UPDATED: Air Source Heat Pumps/Air Con - Full Info & Guide, is it cheaper to run than mains gas?
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I hope someone can offer me some advise please?
I have an ecodan air source heat pump which was installed in December 2012. We keep getting a U1 error code on the panel. The radiators upstairs don't seem to be getting hot, the underfloor heating seems to be working fine and the water is always hot.
I've had someone out to look at it and he has replaced a sensor as he thought it may be faulty but the problem is still occuring, sometimes more than once a day.
Has anyone experienced this error before and if so what fixed it?
Many thanks
U1 is the most common fault on the eco dan, it is a high pressure fault which usually occurs when poor flow rate at the dan.if the dan see's a u1 fault 3 times it will shut down,then you have to perform a full reset.from what I understand you are saying that yours never shuts down, but you just loose the heating to the rads and an u1 fault code appears?strange if it does.
List of checks for you to to
1.check the flow setter , mitisi recommend that it needs to be set 12.5l>15ltrs , if you don't know what the flow setter is it is brass fitting with glass window with a white tab in it, the bottom of the white tab should be with in 12.5> 15l mark, turn all the heating on and see what flow rate you are getting.
2.loss of pressure in heating system. There should be pressure gauge somewhere and that should be between 1bar > 2bar but they should run as low as 0.6 bar.
3.i take it you got 2 zones for heating, ifso check both pumps are running.one of pumps could appear to be running but might not be running to its full pottential.
4.frozen pipes can cause it also but I doubt it as it's not really been that cold.
5.iv come across some where software needs updating
6.poss might have air in the system, check your air bleed valves, undo the little caps to see if any air comes out.
7.check no valves have accidentally been turned off, especially the outdoor ones by the dan, kids love to play
9x10 it's usually loss pressure, which is just case of topping up the system and seeing if the pressure holds up.
I'm not sure why the chap changed any sensors,that's probably one of the last things to go, there's not a lot to wrong with a sensor.which one did he change
Anyway see how you get on, if you can give a bit more info then might be able to pin point it.0 -
Not having the same system as you (Daikin) I can only suggest what happens when mine goes into a low-flow shut down.
The heatpump requires a minimum flowrate through it and it's possible that the zone valves are closing the flow in your upstairs zone and restricting the flow below the minimum level.
My system has 8 thermostatically controlled zones (probably overkill) and it's possible for them to reduce the flow to several zones thus reducing the boiler flow below it's shut-off point. Sometimes just our bathroom wants heat and there's insufficient system flow when just that zone is open. To combat this there's an adjustable by-pass valve in the system which is designed to maintain a minimum flow rate even when only one zone is operating.
Have a look at your thermostat settings and check that all valves are operating correctly and that nothing has been inadvertently turned off or adjusted.
Finally has it been working OK and suddenly started playing up, if so it's worth having a think about what has changed since it started behaving abnormally - have you (or anyone else) tweaked any radiators, thermostats or settingsNever under estimate the power of stupid people in large numbers0 -
Thanks everyone. Apparently it was a valve not a sensor that was changed.0
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He could of tested the valve to see if it works or not, if it did not that would explain no heat to that zone,but if it was a faulty valve it should not cause u1 fault providing you have a bypass valve fitted and set correctly...
Anymore info you can give0 -
Hi - I'm a newbie here looking some advice on heating my home (size 150m squared on ground level with attic conversion). I had underfloor heating powered by an oil boiler. Each zone is thermostatically controlled and this also heats my hot water tank. My house is 10 year old and fairly well insulated although not fully airtight. I have solar panels generating electric only and the excess feeds into the grid. My boiler has died and I have been told that the boiler and burner needs replaced. Rather than put in another oil boiler I am tempted to look at other greener and cheaper methods to heat the house and the water. I have no access to mains gas and geothermal is not an option. Presently I am looking at air source heat pump but I am reading conflicting reports on the forums and have become confused - can anyone offer me any advice on what I need?? Thank you in advance.0
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Hi - I'm a newbie here looking some advice on heating my home (size 150m squared on ground level with attic conversion). I had underfloor heating powered by an oil boiler. Each zone is thermostatically controlled and this also heats my hot water tank. My house is 10 year old and fairly well insulated although not fully airtight. I have solar panels generating electric only and the excess feeds into the grid. My boiler has died and I have been told that the boiler and burner needs replaced. Rather than put in another oil boiler I am tempted to look at other greener and cheaper methods to heat the house and the water. I have no access to mains gas and geothermal is not an option. Presently I am looking at air source heat pump but I am reading conflicting reports on the forums and have become confused - can anyone offer me any advice on what I need?? Thank you in advance.
I'm sure others will disagree and is subject to professional survey... If your system is not designed from the ground up for a heat pump then oil may still be the best bet...0 -
Agree with the above.
To achieve high efficiency, water from an ASHP runs at a considerably lower temperature than Oil/Gas central heating.
Thus the radiators and UFH pipes are usually bigger with an ASHP. It is probable that water at 35C-40C from an ASHP will not provide sufficient warmth from a system designed for water that can be up to 80C.
Who has condemned a 10 year old boiler?0 -
Do you know what your u/f heating system temperature was - some have mixing valves to reduce the higher boiler temperatures from a convention boiler down to 35-40 degrees.
As said above, if you are seriously thinking about a heat pump then learn as much about it as you can, get several (at least three) surveys and quotes done. You really do need to know if your existing u/f heating will deliver enough heat to your house at 35-40 degrees. Mine runs at 30-35 degrees and works fine as the pipe spacing is 6" (150mm) instead of the more usual 8" (200mm). Running a heatpump at much more than 40 degrees will increase your electricity consumption by quite a bit.
Do the sums - you won't get much change out of £6-8k and even if you save £500 a year on your energy bills, that's a payback of 12-16years. You could buy three or four new oil boilers for that or get your existing one repaired a lot of timesNever under estimate the power of stupid people in large numbers0 -
Its a warmflow boiler and the boiler burst and flooded the burner. 2 Plumbers told me that it was not worth fixing and to put a better boiler in next time!Agree with the above.
To achieve high efficiency, water from an ASHP runs at a considerably lower temperature than Oil/Gas central heating.
Thus the radiators and UFH pipes are usually bigger with an ASHP. It is probable that water at 35C-40C from an ASHP will not provide sufficient warmth from a system designed for water that can be up to 80C.
Who has condemned a 10 year old boiler?0
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