moisture barrier with real wood worktops?

kymrob

is it right you need a moisture barrier with real wood worktops and sinks
can anyone tell me where and how you attach it? what is it and where can you get one?

jennifernil

When you make the cutout for the sink you should treat the cut edges copiously with oil, Danish Oil is the best. You should do the same round the hob. The underside of all the tops should also be treated before installation.

You can get a clear self adhesive plastic strip to fix on the underside where you have a dishwasher or washing machine that could release warm, moist air. I have seen this advised, some appliance manufacturers provide them. Places selling kitchens might have them.

We have had solid beech tops for 20 years, we have no protective strip above our dishwasher, but did seal them all well on the underside. We have had no problems.

I think these strips are advised for all worktops these days.

An alternative for formica/melamine chipboard tops is to seal cuts and vulnerable surfaces with a thin coat of silicone sealant.

ukwoody

Barrier paper is used under the worktop in the spaces for dishwashers and sometimes washing machines. Howdens sell it. Their one uses PVA to attach it with.
All solid wood worktops should be well sealed with oil on all surfaces, you MUST follow the instructions from the worktop manufacturers otherwise the warenty is void, and all solid wood manufacturers insist on the usage of a vapour barrier above dishwashers due to the release of steam.

You do not need the barrier paper anywhere else, but as Jennifer has said all cutouts should be well sealed with Oil/varnish/silicon.

Don't forget you will need to regularly re-oil the worktops once in use.

woody

adaze

We have a solid wood worktop from wickes, it recommends regular linseed oil. It also says you can use clear varnish on the underside near dishwasher doors to protect from moisture. No mention of any vapour barrier though...

kymrob

ok thanks will look in to getting this
we were told just reg tin foil works well!
but i do want it tidy! the worktops cost a fortune so a few extra pounds to look after them is worth it

matty_hunt

adaze wrote: »

We have a solid wood worktop from wickes, it recommends . It also says you can use clear varnish on the underside near dishwasher doors to protect from moisture. No mention of any vapour barrier though...

Hi. Im about to install walnut tops in my kitchen so read this post with interest.

Using varnish on the underside sounds like a good idea. Could the wood be oiled to feed it then varnish over to seal it in wet areas? Or will varnish not take once area was oil in it? Any views on using varnish as a barrier?

Adaze, "regular linseed oil" do you mean 'raw' linseed oil rather than 'boiled'? How do you find it? Linseed is much cheaper than other oils but I was led to believe that it doesnt totally dry but remains tacky.

jennifernil

I would rather use the oil on the underside,I would think it will protect much better than varnish. And you are correct, the varnish will not go on over new oil.

The Danish Oil is the best, it is very reasonably priced at Toolstation and Screwfix. Also sometimes called Rustic Oil. A little goes a very long way.

As I said, we have no vapour barrier above our dishwasher, so today I had a feel of the underside of the worktop above the dishwasher. In 20 years it has not been affected in any way, but then I do not usually open the dishwasher until it has cooled down, so get little or no steam escaping.