Fitting new MDF skirting to uneven wall

theLearner_3

hi all,

i'm trying to finish off a project which has taken far too long one of the last things i need to do is fit new mdf skirting to an uneven wall.

basically this is one of the walls which is thicker at bottom (in line with the laminate floor)



And so when i offer up the new skirting the gap between the wall and the top of the skirting is far too big to fill with filler/caulk ( i can nearly put my little finger down the gap!)



Can anyone suggest how i can deal with this? I was thinking of buying a small grinder and working it against the wall to make it more even - Any help / suggestions will be greatly appreciated

ukwoody

Two choices. take off the bulge pretty much as suggested, but you might damage the floor, or what we do is to fix a thin batten to the rear of the skirting. This means the top is a bit wider, but it barely notices when it's painted and gives a tidy finish.

woody

OddjobKIA

with a bolster chisel or cold chisel chip away the blocking at the bottom where it sticks out..

a ginder would do the job but one small slip and you could ruin your floor..


another alternative is to make the step obvious use a piece of 2x1 along the wall first then attach the skirting to this..or make it wider and use it to display items on????

adaze

Use no more nails, combined with the "hammer-in" type screw fixings (wickes sell them), spread these out along the length and they should bring in the skirting enough. Then just will the small gap that will be left at the top with decorators filler or similar.

phill99

Take off the excess with a a bolster chisel and club halmmer. Where the skirting sits proud of the wall, drill a hole through the skirting with a 4mm wood bit into the masonary just so it marks the masonary. Using a countersink bit, countersink the hole in the skirting so that the screw head will be 'lost'. Remove the skirting. Using a masonary bit (7mm), drill a hole in the wall where it has been marked, and put an appropriate rawl plug or similar into the hole. Put loads of 'No nails' on the back of the skirting and stick it to the wall. In the screw hole in the skirting that you have just couintersunk put a 1" No 8 Pozidrive Screw and screw in to the wall. Cover the screw head with a little filler and fill the gap on the top of the skirting with caulking.

theLearner_3

ukwoody wrote: »

Two choices. take off the bulge pretty much as suggested, but you might damage the floor, or what we do is to fix a thin batten to the rear of the skirting. This means the top is a bit wider, but it barely notices when it's painted and gives a tidy finish.

woody

thanks for your input - damaging the floor is a concern of mine. Didn't think of inserting a thin batten - cheers for the suggestion;)

theLearner_3

OddjobKIA wrote: »

with a bolster chisel or cold chisel chip away the blocking at the bottom where it sticks out..

a ginder would do the job but one small slip and you could ruin your floor..


another alternative is to make the step obvious use a piece of 2x1 along the wall first then attach the skirting to this..or make it wider and use it to display items on????

Thanks for your suggestions - the other small problem i've got is that the skirting will butt-up to 3 door frames, 2 nice and easy straight joins and the 3rd frame is at 90degrees to the offending wall if that makes sense? (door frame in the very corner of the room)

cheers once again

theLearner_3

adaze wrote: »

Use no more nails, combined with the "hammer-in" type screw fixings (wickes sell them), spread these out along the length and they should bring in the skirting enough. Then just will the small gap that will be left at the top with decorators filler or similar.

unfortunately the thicker bit at the bottom means that (at the moment) to get the skirting nearly flush so that you could caulk the small gap, it'd end up not sitting flat against the wooden floor - the bottom edge sits up and you can see the skirting isn't sitting properly when you stand back and look at it. The gap is too big and the skirting is too thick (18mm) to be pulled in by any fittings - a real pain! :mad:

theLearner_3

phill99 wrote: »

Take off the excess with a a bolster chisel and club halmmer. Where the skirting sits proud of the wall, drill a hole through the skirting with a 4mm wood bit into the masonary just so it marks the masonary. Using a countersink bit, countersink the hole in the skirting so that the screw head will be 'lost'. Remove the skirting. Using a masonary bit (7mm), drill a hole in the wall where it has been marked, and put an appropriate rawl plug or similar into the hole. Put loads of 'No nails' on the back of the skirting and stick it to the wall. In the screw hole in the skirting that you have just couintersunk put a 1" No 8 Pozidrive Screw and screw in to the wall. Cover the screw head with a little filler and fill the gap on the top of the skirting with caulking.

Thanks very much for this - not sure whether to risk a grinder or take the slower but safer chisel route.

I bought the skirting from my local Timber/Wood yard who assured me its been treated so as not to react to any damp - just wondering if its ok to use a good water-based filler like Tetrion to fill the holes i drill in the skirting prior to filling? Or should i use a different filler?

many thanks for this

phill99

theLearner wrote: »

Thanks very much for this - not sure whether to risk a grinder or take the slower but safer chisel route.

I bought the skirting from my local Timber/Wood yard who assured me its been treated so as not to react to any damp - just wondering if its ok to use a good water-based filler like Tetrion to fill the holes i drill in the skirting prior to filling? Or should i use a different filler?

many thanks for this

Tetron is fine. Just make sure you use galvanised screws so that the water in the tetron doesn't rust the screw head and bleed through.

theLearner_3

great, thanks very much indeed for everyones help. A busy day or two coming up... :rotfl: