Adding guttering to a Tiger garden shed

WIAWSNB

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82165169#Comment_82165169

You screw upwards from the inside - wallplate to roof frame. Or, a few metal screw-plates along each side. I'd suggest that replacing the roof is the easy bit; removing it and sorting the shiplap will be more tricky.

And, yes, there are other benefits to moving the shed, such as getting access to treating the fence side.

Just saying that if a priority for the OP is to not extend the plinth or otherwise move the shed, then I think there is a simple solution which will take a bit of work (but certainly no more than laying extra slabs), but little or no cost. And working in wood is always nicer than digging and laying. You'd fit a gutter along the front to stop the rain going down yer neck.

Edit: just checked the Tiger website, and - yes - the roof is seemingly a pre-made framed panel, nailed through from above, and then covered in felt. So, yes, to remove it without damaging the felt would require slicing through the nails inside (unless it can be prised off). The nail positions would appear to be aimed at the vertical wall 'studs', so should hopefully be easy to locate - and then vibe'd through. But, I don't know.

Looking at the OP's pic of the shed, whoever built it didn't overlap the roof evenly in the first place, so that could be sorted at the same time.

Section62

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82165192#Comment_82165192

And, rotating the roof might be a no-extra-parts-required option.

I don't know about Tiger sheds, but shed boarding is usually attached using a pneumatic nailgun, with nails which aren't designed to come out. I'd be surprised if the OP could get that shiplap(?) off the frame without splitting some of it - especially as some of it will be thin/tapered - and there will be some double nailing to give the frame structural rigidity. If a nailgun was used then the nail heads are probably a third or half-way through the wood, so attempting to prise the wood away without first removing the nails (nearly impossible) will probably result in pull-through and splitting.

I would budget for replacing at least some of the shiplap, as well as needing to treat it, and living with a mis-match in colour unless the whole shed is given a new finish.

I've done similar to what you are suggesting on an old 10'x8' shed (to raise the height by about 8"). Even with the tools and workshop it was about 2 week's spare-time work. I'd say a handyperson would need at least a day to do what you've suggested with the OP's shed. And some of it will need a handyperson plus a mate, so budget for at least 2 person days.

Alternatively, take the heavy stuff out of the shed. Lift the corner with a garden spade to get a roller (e.g. a piece of broomhandle) under the base, then slide it forward by the required amount. (being very careful with fingers while the shed is off the ground)

WIAWSNB

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82165221#Comment_82165221

Yes, it's one of these jobs that can go smoothly or nightmarishly.

But, I think that one of these -

would make short shrift of this, roof and 'lap.

In theory…

FreeBear

Answering the original question, Yes I have fitted guttering to a Tiger shed. Both mine are apex rather than a pent roof.

I got a length of 2"x1" roofing batten to screw the brackets to. Batten was then fixed to the shed making sure the screws went in to the uprights inside and the fall was at the correct angle. Used the Floplast mini guttering from Screwfix. Works well for me..

Nebbit

As a general comment about gutters on sheds, not many people seem to have them these days. However I made soakaways, downpipes and gutters on our shed which is nearly 30 years old, and I am sure that this effort has prolonged its life.