Help with washing machine plumbing

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  • macman
    macman Posts: 53,098 Forumite
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    How about turning the red isolator on, and seeing if the water runs hot or cold?
    If you connect a cold fill machine to a hot supply, then it'll use hot water for all the cycles that are intended to be cold, such as pre-wash, rinse, etc. And cool wash programs (30C etc) will become hot.
    Your hot water usage will increase, along with the cost of producing it.
    No free lunch, and no free laptop ;)
  • restless6
    restless6 Posts: 468 Forumite
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    Yes it!!!8217;s definitely hot water supply as I heard the boiler fire up when the machine started
  • Head_The_Ball
    Head_The_Ball Posts: 4,067 Forumite
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    OP, you probably got your answer in post 5.
    Alter_ego wrote: »
    Looks like the other fill pipe 12" to the left!

    He/she refers to the vertical pipe and service valve at the top left of your photo.

    Fit the washing machine hose to that and use a screwdriver to turn the tap 90 degrees clockwise or anti clockwise so the slot is in line with the pipe.

    Turn it slowly in case it leaks and be ready to turn it back to the off (at 90 degrees to pipe)) position if anything leaks.

    If that results in cold water being supplied to your washing machine you can then fit a short length of pipe plus a blue coloured washing machine tap.
  • Rodders53
    Rodders53 Posts: 2,150 Forumite
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    edited 6 July 2018 at 2:50PM
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    Assuming the left-hand isolating valve is connected to the cold water feed (stopcock pipework).

    First turn of the water at the stopcock and release pressure by turning on the cold tap. Then,

    Use one of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-washing-machine-valve-15mm-x/25555

    To replace the isolating valve https://www.screwfix.com/p/isolating-valve-15mm-2-pack/65251 missing it's olive and nut.

    You can probably leave the existing nut and olive on the pipe if it doesn't come off easily. It will fit on the washing machine isolator input and probably seal OK if undamaged.

    NB There are many other places to buy plumbing bits from Screwfix is not being recommended by me linking to their catalogue of parts.

    OR

    Call a plumber to sort out that mess of pipework properly!
  • restless6
    restless6 Posts: 468 Forumite
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    I can!!!8217;t change the pipework as it!!!8217;s a rented house
  • restless6
    restless6 Posts: 468 Forumite
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    I turned the green tap and it is the cold water as it stopped water coming out the kitchen tap when I turned it .
    The screw above it where I think the cold water inlet for the washing machine attaches - is smaller than the end of the hose . It will not join. Yet the red one for the hot water is the correct size. I do not understand why they would be different sizes?
    I cannot later the pipe work - is it possible to alter the inlet hose size instead ?
  • Head_The_Ball
    Head_The_Ball Posts: 4,067 Forumite
    edited 6 July 2018 at 4:10PM
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    restless6 wrote: »
    I can't change the pipework as it's a rented house
    Have you asked the landlord or agents about the plumbing? If not, ask them.

    There really is nothing to stop you doing what is suggested above in post 14 or post 15.

    Just add the required fittings above that service valve.

    You could remove them when the tenancy ends but frankly, in the unlikely event that your additions are noticed, a landlord would be foolish to complain as it adds functionality to the plumbing.

    You could just move the washing machine hose to the service valve if the blue coloured end fits the service valve. There should be a washer to make it water tight.

    Leave the red valve at the current 90 degrees to the pipe as that is the off position. Make sure it doesn't leak. If it does you need to fit a stop end. They only cost a pound or two and are easy to fit.
  • Head_The_Ball
    Head_The_Ball Posts: 4,067 Forumite
    edited 6 July 2018 at 4:08PM
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    I would also advise you to check the stopcock on the rising main bottom middle of the photo.

    It looks as if it hasn't been turned for a long time and may be stuck or seized in the open position.

    The last thing you want is a seized stopcock if you ever have a water leak.

    Try gently closing it. If it won't move post again for further advice.

    If it does move close and open it a few times then open it fully and finally close it about an eight of a turn as that helps to prevent it seizing.

    Or, if you are nervous about doing that, report it to the landlord who should sort it out.
  • Carrot007
    Carrot007 Posts: 4,534 Forumite
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    Robin9 wrote: »
    Most machines these days are cold fill - but does it matter if you use a hot fill ?


    Yes, "on cheap machines" (under £600?) they assume cold fill and will not go well with hot.
  • restless6
    restless6 Posts: 468 Forumite
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    Have you asked the landlord or agents about the plumbing? If not, ask them.

    There really is nothing to stop you doing what is suggested above in post 14 or post 15.

    Just add the required fittings above that service valve.

    You could remove them when the tenancy ends but frankly, in the unlikely event that your additions are noticed, a landlord would be foolish to complain as it adds functionality to the plumbing.

    You could just move the washing machine hose to the service valve if the blue coloured end fits the service valve. There should be a washer to make it water tight.

    Leave the red valve at the current 90 degrees to the pipe as that is the off position. Make sure it doesn't leak. If it does you need to fit a stop end. They only cost a pound or two and are easy to fit.

    I do not understand what the service valve is ? Sorry - plumbing is new to me
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