Damp in Upstairs walls

dixie_dean_2

Has anyone got dot and dab? We don't have cavity wall insulation (we don't have cavities) and have heard this may help but a quick look online seems to throw up mainly negative comments. Had the bedroom window open a crack last night and massively reduced condensation so feeling positive about that. thanks again.

dstill

Sue-UU wrote: »

Hi David,

It's great to see you on this thread. Is it possible for you to fully answer dixie_dean's questions above please? I have my own ideas re the wallpaper and plaster, but would be far happier for a professional to give him advice if you will please.

Many thanks indeed, Sue

Hi Sue,

Answers to the questions as requested.

Most windows will take trickle vents but are a little bit more difficult to retrofit after installation. Sliding box sash windows would be tricky.

Basically it is necessary to drill holes through the top edge of the window frame (whether it be timber or uPVC) or a slot. After this is done a trickle vent can be fitted to both sides of the window frame, both inner and outer.

Answer to the question about stripping the plaster off depends on the severity of the dampness problem. Providing the initial dampness problem has been rectified and the wall is drying out without any degradation of the plaster then a mould killer should be used to kill off the mould.

After this i think it is always a good idea to seal the plaster to prevent any staining bleaching through any new decorative coating. This can be done with a mixture of PVA glue and water. If the plaster work has crumbled then it should obviously be replasterd.

Hope this helps but let me know if you need any more info.

David

dstill

dixie_dean wrote: »

Has anyone got dot and dab? We don't have cavity wall insulation (we don't have cavities) and have heard this may help but a quick look online seems to throw up mainly negative comments. Had the bedroom window open a crack last night and massively reduced condensation so feeling positive about that. thanks again.

Dixie Dean,

Dot and dab is generally used to mask the problem by unscruplious builders. This is not always the case though. Some people do this to ensure the problem does not manifest itself, kind of belt and braces job.

My advice would be resolve the defect and if you want to be 100% sure dot and dab the walls. This also helps to keep the inner surface of the walls warmer and reduce the possibility of thermal bridging in the locaiton of the cold spots. This is the practice used mainly on solid walls.

:beer:David

benood

You can get bathroom fans which automatically switch on when humidity goes over a certain level. Have a look for humidistat fans on google.

Re box sashes - someone told me once that a typical sash window without ventrolla style draught proofing lets a trickle of air through anyway so no need for trickle vents.

Finally it may be expensive but turning the heating up (or keeping on constantly at low level) may help - a warmer structure is less susciptible to condensation - it will take a few weeks to work, however so perhaps an idea for next winter!

Sue-UU

dstill wrote: »

Hi Sue,

Answers to the questions as requested.

Most windows will take trickle vents but are a little bit more difficult to retrofit after installation. Sliding box sash windows would be tricky.

Basically it is necessary to drill holes through the top edge of the window frame (whether it be timber or uPVC) or a slot. After this is done a trickle vent can be fitted to both sides of the window frame, both inner and outer.

Answer to the question about stripping the plaster off depends on the severity of the dampness problem. Providing the initial dampness problem has been rectified and the wall is drying out without any degradation of the plaster then a mould killer should be used to kill off the mould.

After this i think it is always a good idea to seal the plaster to prevent any staining bleaching through any new decorative coating. This can be done with a mixture of PVA glue and water. If the plaster work has crumbled then it should obviously be replasterd.

Hope this helps but let me know if you need any more info.

David

Hi David and thank you so very much for your very full answer to dixie dean's questions. Not only might it be very helpful to him, but other members looking for answers to such queries too. Thanks so much and a warm welcome to the Forum. Sue

dixie_dean_2

What kind of tradesmen is best suited to doing some of this work for us? I'm crap with DIY, well, I just don't know much, but pretty sure my dad and/or father-in-law can do the trickle vents, we will strip the wallpaper and do the painting, but who would be best to decide if the plaster needs completley redoing or just skimming, the dot and dab and the sealing of the plaster? Are there any damp/mould experts?

Thanks for the 20th time.

dstill

dixie_dean wrote: »

What kind of tradesmen is best suited to doing some of this work for us? I'm crap with DIY, well, I just don't know much, but pretty sure my dad and/or father-in-law can do the trickle vents, we will strip the wallpaper and do the painting, but who would be best to decide if the plaster needs completley redoing or just skimming, the dot and dab and the sealing of the plaster? Are there any damp/mould experts?

Thanks for the 20th time.

Hi,

There certainly are damp experts who will diagnose, provide a quotation and carry out the work if you decide to do so. It may be worth getting a reputable general builder to have a look initially. If it just requires reskimming due to the old plaster being affected by dampness a general builder will be appropriate, as long as the dampness problem you had in the first place is rectified.

If you do have any dampness remedial works done ask if they will provide an insurabce backed guarantee. Be sure to ask if they are guaranteeing the workmanship as well as the products they use if they do decide specialist chemicals, renovsating plasters etc are required.

Thanks
David

dixie_dean_2

Just bought a chemical moisture remover thing, like a little box that removes the moisture from the air. Has anyone used these, got tips or recommendations for the best type or make?

Cheers.