When to replace car?

Belnahua

I can suggest Vredestein Hi-Trac Tyres. They last very well, and I live in a remote area and can get 10k miles out of a set whereas a set of Michelins or Firestones last half that, and Dunlops only 3K! And yes, before anyone comments, our roads *ARE* that bad, single track, pot holed, up/down, sharp bends.

Also Hi-Trac tyres are very good in the wet and give good stopping capabilities in all weathers.

Pew_Pew_Pew_Lasers!

jeannieblue wrote: »

And if the wheel bearing has failed the MOT - then it needs replacing, tighten up, my ap5e.

Not necessarily. They wouldn't have even looked at it, they will have just checked the wheel for play and noted that, provided it wasn't already grinding.

The design of the wheel bearings on my car allow them to be tightened up, its quite easy to do. Maybe you've never worked on a decent motor, I don't know.

Pew_Pew_Pew_Lasers!

Crazy_Diamond wrote: »

What most concerns me was the engine - the garage suggested that it may need to be replaced on the basis of it being rattly - is this likely? Should I be worried? It was making a rattly noise which was the reason I took it in for an early service but since the service the noise seems to have stopped - could it just have needed an oil change? - the oil had not be changed since the last service in June 2007.

Noises can be anything, it could be pinking, old oil, loose exhaust, dripping injector, impossible to say over the internet

Crazy_Diamond wrote: »

I am also a bit annoyed about the tyres. They were all replaced in June last year and were not cheap, Dunlops at around £80 each from BlackCircle!
The readings are now N/S front - 2/4/2 (and cut in side wall) pass, O/S front 2/4/1.6 (cut in tyre) fail, O/S rear 4/6/3, N/S rear 3/5/3.
What could have caused this uneven wear after about 10,000 miles? - I had them aligned when fitted. One of the advisory notes said 'nearside and offside anti-roll bar linkage has slight play in a ball joint' - could this be to blame?

The ARB linkages will make the ride more uncomfortable but are unlikely to wear the tyres down much. I'd suggest taking your car for a full geometry check using laser alignment. It costs me about £90 to do it on mine but it is well worth the expense.

tomstickland

Pew_Pew_Pew_Lasers! wrote: »

Not necessarily. They wouldn't have even looked at it, they will have just checked the wheel for play and noted that, provided it wasn't already grinding.

The design of the wheel bearings on my car allow them to be tightened up, its quite easy to do. Maybe you've never worked on a decent motor, I don't know.

My Astra GTE failed on rear wear bearing play a few times and all I'd do was take it home and adjust the bearing nut a bit. The design relied on a nut being adjusted to preload the bearings. Get it loose and the wheel would wobble a bit, go too tight and it'd bind. It was quite a subjective adjustment to make and they would work a bit loose over time sometimes.

big_gay_kirk

If i had to pay 600 quid to get a car through an MOT i'd get a new car.. my current car cost 250 quid five years back.. not counting petrol, insurance and tax, total costs over 48,000 miles in that time are so far 420 quid... and that includes a new set of boots from National (80 quid for all four) three years back.. although admittedly they are due fro replacement... look round the breakers, and do the work yourself... lets be honest, you'd most probably get it all done in a few hours for under 200 quid.... must be worth missing Eastenders for...