside walls also get damp and black stuff on it, but i have been told it is not damp but condensation. As we have small rooms we need to make use of space and have cupboards next to the wall, hence due to lack of air circulation this occurs or so i am told. We moved the cupboards an inch away from the walls allowing a bit of circulation and added damp paint on the wall, this has reduced the black stuff but not cured the problem. Needless to say the rooms are also still very cold.

I am considering dry lining, but would like to ask your help to see if you think this sounds like the solution to get the rooms warmer and resolve the damp/condensation. Also any advice on if it is easy enough for me to do myself or does it need to be professionally done ... also the best places to get the stuff i need to do it would be handy or are places like B&Q just as cheap ?

Many Thanks in Advance.

grumbler

I am not an expert, but I think much better result can be achieved if dry lining is combined with something like this:

25m. For all types of applications, from refurbishment or new build to renovations. Particularly suited to dry lining, cavity wall, pitched roofs, stud walls, under floorboards, attics and garages. More user friendly than conventional insulation.

• Lightweight
• Time Saving
• Equivalent to 55mm Polystyrene
• NHBC Accepted

RajaStyle

grumbler wrote:

I am not an expert, but I think much better result can be achieved if dry lining is combined with something like this:

Thanks Grumbler, but the site doesn't say how you use this ... sorry complete novice .... do you use this in replacement of the inslulation ? or do you put it behind the plasterboard with the insulation ?

grumbler

RajaStyle wrote:

Thanks Grumbler, but the site doesn't say how you use this ... sorry complete novice .... do you use this in replacement of the inslulation ? or do you put it behind the plasterboard with the insulation ?

http://www.brecertification.co.uk/pdf/Cert060.pdf :

3.3 Installation

3.3.1 Airtec Double and Airtec Single Foil Bubble Insulation for use behind dry lining and as partial cavity fill insulation must be installed in accordance with the requirements of the manufacturer's installation instructions. The handling and installation instructions have been inspected during the assessment. In the opinion of WIMLAS they provide satisfactory guidance for users of the product.

3.3.2 Airtec Double Foil Bubble Insulation for dry lining insulation must be installed on battens fixed horizontally to the wall at 400 mm centres, with a minimum 25 mm gap between wall and the insulation. The insulation must be fixed horizontally and nail or stapled. The insulation must be butt jointed on battens. All joints must be taped with Airtec Foil Tape. Vertical battens are subsequently applied at 400 mm or 600 mm centres for fixing of the dry lining.

3.3.3 Airtec Single Foil Bubble Insulation for dry lining insulation must be installed on battens fixed vertically at 400mm centres with a minimum 25 mm gap between the wall and the Airtec Single. The membrane must be fixed vertically and be nailed or stapled with the foil face towards the wall. Airtec Single must be butt jointed on battens. All joints must be taped with Airtec foil tape. Plasterboard can be fixed onto the vertical battens.

3.3.4 For Airtec Double partial cavity fill insulation the inner leaf of the masonry construction should be raised at least 450 mm ahead of the outer leaf so that the Airtec Double Foil Bubble Insulation can be fastened within the cavity. After raising each section of inner leaf it must be ensured that the wall ties and spacers have been correctly installed, that excess mortar has been cleaned from the face of the inner leaf and that there have been no mortar droppings on the exposed edges and face of installed Airtec Double insulation.

3.3.5 The first run of Airtec Double insulation is applied horizontally, and cut with a sharp blade or pushed over the brick ties. Any holes must be kept as small as possible. When in position retaining clips are fitted to ensure the Airtec Double is kept towards the centre within the cavity. The top and bottom edge should be 50 mm above and below the rows of brick ties. The next horizontal run of Airtec Double is installed in a similar manner ensuring that overlaps face outwards to create a waterproofing lap. The insulation must be positioned to maintain the minimum clear cavity of approximately 50 mm between face and cavity face of the outer leaf. A 27 mm gap must exist between face and cavity face of the inner leaf

3.3.6 The inner leaf of the masonry construction should be raised at least 450 mm ahead of the outer leaf so that the Airtec Single Foil Bubble Insulation can be fastened horizontally to the cavity face of the inner leaf. After raising each section of inner leaf it must be ensured that wall ties have been correctly installed, that excess mortar has been cleaned from the face of the inner leaf and that there have been no mortar droppings on the exposed edges and face of installed Airtec Single insulation.

3.3.7 The Airtec Single insulation is applied to the inner leaf with the foil faced insulation facing outwards into the cavity, ensuring that overlaps face outwards to create a waterproofing lap. The Airtec Single insulation is secured with retaining clips fixed onto the wall ties.

