Skoda Felicia Exhaust-spare Parts ?

ampersand

Hello,
I have a very forgiving P-reg Skoda Felicia(laugh now, everyone)whose exhaust pipe broke from back end of muffler. Local scrapman put a bit of pipe in(pending arrival of suitable corpse to yard)but it is not more than a stopgap.
I feel mugged by 2 years of MOT repair @ local garage(a fair amount scaremongering and needless, I now know - I was just trying to be loyal, against my better judgment)and will return next year to my distant, but trusted fenboys. I'm going to look for sites online, but is there anything I should/shouldn't know/do? Any repair/parts bill will be a struggle, albeit an essential one.
Do I need a whole system, or just the back part?
I welcome replies from Peeps Who Know about these things.
(Previous problem with rear window was fixed next day by Ops Mgr at Charity where I volunteer - window is not designed to be opened past a certain point for kiddie lock safety)
The other thing that happened yesterday is that left front passenger door lock stopped working with key, but does work from inside, using button only.
Back to my Haynes, I think..........
Thankyou for any helpful advice.
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Have found this so far - is it the right thing?
http://www.onlineautomotive.co.uk/view_cart.phpaction=update_postage&price=9.95&promo_codex=&return_link=&product_ref=&manufacturer=46&model=359&engine=4&model_type=57077&product_cat=1&product_type=4&keywords=

Thunderbird_2

Hi

I don't know much about Skoda, but, I know somebody will know, anewman is your man when it comes to Skoda!

I like the shape of the P reg Felicia, by the way!

Pew_Pew_Pew_Lasers!

You'll probably need the back section. It won't cost much, and if you want to save money you could do it yourself. Exhausts are usually difficult to separate, a mallet and screwdriver is often required.

The good news is that once apart, they're very simple to install and hang.

Please get some axle stands if you want to do it yourself. Don't work under a car supported only by a jack.

anewman

The rear exhaust section is held on with two or three rubber hangers and is clamped to the center section with an exhaust clamp in conjunction with that exhaust gum stuff. Unless someone has changed the exhaust hangers to O ring generic one's they'll be quite tricky to get off properly, but suppose you could chop them off if you have any difficulties. You can use the O ring generic ones in conjunction with a cable tie to secure it.

Give the cheapie exhaust places in yellow pages a ring around first, there's a place in Leeds that would do a rear section for either £35 or £40 (can't remember which price) including fitting and VAT. Considering that rear sections are £31 delivered here http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SKODA-Favorit-Felicia-1-3-93-01-Exhaust-Rear-Silencer_W0QQitemZ190217420515QQcmdZViewItem and also at the place you link to, that's under a tenner to take away all the hassle of getting the bits to fit it and fitting it (if you can find a similarly priced place near you).

I would go for a none genuine new exhaust over a scrappy unless it's known to be relatively new. As with all exhausts, they rust inside out so can look good on the outside and can go at any time.

So long as the improvised pipe is fixed in well and there are no or absolute minimal leaks from the back box at that area (and everywhere else on the back box) it will pass the MOT. Unfortunately the paste things you would use to try fix any leaks wouldn't last long but could be a cheap get you through the MOT option if hard pressed for cash.

If you have any more questions or problems there's a good forum at www.briskoda.net with a Felicia section :beer:

On the lock, does it spin around with no resistance with the key? If so it will probably be just the rod pictured below has either come loose or broken (you should be able to get a new one from a shop called Jorily skoda on ebay). If the key won't turn, the lock itself is probably broken. The lock is simply replaced by sliding the metal bit behind it and removing the connecting rod, cheap option would be to get hold of a suitable lock and key and to fit the lock to the one door, then you will have 2 keys, but at least you won't need to pay a locksmith to code the lock to your existing key. The only annoying thing on the Felicia would be you will need to keep the key for the door away from the ignition key if it has an immobiliser code on it.

Getting to the lock is quite tricky. You have to remove the door cards first, on my Favorit which is the model the Felicia is based on, it's a case of unscrewing the lock pull, then there's a cover on the door handle and window winder that will pop off with a small thin flat jewelers screwdriver, then they need unscrewing and removing, remember to remove the plastic bit behind the door opening handle. On mine it's 3 screws then the panel comes unclipped, and in the centre is one clip that will probably break, you can either try sliding the card forward or just pull it away and the clip will either snap or pull out, you can buy new clips quite cheaply from dealers if the card ends up rattling afterwards. Disconnect the speaker terminals.

Then the best approach is to get some mole grips and pull out the plastic bits that the card clipped on to and peel back the plastic liner. There will be a plastic guard over the lock secured with two metal clips to the metal of the door and an 8mm nut to the exterior door handle retainer. The plastic guard itself is very tricky to remove but it can be achieved, you need to sort of grab both sides, squeeze and manouevre it out - this will take a while to do. The other option which I have seen someone do is smash it to pieces with a screwdriver and leave it out. The lock guard can be left out as all it's intended to do is stop the coathanger down the side of the window theft attempts.


PS. It will look something like this but not the same as Felicia has the double sided keys.

As the Felicia keys are double sided, they might not be handed so you may be able to swap the drivers side with the passenger side if the lock is broken so that the lock is broken on the passenger side instead.

terryw

FWIIW I too have an older car and I check EBAY daily for spare parts. I have bought exhausts, starter motors. brake pads, shoes, air and oil filters, ball-joints.....in fact any bit which is likely to need replacement, and just keep them in the shed until they are needed. There are some real bargains on this type of stuff on EBAY. For example full exhaust with cat was almost £400 from dealer but the one in the shed cost me £40 from EBAY.

terryw

ampersand

Please may I thank you all, especially anewman, for the phenomenal and detailed advice. Yes,(female, 59 moi - not quite sure how it happened, far too big a number for how I feel)I've decided on a new bit, if nothing suitable is quickly available. I've read Haynes for the lock biz(it is left-front, hence passenger)- key simply turns to no effect. I managed to remove the rear door panels for the prev. prob, so will try with the front one and see how I get on.
I'll report back when all is done.
I'm looking on ebay now.
Thankyou all, yet again.

ampersand

Ops Mgr at Charity where I volunteer called mechanic friend in middle of nowhere. Good man, who said 'Come and see' - middle and end section were kaput, full of holes and barely hanging there.
Yesterday, had both parts fitted, new, with guarantee - £74. Quickly done, I barely had time to settle back into cow parsley on sunny bank, read, give horses an apple or two. Saw the parts charge in ref. book - no labour charge made because of call from S.
Such a relief and so much less than I feared, given my searches/ebay/phonecalls.
Thankyou all - can recommend a good chap apx 5 miles from here..........:D