Replacing sockets and switches

Sammz

I should never have started! It was that bleedin' handyman that told me it was easy.

So, is my bedroom going to blow up with the 10A switch instead of the 6A one that was there before?

Viper_7

It will be 6A for a reason, and it means that the fuse is now possibly "stronger" than the wiring, so rather than the fuse blowing, something else may....


It's only easy if you know what your doing just like with anything, don't feel bad that your having difficulty, but actually feel good for checking with others first before plowing aimlessly on.

Vipes

Sammz

I'll change it back.
Tomorrow I'm stripping gloss paint off my window frames :eek:

TimBuckTeeth

If it the original switch plate has a fuse then the new one should also have a fuse which should be fitted with the same fuse rating as the original.

I think you are referring to the switch current rating for the bedroom. This is the maximum current that the switch can be used with, using a higher rated one is fine. If it has a fuse then that should be fitted with the same rating as the original.

TimBuckTeeth

Sammz wrote: »

I'm trying to replace a few sockets and switches. First query:

I've done one light switch easily enough but the second one is different.

There isn't a terminal for the earth cable to go in to. The instructions say it should be insulated by an appropriate means.

Is putting it in to the other end of this little plastic thing an appropriate means?

The earth wire should not be connected to the existing terminal block with the black wires.
The earth wire should be connected to the metal back box in the wall. If it is already connected to the back box then putting it into a new terminal block which is not connected to anything else would be a way to insulate it.

Sammz

Thanks Tim but I'm not going to risk doing anymore.

andrew-b

I think it's very dangerous giving any advice on this. Sammz should get an electrician in for this (didn't see last post when writing this so glad to hear they are). Alot of us here know how to do this job...but written advice can be open to ambiguity which could compromise safety so please think carefully before giving advice on electric works.

Without any intention of causing offence, I hope Sammz that you realise the switch cables are LIVE even if the switch is off and so you should be isolating the lighting circuit from the consumer unit or preferably turning off everything at the main switch - that's obvious to me but to some it may not be.

If in doubt with electrics ALWAYS get someone in (even if means being in the dark for a day or two)...there's no second chances with electricity. Better to be poorer for having paid out than richer and dead.

Andy

Sammz

Andy - the first thing I did was switch of the power. I would never have thought to even attempt it myself if it hadn't been for the guy I got in to do my bathroom telling me it was easy.

My problem now is knowing what to buy so I have the bits for an electrician.

weekendwarrior

I really think that you don't need a sparks to change a light switch and if you do call a sparks to change a light switch he will either charge a fortune- call out fee etc or just won't bother turning up.

The black wires in the terminal block in the picture are the neutrals.



There is an earth wire in that picture already, if your new switch does not require an earth then it should be connected to the metal back box.

If your instructions say that you have to insulate the earth wire then they are clearly wrong. A metal back box with a plastic fronted switch still requires earthing.

andrew-b

weekendwarrior wrote: »

I really think that you don't need a sparks to change a light switch and if you do call a sparks to change a light switch he will either charge a fortune- call out fee etc or just won't bother turning up.

I agree with you that you don't have to have a spark for this..but it still requires competency. For example the lounge at our property was decorated not long before we moved in...i'm told by a neighbour that the decorator also replaced the light fittings and added a 3-bulb ceiling light. When i looked in the loft i discovered they had wired the pendant up to a junction box using standard multi-strand flex! I was horrified! I was also horrified how a spur to a socket had been installed - the previous owner (or whoever they had in to do it) had cut away a metal backing box in a socket (which had been hidden by a wardrobe) and wedged in a junction box !! We sorted that one as soon as we moved in.

So yes i agree that an electrician isn't strictly required for this job...but if you dont want a bodged job its a far safer bet to get one.

If your instructions say that you have to insulate the earth wire then they are clearly wrong. A metal back box with a plastic fronted switch still requires earthing.

As i said written instructions unless carefully worded can be open to ambiguity. Earth wire should have earth sleeving fitted to it rather than leaving the copper conductor bare - i think that's what those instructions would mean.

Andy