where do I drill holes for curtain holders?

Jemma01

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82152635#Comment_82152635

The hook moves a bit, it's messed up the wall, but the screw itself is firmly sitting there 😭

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82152983#Comment_82152983

Oh that's interesting, all I really want is to remove the hook, if the screw stays there, I wouldn't care, it's 2mm thick hardly visible.

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82153282#Comment_82153282

I threw the screws away, they were covered in plaster, probably screwed in manually 🤔 very thin 2mm diameter max, probably 20/25mm length.

the photos I'm attaching are directly from my phone, not resized sorry about that. The holes are tiny. That hook holds the curtain tiebacks.

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82153379#Comment_82153379

when I don't ask I cause more mess. This forum is saving the house 😆

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82154059#Comment_82154059

I had another post showing the curtains, they start from the two corners, and then maybe 25/30cm (didn't measure) on both sides of the door. That 25/30cm is already occupied by the thick curtains, so I don't have enough space.

twopenny

Even easier to fill any holes then.

And they shouldn't be as big.

They'll be just small screws because they aren't taking any weight. That's probably why there's no raw plugs.

victor2

If you've got an old flat blade screwdriver that you don't care about too much (because it may get damaged), you can try gently hammering the screw round by putting the screwdriver head in one of the remaining slots, pointing down towards the floor, if it's the slot on the left of your picture,, hitting the screwdriver handle, and seeing if the screw rotates anti-clockwise a bit. If it does, keep tapping the screw round until it comes loose and you can pull or twist it out with pliers. I've done that with the odd destroyed screw and it's a bit quicker than drilling it.

WIAWSNB

Does the tieback have any 'play' in it at all? Ie, can you pull the unattached end away from the wall even by a mm?

If so (and, if not, then just force it away a touch), slip summat - say a toothpick - behind it, and wobble and rotate the hook as you slip it further in. Once half wayish, tap the raised end inwards to as to pry the screwed end out - ie, the 'toothpick' is the pivot. Repeated gentle taps. Move the 'pick further in towards the screw as you can to increase leverage on it.

Or, use a 5mm drill bit and drill in the centre of the screw head. Once it goes in the depth of the head - 4mm or so - the head will hopefully fall off, or try levering the hook away again to force it.

Remove the 5mm but, and close the chuck to near the protruding screw's shaft size. Place the jaws over the screw end, and tighten it up. Low gear, low speed, reverse, and gentle unscrewing.

Skim of 'fine' filler.

For new fixing, try and avoid the metal edge beading, use a masonry bit with hammer, hold the drill firmly to keep it steady, and a fairly fast speed coupled with gentle forward pressure - it's soft plaster and thermo brick, it should be easy.

Vacuum out debris (hold the nozzle half over the hole), and a snug plastic plug inserted deeper - beyond - the the plaster layer - you may need longer screws than supplied?

WIAWSNB

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82154652#Comment_82154652

In addition to Victor's worth-trying idea, you could try a suitably-sized flat blade screwdriver directly on the screw head. Sometimes a flattie will catch the two best slots in a damaged crosshead.

You could also cut a couple of small pieces from a plastic milk bottle side, and try slipping them under the end of the hook base that's nearest the screw, if it'll go in there.

Then, as you try unscrewing the screw using the flat-blade screwdriver, also turn the whole fitting anti-clock at the same time. Hopefully the plastic will make it slip round easier, and not dig in.