Storage Heaters

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  • coffeehound
    coffeehound Posts: 5,674 Forumite
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    edited 7 December 2018 at 12:33PM
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    I think in your position t-s-m i would just start with the suppliers advice to turn the input controls to max and see how that goes (and following R-f-t-b’s good advice re keeping the damper fully shut).

    You can then turn input controls down if you find you need less heat in particular areas. Once you build up meaningful usage readings you’ll be better placed to compare tariffs

    .
  • the-saucepan-man
    the-saucepan-man Posts: 19 Forumite
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    coffeehound wrote: »
    I think in your position t-s-m i would just start with the suppliers advice to turn the input controls to max and see how that goes (and following R-f-t-b’s good advice re keeping the damper fully shut).

    Thanks, this does seem to be the standard advice, but wouldn't turning up the input control just use up more energy? For example, if the house is warm with the input control set to 3 wouldn't setting it to 6 just double my energy usage and my bills? Or am I misunderstanding how the input control works?
  • coffeehound
    coffeehound Posts: 5,674 Forumite
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    The heaters are designed for seven hours’ charging time. The variable then is whether they have been adequately provisioned in terms of size and number your home.

    You could get a heating engineer to do a survey and check the calculations and confirm whether you have enough capacity for E7. Or you could do this yourself if you want to do the calculations.
  • coffeehound
    coffeehound Posts: 5,674 Forumite
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    the-saucepan-man wrote: »
    Thanks, this does seem to be the standard advice, but wouldn't turning up the input control just use up more energy? For example, if the house is warm with the input control set to 3 wouldn't setting it to 6 just double my energy usage and my bills? Or am I misunderstanding how the input control works?

    Basically yes (although i don’t know whether the control is linear, so it might not be double). But yes, higher input setting equates to more electricity used.

    So really you need to experiment and find input setting for each heater that gives you enough heating capacity.
  • the-saucepan-man
    the-saucepan-man Posts: 19 Forumite
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    coffeehound wrote: »
    The heaters are designed for seven hours’ charging time. The variable then is whether they have been adequately provisioned in terms of size and number your home.

    Okay, so provided they are adequately provisioned, if I switch to Economy 7 I'd need to have the storage heaters input turned up to 6 and on for 7 hours each night to ensure I still have enough heat in the evening?

    Let's calculate this...

    In my living room I have a 3.4Kw Creda Supaslim Combi
    3.4Kw x 7hrs = 23kWh
    In my kitchen / dining area I have a 2.55Kw Creda Slimline
    2.55Kw x 7hrs = 17.85kWh
    In one bedroom I have a 1.7Kw Creda Slimline
    1.7Kw x 7hrs = 11.9kWh
    In my hall I have another 1.7Kw Creda Slimline
    1.7Kw x 7hrs = 11.9kWh
    Total kWh
    23kWh + 17.85kWh + 11.9kWh + 11.9kWh = 64.65kWh / day

    Now if I go by the 28 days between Oct 31st and Nov 28th which had a heating control output of 1115kWh and I divide it by those 28 days I get a daily usage of 39.82kWh and that includes the hot water and the two electric panel heaters in the other two bedrooms.

    By those calculations I'd be better staying with SSE's TSTC tariff and keeping my inputs where they are until such time as the house isn't staying warm. Unless my calculations are wrong and/or I'm missing something?
  • the-saucepan-man
    the-saucepan-man Posts: 19 Forumite
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    coffeehound wrote: »
    Basically yes (although i don’t know whether the control is linear, so it might not be double). But yes, higher input setting equates to more electricity used.

    So really you need to experiment and find input setting for each heater that gives you enough heating capacity.

    Thanks I really appreciate this answer, no-one else had quite confirmed it yet and I was worried I was missing something. This helps me understand things a little better,
  • coffeehound
    coffeehound Posts: 5,674 Forumite
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    Sorry we cross posted there.

    No, it is not necessary to have your input controls on maximum for Economy7, that might just be necessary in the coldest weather.
  • coffeehound
    coffeehound Posts: 5,674 Forumite
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    Looking at that tariff, thay say you can have various heaters and other appliances on the cheaper rate 24 hours a day. Do you have this set up at your place? It does sound like a good tarrif to have in the colder north.
  • the-saucepan-man
    the-saucepan-man Posts: 19 Forumite
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    coffeehound wrote: »
    Looking at that tariff, thay say you can have various heaters and other appliances on the cheaper rate 24 hours a day. Do you have this set up at your place? It does sound like a good tarrif to have in the colder north.

    Yes, showers, hot water and a couple wall heaters, so I'm leaning towards sticking with the THTC tariff at least for now. I've just spoken to someone from the Electric Team at SSE and he's reassured me that despite the daily on/off times varying between 5-12 hours depending on the weather if it only takes 7 hours to charge the storage heater it will stop taking in electricity. Assuming that's true, it makes more sense to stay with SSE.

    Thanks for your help. I've still got some calculating to do to see if I can manage my energy use a bit better, but this has been very helpful. I really appreciate it.

    And now that that's pretty much out of the way, I don't suppose anyone has any idea how much electricity a Philips Thermotube (VOLTS 240 WPF 60) 41633S uses up? I have one in my downstairs toilet which is pretty cold, I've guessed that it might be to stop pipes from freezing in winter time, but if I switch it on it stays on regardless of temperature, so I'm wondering whether it's got a broken thermostat or if it's just meant to be a wee heater. I've been thinking of keeping it on during the night as the weather gets colder, but don't want to be burning a hole in my wallet.

    In the bathroom I have a heated towel rail which says Terma Technologie, but it doesn't seem to work, when I turn it on the lights flash and I can set it higher or lower, but no matter how long I leave it on, the lights continue to flash and it doesn't heat up. I'm not sure whether it's ever been used so could've been installed incorrectly or perhaps something inside it is broken. Any suggestions?

    Thanks again for your help.
  • matelodave
    matelodave Posts: 8,609 Forumite
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    The Philips Thermotub heaters dont have a thermostat. They are aon all the time. 60wpf means 60 watts per foot, so a 2 foot Thermotube would consume 120watts and a 4 ft one would draw 240 watts.

    Heres a Dimplex one witha thermostat https://www.amazon.co.uk/TUBULAR-HEATER-THERMOSTAT-ECOT3FT-DIMPLEX/dp/B0131QPTA0. Other sizes are available (and I guess other manufacturers as well)
    Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large numbers
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