Repointing a house - cost?

Options
2456

Comments

  • IM
    IM Posts: 383 Forumite
    First Post First Anniversary Combo Breaker
    Options
    Nobody got any views on the cost of sandblasting (or any other method) the brickwork, or the best place to look for a quote, as mentioned earlier in the thread...?
  • lush_walrus
    lush_walrus Posts: 1,975 Forumite
    Options
    IM wrote:
    How much did this cost, and where did you find someone to do it?

    I've been looking for a while, but all the places I've found in the Yellow Pages/on t'internet seem to only be interested in doing churches or warehouses (ahead of conversion to flats), rather than just a single house.

    We live in a traditional Manchester red-brick semi, and not only do we need the whole house re-pointed, but at some point in the past someone painted the bottom section of the brickwork in red brick paint. This may have looked OK for 10 minutes after it was done, but now is in a very sorry state.

    I've tried taking a drill with a wire brush attachment to it, and whilst this works, it would take months (not to mention a pallet-load of wire brushes...)

    What I'd like to do is get the whole of the outside stripped, cleaned and re-pointed.

    Is this a job that any general builder would be able to do, or do I need a specialist?


    Do not sandblast your house, at any price, it will almost certainly damage your bricks (especially as your house is red brick, which are the softest bricks). Ultimately sandblasting takes paint off by eating away layers of brick, and if you arent careful rather than having paint as your problem you will be inneed of replacing the bricks.

    The best method of removing paint from brickwork and is recognised as such is a method called Kling Strip, which will not damage your bricks at all. It does make a mess and isnt cheap. It will also need to be carried out by a specialist company, generally the best ones are the ones which are recognised in conservation.

    From a cost point of view in London the norm is approx £25-27 per sq m and sections may need to be worked on twice to remove stubborn bits of paint.
  • IM
    IM Posts: 383 Forumite
    First Post First Anniversary Combo Breaker
    Options
    Lush Walrus - That's brilliant, many thanks - I didn't think sandblasting souned right.

    As you suggest, I don't think I'd fancy trying that stuff myself, it looks very messy.

    In terms of doing a Yellow Pages search, what should I be looking for to find a company to do this kind of work. As I said in my earlier post, putting things like 'stone and brickwork cleaning' is coming up with big boys, who are only interested in large commercial jobs than my wee semi.
  • lush_walrus
    lush_walrus Posts: 1,975 Forumite
    Options
    Have a look on http://www.buildingconservation.com/ they are basically a directory for conservation specialists (which this form of paint removal would come under).

    All of the companies on there will vary in size, but it will give you a lead to start with. If you do find someone in your area, but they are too large to deal with that form of work then ask if they do know anybody who would consider work of that scale. Its a small world in these specialist fields, so many know of each other.
  • bigbear_3
    Options
    Have been thinking about scraping out the old cement myself and getting a brickie to actually repoint the house. This however is going to take me a while and was wondering if I did this over a period of say a month would it cause more harm because damp would be able to penertrate more easily.

    I live in Ipswich and have been quoted around £21pm2 which I hope is not a rip off but with me doing half the work myself am hoping to bring the price down a bit. :A

    If anyone can recommend anyone in the area I wwould be forever gratefull :p
  • fashionaddict_2
    Options
    I would be very careful in picking a builder for brick pointing, it's very tedious and boring work and there's a lot of temptation to use tools like angle grinders. This is not good as it can damage your walls leaving unsightly marks.
    I definitely suggest getting personal recommendations from friends.
  • Alchemy
    Options
    Ok, here go's when it comes to pointing you need to take account of a few things, the brick, its condition, the current type of pointing all of these thing will effect the final out come of the job, example, if the building is victorian it will probably have a lime based mortar which in most cases will rake out of the joints easily however and this is common if it has been re-pointed before and someone has re-pointed with a cementitious (cement based) mortar and again all too often made the mortar too strong (more cement than needed) it can be a nightmare to remove (as the mortar should always be weaker than the masonry) because when it had been originally raked out and the wall then dampened (to assist in the new mortar bonding to the old) if the joint dries out before the new mortar is applied this can cause the mortar to fall out in patches in the future leaving you with a wall that needs patch pointing with the problems mentioned earlier, as far as raking the joints out go's as a brickie i spent many years using the old cold steel and hammer but if the bricks are of a soft type either originally or through age this can cause a whole load of chipping making the job look unsightly i personally use what i think will be the best tool for the job each job being different, when it comes to angle grinders i do use these on the older property however it's a small easy to handle 18v 115mm cordless grinder by Dewalt which just so happens to have a distance from the motor housing to the edge of the disc of around 12-15mm which as mention earlier is about spot on for re-pointing this with a 6mm mortar joint raking disc is ideal, as far as cost go's all the previous points plus many others are taken in to account when pricing ie, bond of the existing brickwork (Englist and Dutch bond having more joint work than stretcher bond) final pointing type Flush, Struck weathered and rounded to mention a few, I usually charge between £15 and £27 /m2 subject to access etc, i hope this helps.
  • littlemoney
    Options
    Can anyone tell me how I find a reliable person to repoint my house please, as there are a lot of cowboys out there and I am very worried about this. I don't know of anyone who has this work done especially as I don't know many people in my local area so I don't know where to start. Any advice/suggestions would be appeciated please
  • slated_2
    Options
    I am a Coventry based roofer and have been working in the industry for 30 years. There is quite a lot more involved in repointing than many people think. If you repoint the late victorian/Edwardian red brick houses with a strong cementious mix (sand/cement) you can cause damage to the brickwork in a very short period of time. This is because the mortar can actually prevent the wall from 'breathing', (or the release of vapour through the joints). In turn, the moisture releases through the bricks instead, and can result in severe frost damage during the colder weather. You need to make sure that the mortar used is not stronger than 1:3 mix, or that lime is used to help breathing and flexibility properties of the mortar. (6:1:1) Also. if the mortar is stronger than the bricks, (as can be common in the edwardian soft brick construction), then any movement in the structure (again not unknown in these properties) can cause the bricks to crack, rather than the mortar joint. (far easier and cheaper to repoint than replace cracked brickwork).
    In short, get someone that knows what they are doing and get them to use the correct mortar. 6mm is insufficient depth for repointing, it should be between 10 and 25 mm depending on the type of brickwork..in these houses, I opt for 25mm depth. Angle grinders are fine to use, but make sure all dust is washed out of the joints otherwise it will impede bonding; just be careful not to cut into the bricks, as this is unsightly. Cost wise, expect to pay around £150-£200 per day for labour, plus your scaffold charges and materials. Do not skimp on the pennies; get it done right or you will pay later.
  • Rebob
    Rebob Posts: 1,010 Forumite
    First Anniversary Combo Breaker Mortgage-free Glee!
    Options
    We paid £1000 for the gable wall doing last year including the scaffold hire. We were quoted another £1500 for the back and other gable wall as they would have done neighbours at the same time. Mine is a detached house that is like a terrace in size/design.
    The best bargains are priceless!!!!!!!!!! :T :T :T
This discussion has been closed.
Meet your Ambassadors

Categories

  • All Categories
  • 343.2K Banking & Borrowing
  • 250.1K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
  • 449.7K Spending & Discounts
  • 235.3K Work, Benefits & Business
  • 608.1K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
  • 173.1K Life & Family
  • 247.9K Travel & Transport
  • 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
  • 15.9K Discuss & Feedback
  • 15.1K Coronavirus Support Boards