3.3.8 The outer leaf must be built ensuring that the designed minimum clear cavity is maintained. After raising each section, loose mortar must be cleaned off the insulation face, not allowing mortar into the cavity. On building upwards the Airtec Double and Airtec Single Foil Bubble Insulation partial cavity fill insulation must be laid with vertical joints staggered.

3.3.9 At external and internal corners the Airtec Double Foil Bubble Insulation partial cavity fill insulation should be wrapped around the corner and the air gap maintained by positioning brick ties at every horizontal brick course.

3.3.10 At internal corners the Airtec single should be wrapped around the corner and held in place with brick ties on the diagonal.

3.3.11 Around openings the foil membrane must be slit in the required positions to allow fixing over wall ties

3.3.12 At ground level Airtec Double and Airtec Single Foil Bubble Insulation partial cavity fill insulation must extend below the level of internal flooring insulation. The installation of Airtec Double and Airtec Single Foil Bubble Insulation partial cavity fill insulation should be carried out to the highest level of each wall, or the top edge must be protected by a continuous cavity tray.

See also: Insulating internal walls

RajaStyle

Grumbler ... so I understand this correctly ...

Strip the walls of wallpaper, skirting etc ... put a sheet of Airtec Double across the whole wall ... then create a timber frame as explained in the diydata link and put on top of the Airtec Double and then put plasterboard laminate over the timber frame and replace skirting etc ?

grumbler

I think yes. However, I've never done this and I am not an expert - as I told in my first post .
The drawing is available here:
http://www.fastrackcad.com/CAD.ASP?Company_id=195 => airtec dry lining insulation system => single plan section => Preview... (Right-click for zoom).
However, to see it you will probably need to downloas some driver: see
For help downloading drawings and using previews click here.

P.S. If you can see single plan section than see double plan section too. This is a little more complex, but more efficient.

beefster

RajaStyle wrote:

Grumbler ... so I understand this correctly ...

Strip the walls of wallpaper, skirting etc ... put a sheet of Airtec Double across the whole wall ... then create a timber frame as explained in the diydata link and put on top of the Airtec Double and then put plasterboard laminate over the timber frame and replace skirting etc ?

Erm NO......... read again. you nrrd to timber frame the wall first to give a 25mm air gap between the wall and the product. Then put another timber frame over the top thus sandwiching the product. Its all written on the packaging.

"3.3.2 Airtec Double Foil Bubble Insulation for dry lining insulation must be installed on battens fixed horizontally to the wall at 400 mm centres, with a minimum 25 mm gap between wall and the insulation. The insulation must be fixed horizontally and nail or stapled. The insulation must be butt jointed on battens. All joints must be taped with Airtec Foil Tape. Vertical battens are subsequently applied at 400 mm or 600 mm centres for fixing of the dry lining.

3.3.3 Airtec Single Foil Bubble Insulation for dry lining insulation must be installed on battens fixed vertically at 400mm centres with a minimum 25 mm gap between the wall and the Airtec Single. The membrane must be fixed vertically and be nailed or stapled with the foil face towards the wall. Airtec Single must be butt jointed on battens. All joints must be taped with Airtec foil tape. Plasterboard can be fixed onto the vertical battens."

For small areas - A 7m x 600mm roll of double sided is £21.50 ish at B&Q at the mo.
For larger areas Screwfix do bulk rolls.

grumbler

beefster wrote:

......... you need to timber frame the wall first to give a 25mm air gap between the wall and the product. Then put another timber frame over the top thus sandwiching the product. Its all written on the packaging...

I am not an expert (again!), but I think this describes 'double plan section' (see my post above). 'single plan section' requires 25mm gap only between the product and the plasterboard.

djohn2002uk

I have to agree with beefster.
3.3.2 Airtec Double Foil Bubble Insulation for dry lining insulation must be installed on battens fixed horizontally to the wall at 400 mm centres, with a minimum 25 mm gap between wall and the insulation.

3.3.3 Airtec Single Foil Bubble Insulation for dry lining insulation must be installed on battens fixed vertically at 400mm centres with a minimum 25 mm gap between the wall and the Airtec Single.

tempest42

Hope this helps and again no expert, I thought dry lining was called so because its a way of making a flat wall with out the use of wet plaster and undercoat plaster, doesnt mean it can cure damp problems , think you would be better with some injection damp prooffing, also something doesnt ring true about your walls facing south and being cold as they would always be in the sun and therefore get the most natural heat.

tempest42

http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/uncle112003.shtml