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Kithen ring mains, cable routing
Catalin_2
Posts: 3 Newbie
I am converting a room into a kitchen. I have to install a ring mains, a (radial) circuit for the oven, and a separate radial circuit for the fridge/freezer. I know this will have to be notified. My questions are about routing the cable for the ring.
1. Can I route some of the cable on the surface of the wall behind the cabinets, rather than buried into the wall?
1a. If I can route cables on the surface of the wall, am I right in thinking that they don't have to be in safe zones? Those apply only to buried cable (and only if less than 50mm deep).
2. Can I have a FCU that's part of the ring mains inside a cabinet, on the inner side of the cabinet, in a surface mounting box, with the cables in mini-trunking going through the back of the cabinet? The FCUs feed single, unfused, inaccessible outlets where built-in appliances connect (or flex connection plates, where the appliance comes with pigtails rather than a 13A plug). There would be three cables to each FCU: two from the ring, one for the load.
2a. If I can't have a FCU that's part of the ring mounted inside a cabinet, what about one that's a spur?
2b. If I can't have a FCU mounted in a cabinet at all, what are other ideas about where to place them so that they are not immediately visible? (I wanted them in plain view, but my wife objected when I told her we would have six of them: cooker hood, gas hob (for ignition), plinth heater (hydronic), dishwasher, built-in microwave oven, built-in fridge-freezer).
Also, can you tell me about the notification process? How do the inspections work, and what happens if they find something that's not satisfactory? Are the inspectors typically helpful, or do they try to discourage DIYers like me?
1. Can I route some of the cable on the surface of the wall behind the cabinets, rather than buried into the wall?
1a. If I can route cables on the surface of the wall, am I right in thinking that they don't have to be in safe zones? Those apply only to buried cable (and only if less than 50mm deep).
2. Can I have a FCU that's part of the ring mains inside a cabinet, on the inner side of the cabinet, in a surface mounting box, with the cables in mini-trunking going through the back of the cabinet? The FCUs feed single, unfused, inaccessible outlets where built-in appliances connect (or flex connection plates, where the appliance comes with pigtails rather than a 13A plug). There would be three cables to each FCU: two from the ring, one for the load.
2a. If I can't have a FCU that's part of the ring mounted inside a cabinet, what about one that's a spur?
2b. If I can't have a FCU mounted in a cabinet at all, what are other ideas about where to place them so that they are not immediately visible? (I wanted them in plain view, but my wife objected when I told her we would have six of them: cooker hood, gas hob (for ignition), plinth heater (hydronic), dishwasher, built-in microwave oven, built-in fridge-freezer).
Also, can you tell me about the notification process? How do the inspections work, and what happens if they find something that's not satisfactory? Are the inspectors typically helpful, or do they try to discourage DIYers like me?
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Comments
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I am converting a room into a kitchen. I have to install a ring mains, a (radial) circuit for the oven, and a separate radial circuit for the fridge/freezer. I know this will have to be notified. My questions are about routing the cable for the ring.
1. Can I route some of the cable on the surface of the wall behind the cabinets, rather than buried into the wall?
Yes, no reason why not, probably have to run in trunking1a. If I can route cables on the surface of the wall, am I right in thinking that they don't have to be in safe zones? Those apply only to buried cable (and only if less than 50mm deep).
Still only run horizontally and vertically, if you can it is still a good idea to keep to the safe zones (i don't know if you have to though)2. Can I have a FCU that's part of the ring mains inside a cabinet, on the inner side of the cabinet, in a surface mounting box, with the cables in mini-trunking going through the back of the cabinet? The FCUs feed single, unfused, inaccessible outlets where built-in appliances connect (or flex connection plates, where the appliance comes with pigtails rather than a 13A plug). There would be three cables to each FCU: two from the ring, one for the load.
I beleive so, but if you need to remove units it could be a problem.2a. If I can't have a FCU that's part of the ring mounted inside a cabinet, what about one that's a spur?
As above2b. If I can't have a FCU mounted in a cabinet at all, what are other ideas about where to place them so that they are not immediately visible? (I wanted them in plain view, but my wife objected when I told her we would have six of them: cooker hood, gas hob (for ignition), plinth heater (hydronic), dishwasher, built-in microwave oven, built-in fridge-freezer).
I would put them in a visible position but thats me, otherwise accessibly in the cupboardAlso, can you tell me about the notification process? How do the inspections work, and what happens if they find something that's not satisfactory? Are the inspectors typically helpful, or do they try to discourage DIYers like me?
Speak to BC directly. For us they nominated a local company to do the testing who did a visual check at first fix and then tested on completion. I beleive the regs changed in Jan 08, so I don't know if or what you will be able to do0 -
just this week i've been told from my local bc that even if notifying them, i still need certain minimum c&g electrical qualifications for both installation and testing, so i'm stuffed, (also fitting new kitchen), am currently getting sparks in to quote.Please note, we've had to remove your signature because it was sh*te!0
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adaze, thank you for your answer, very helpful. I don't plan to remove the kitchen cabinets any time soon, and when I do, the fact that they have parts of the ring mains attached to them will be the least of my problems.
bockster, please tell me more about this. I thought that anyone who understands what they are doing and knows how to test the stuff can do the job, as long as it complies to the Wiring Regulations and the relevant part of the Building Regulations, and as long as it is properly notified and inspected. By the way, testing a ring is not particularly easy, and I think you need to test the insulation of any new circuit with a special tester that can put 500 volts d.c. across it (unless there are sensitive electronics on it, such as dimmer switches). I'm not sure whether the BC will do these tests for you, or you have to do them yourself and log the results -- still reading on this.0 -
well, i called my local authority (newcastle under lyme) with the intention of doing the work myself, i did an electrical apprenticeship many moons ago and sat a couple of 16th edition exams (but not inspection and testing). don,t remember if i have an c & g or equivelent qualifications.
anyway the guy said i would need a minimum of c & g 2381 for installation and 2391 for testing, before they would allow me to do the work.
haven't pushed the matter, got a decent quote from sparky (so long as he turns up!) wouldn't be worth paying the £135 notification fee.
you must call your bc and see what they say, let me know if you get a different story, i'd be very interested.
ps he didn't say if this was a new rule from jan 08
good luck, bocksterPlease note, we've had to remove your signature because it was sh*te!0
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