Tool to cut a slot down the back of a worktop

Lemoncurd

We need to cut a narrow slot along the back of our kitchen worktop in order to fit a stainless steel splashback which has a thin lip designed to fit behind the worktop. The splashback is mounted on 1cm thick piece of wood which would cover 1cm of the worktop in front of the slot.
The kitchen was already fitted and it would not be a simple job to take the worktop out as there are cupboards fitted directly on top of it.
Does anyone have any ideas of a tool that we could use? we've tried drilling along but because of the wall you can't angle the drill vertically down and the worktop surface is quite hard so the bit just kept on slipping into the wall instead. My dad mentioned that there is a bit that you can put onto a drill to do this kind of job but I haven't found anything, any ideas?

FairyElephant_2

I think you need a router....don't know if you can get a router bit to fit an ordinary drill.
I picked up a cheap router for £15 last year for my o/h when he needed to do a similar-sounding job, and he's found it very useful for several other things since.

g33za

a router would do the job however if you need to cut the slot by the wall the router will not be able to reach as the guard and the machine itself would prevent that.

You might need to use an angle grinder but you will really need to plan all your work, I would first using masking tape to draw the line where you want the slot cut and cover the entire remaining part of the worktop so none of it is damaged as you do the job.

HTH

Robboseven

When we had some laminate flooring laid we didn't want the ugly cover strips around the edge of the skirting boards (bear with me) The fitter used small circular saw which laid flat on the floor. He slid this along the skirting board and it cut a slot to slide the boards under and eliminated the need for cover strips.

I can't see why this wouldn't work using one horizontally slid along the wall to cut a slot in the worktop. Apparently you can hire them although I haven't checked.

Hope this helps

Mr_Proctalgia

You need one of these:-

http://www.feinmultimaster.co.uk/

See a video if it in action here

http://www.joneakes.com/fein/FEINDE~104.html

They are expensive but do what they say on the can, I use mine a lot especially for laying laminates, even to shortening doors without removing them! And cutting out doorstops and the architraving.

Hope this helps

Robboseven

That's the boy!

ManAtHome

Your dad may be thinking of the RotoZip bit - I think JML were selling them a couple of years ago. Not sure whether this would work as it's basically a bit which can drill and cut sideways (combined drill/router type thing) so you'd still need to get very close to the wall.

Alternative may be a Dremel type cutting disk - these are just a smaller version of the angle-grinder suggested by gaz.

chodges84

I would try a dremel or black and deckers 'Wizard' machine.

Both are the same as the one above, but don't cost as much :-)

i dont know if the blades would be big enough to cut through a worktop, but they should be.

attritioner

I had the same problem, what I did was used a screwdriver to chip some of the plaster where it meets the worktop. Chip away just enough to allow the edge of the splashback to slip in. Then use some gripfil on the back of the splashback, and a few mirror screws to hold it in place.

If you do decide to cut the lip off the splashback get an angle grinder and buy a blade designed for cutting stainless steel. They are thinner than standard blades and make the job far easier. I had to trim the edge of my splashback and used a standard cutting blade, resulting in a slighly burned looking metal with the heat :-(

Good luck.

andy88_2

I really don't like the angle grinder idea to cut a slot or even the metal. It's very difficult to keep it steady.

And it will be difficult to get a router type tool, even those Dremel or the other one, Roto-zip, against the wall and steady enough; if you brace against the wall you're relying on the wall being straight as well.

I think you will need to move the worktop away a bit, clamp a long piece of wood on top and parallel to the edge as a guide, and run the fence or guide on the tool along it.

You can cover up minor confusions, but if you do it less carefully than this I think you'll be disappointed and have to look at it for some time...

g33za

you'll be able to get a straight cut if you use a piece of timber as the guide (kinda like drawing a line with a ruler). Obviously the timber would need to be secure so it doesnt move etc. But that fein mentioned above definately looks like the right tool for the job. You can probably hire one from the well known hire establishments.