Hot water in electric only studio flat

Section62

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82169592#Comment_82169592

so would be hesitant to try anything myself

That would be wise - you need to be extra careful with control systems and/or heating.

It looks like the upper heating element isn't connected to anything - has it always been like that?

As an aside, is your microwave plugged in to that extension lead? That can be dangerous - especially if it is a combi oven.

Ectophile

It may be that the timer has failed. In which case, it should be reasonably straightforward to replace.

The alternatives will cost quite a bit - new electrics and new plumbing. An electric shower requires a dedicated 40 or 45A circuit. Maybe 32A if you get a weedy 7.5kW shower.

Albermarle

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82169579#Comment_82169579

I have been on to gledhill and they have a fixed cost repair service for £358

That seems very expensive to me, just for a hot water tank with an immersion heater. I would try and find a local electrician.

WIAWSNB

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82169579#Comment_82169579

'Boiler', to us, usually refers to a separate device that heats water, and then sends it to things like a hot cylinder and stuff. You appear to be referring to the Gledhill itself, which is a tank with a couple of immersion elements - it heats the water just like a kettle does. Ok, a boiler.

Good spot by S62 re the unwired upper immersion element, and wouldn't it be great if the ideal solution lay there!

IF the fault is a blown lower element and/or its integral thermostat, and IF the upper element is actually fine as it's never been used, then a quick swap of the wiring would be your answer. It would also come with the added benefit of a much smaller amount of water being heated, which is presumably what you are after?

To swap the supply would be a 30 minute job for a sparky.

However, I also noticed the Timeguard is 'dead'. Have you turned it off at its supply? If you haven't, that would potentially suggest another simple fix, in that either a fuse has blown, or a MCB tripped ( although you'd need to find the cause).

Personally, I'd get your local friendly sparky in to assess - he'll either fix it easily, or direct you to the 'bigger' cause.

Before going for the FPR, I'd ensure it includes the Timeguard.

danrv

As pointed out, it looks as though the upper boost element isn't connected. This would normally be on a 24hr feed, seperate from the switched low rate circuit. Power to the timer and water pumps run from this also.

If there's no power to the system and the reset button doesn't help, check the fuse board/consumer unit. It may be that the single heating element has failed and caused a switch to trip. If on E7, the heater circuit would be live from around 12 - 7am. There may an isolation switch near the boiler too.

Swipe

If you are getting someone out and it's the main heating element that has blown, just get that replaced rather than rewiring to the top one as suggested. They are not expensive, probably approx £40 for the part.

burntrose

It looks like the upper heating element isn't connected to anything - has it always been like that?

As far as I know, I certainly haven't made any changes to it since it was installed.

I also noticed the Timeguard is 'dead'. Have you turned it off at its supply?

Yes, sorry, should have turned it back on for the photo - I switched off the isolation switch thing after it stopped working. The timer still seemed to be working fine before, but when I switched it on now it is showing a code 'A5CO'

If there's no power to the system and the reset button doesn't help, check the fuse board/consumer unit. It may be that the single heating element has failed and caused a switch to trip.

I tried resetting the timer, and that didnt do anything. Is there a reset switch on the actual cylinder?

The fuse for the water heater wasn't tripped on the regular fuse board for the flat if that's what you mean? (none of them were).

The below is what Gledhill said when i messaged them - is this still pricey when including parts, labour and the annual service? I am clueless about how much these things generally cost!

We can offer a fixed price repair for this though which includes all parts, labour and call out fees as well as the breakdown agreement/annual service, this is priced at £358.

Ectophile

If you haven't already done so, turn off the power and take off the cover over the end of the immersion element. Check to see if there is an overheat cutout that's tripped. If you're lucky, pushing it back in again may fix it.

WIAWSNB

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82170225#Comment_82170225

ASCO is apparently Auto Summer Change Over, and is seemingly the first choice you are given when setting up the timer after it's been turned off for an extended period. It has a built-in battery that then stores this info in the event of a power cut.

So, all normal.

You need to read the instructions in order to set the timer up again, but all seems fine, and clearly your power supply to it is ok too - no blown fuses:

https://docs.rs-online.com/37f3/A700000008715805.pdf

I'd forgotten about the immersion element's thermostat safety cutout pointed out by Ecto. That's another good possibility, which would need no new parts at all, but just someone to check it and reset it, by someone electrically aware aware enough to be safe.

This is basic stuff, and the majority of folk could carry this out, but I'm not going to suggest you try as I don't know if you are one of the minority who cannot 😊

Since the power supply and timer are almost certainly working fine, I still think the obvious way forward is to get a sparky - or electrically competent handyperson - in to confirm the fault. It seems a tossup betwixt a blown element (they'll all go at some point), a failed thermostat (quite rare), or a tripped safety cutout (less rare). The last two of these are very easy and cheap fixes, and do not require the tank to be drained.

If the actual immersion element has failed, you seemingly have two choices - one is to replace it, which will need a G3-qualified plumber, and the other is to wire up the higher element instead.

For this option, you'd need to be certain it'll still heat enough hot water for a day's use. Read the Gledhill specs, and check the two volumes.

burntrose

Thank you so much! I will have a look and see if I can see a reset button, and if not sure, will get a sparky in to look at it as you suggest.