Cheap DIY underfloor heating solution

IqbalMustaffa

Some of my friends have told me you can lay strips of 10-12mm MDF board across the entire wooden floor and then feed 10mm copper pipe through the gaps and connect this to the normal boiler system.

You can then put insulation and laminate flooring over this.

The system would run at 82 degrees as opposed to the lower level that standard underfloor heating systems run at. This would allow me to connect the underfloor heating system and conventional radiators to the same condensing boiler systems. It would also be cheaper and easier than using screed, mats, etc.

Has anyone else tried this?
Can anyone see any problems with this?
Would the temperature control valves allow you to regulate the temperature effectively so the floor doesn't overheat?

Any input would be much appreciated.

Thanks

pdrskint

done it many times and it works, i put foil over floor and screw down lathes eith gaps to allow pipes to pass then use 10m poly pipe. zig zaged .
poly pipe has actualy introduced a system to do the same i think its a bit dear , but i am tight, tile over floor ideal for kitchen or bathrooms

fudgit-budget

I would worry putting laminate flooring down, the heat might affect the finish / how it fits together?

Canucklehead

Hi

I think the general idea is to direct the heat up into the room rather than stifle it and let it heat up the sub floor,and regulate the heat so you don't roast the cat/dog.
I would suggest you do a little research (eg manufacturers web sites) and base a plan on that rather than word of mouth from friends.;)
Then come back and ask questions ,if you have any.
Corgi Guy.

IqbalMustaffa

Thanks for your comments so far.

I have had a look and the basic set up of an underfloor system is: a manifold consisting of a thermostat, circulating pump, mixers, flow and drain point.

The purpose of the manifold is mainly to regulate the temperature at up to 50 degrees. The poly pipe connects to the flow and return connections of the manifold and the flow and drain point returns water to the boiler.

My set-up:
25mm Kingspan TP10 boards
sheet of hardboard
12mm MDF with 10mm copper pipe embedded within
underlay
laminate

I would have 3 rooms where there is a flow and return with a thermostatic mixing valve (or simple temperature control valve). 10mm copper pipe would be spread across the rooms and connect to the flow and return. The system would run off a Baxi Duotec 24 condensing boiler.

I don't think the heat is being stifled as only the underlay and laminate is between the pipe and room (the same set-up as any underfloor system more or less). I also don't see heat loss being a problem as the only way for the heat to go is up into the room.

As far as I can tell this means that the radiator system will use the 60 degrees plus water but the thermostatic mixing valve will restrict the water in the underfloor system to around the 50 degrees mark.

I have read that most boilers should not be run with a return temp. lower than 40-45 degrees. I don't see this as a major issue as the return water from the underfloor set up will combine with the higher temp. return water from the radiator system.

If this set up (which I now realise is just a crude version of the manifold system) is feasible, would I need 3 pumps to push the water around the underfloor loops, or would simple diffusion take care of this?

Thanks in advance