Central heating Problem (rad not heating and noisy pump) PLEASE HELP!!

totalsolutions

hi Normally (think about where you would put one to drain down all the water)
a) high up above the water tank or
b)on the lowest point or
c)in the middle some where?







Find a low point in the house/flat there is a take off point for a garden hose to fit onto.

You could use a vax vac. m/c to suck on this point??

kyleweb

thanks, seem to have found it (already had a bit of hose attached to it) however cant seem to turn the valve (is a little square end similar to bleeding valve on radiators but a bit bigger)

will need to ahve a look in diy store and try to find something to open it with

totalsolutions

small adjustable spanner 1/4" or 6-8mm spanner, spray with oil (penatrating) or WD40 first. When you open it just a few turns will do, turning anti clockwise

kyleweb

totalsolutions wrote: »

small adjustable spanner 1/4" or 6-8mm spanner, spray with oil (penatrating) or WD40 first. When you open it just a few turns will do, turning anti clockwise

bah still completly stuck despite a liberal coating of wd40 and about 30mins trying to get it open with and adjustable spanner

In such a hard to reach place as well. Almost have to reach around the boiler to try and get to it.

May have to admit defeat soon and just put up with cold water and no heat until I can afford the stupid expensive london plumber call out fees!

Canucklehead

May have to admit defeat soon and just put up with cold water and no heat until I can afford the stupid expensive london plumber call out fees!

Hi

Fortunately I don't live or work in London any more, so I'm not too offended.

I would leave that drain off alone if it's behind the boiler it's been heated up for years and will be next to useless.
If you have a small rad somewhere I would take that off and drain from there.

Useful info here......http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/

Corgi Guy.

kyleweb

Just drained from the radiator and all went fine but then went to check the tank (i had tied up the ballcock) it was still full of water :mad:

Does this mean there is a blockage somewhere or either air or gunk or some description?


All I can say, is that with all this free advice you are giving that I am sure you are worth every penny of what you charge.

Canucklehead

Hi

The cold feed is blocked so the tank will remain full.The system dries out via the open vent.
Siphon it out and start cutting out where it tees in as previously described.You will have water in the pipe so be prepared for a bit of mopping up.
If you cut with a hacksaw make sure you clean all the sharp edges off, particularly if you use push fit with 'o' rings ( I personally don't use them unless I have to.)
Good luck

Corgi Guy.

kyleweb

right taken the day off work to sort this.

Thanks for all your help corgi.

What would you suggest using instead of the o-ring push to fit? would it be the solder joints instead?

Canucklehead

Hi

Solder or compression.
I think in your case compression (I don't know how good your soldering is;))

When you refill put some inhibitor in.I think your system could do with a good flush but in the short term inhibitor will help.Pumps are the first item to suffer as the magnetic oxide sticks to the impeller/motor shaft.
I would suggest filling to test that you have cleared the pipework and it all fills ok, fire up and drain down whilst hot.
Then fill with inhibitor.(might save a bottle of inhibitor ,not cheap is it?)

Have a good day

Corgi Guy.

kyleweb

definitely the cold water feed. I have taken a section off and it is completely full with black gunk.

just trying to unblock it all now and then will do as suggested.

Thanks again for all your help. Spoke to a couple of plumbers who said that they would suggest a powerflush and cheapest of the two was £300 plus call out fees and hourly charge!!!