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Is fault due to loose connections or faulty socket?
Microwave switches on then turned off immediately. Double socket radio works but makes a crackle sound. No tripping . Is it due to loose connections or faulty socket. How much to expect for call out? Thanks
Comments
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Why not move the Microwave to another socket and see if it works ok ?
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I am not confident with electrics, but checking if a socket has a loose connection is on a par with rewiring a plug.
Just make sure you turn the power off first !
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Since the law changed in 1994 and moulded plugs became the norm I reckon most UK adults have never wired a plug and wouldn't know how to do so without consulting the likes of Google.
Check the microwave works elsewhere.
Then as above, power off, two screws out and a visual inspection.
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Gosh is it that long ago. I can recall being taught how to wire a plug and the lengths of the three wires
Things that are different: draw & drawer, brought & bought, loose & lose, dose & does, payed & paid3 -
It's much more likely to be a loose cable rather than a faulty socket (although it could also be loose screws on the cable connectors).
If you are looking to head off multiple electrician call-outs and excessive charges for a replacement socket if it does turn out to be that, then buy a new socket yourself and ask an electrician or other competent person to fit it for you.
If you buy the new socket from somewhere like Screwfix, you'll likely be able to return it if it is unused/unopened.
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It's a double socket, and both sides display the same symptoms?
What you describe is classic of a loose wire connection, and the most likely location will be either the L or N terminal of the socket itself.
The radio takes such a small electrical draw that the dodgy connection can just about cope, although the crackling is quite a clue to the issue. The higher load of the MW causes arcing at this loose connection, making it go high-resistance, which is fortunately enough to stop the MW working at all in your case - a good thing. (Something like a basic heater would continue to try and draw power, which would almost certainly lead to the terminal overheating.)
Obvs stop using it!
If you are going to investigate this yourself, or with the help of a competent neighbour/relative/friend, then it's essential that the power to that circuit is killed, or turn off the whole CU. If the terminal is very badly loose, then fair chance the wire will pull out as the socket is released - that would not be good if 'live'.
If it is very obviously a loose terminal screw, and there are no signs of heat damage - blackening around the terminal, melting or warping of the cable insulation, etc - then you should be ok simply ensuring the wire is replaced fully, and the screw tightened down securely. And check the others too.
But do remove the loose wire to check the terminal properly.
If you are going to get a sparky to do this, then you may wish to buy a new socket first if you are concerned about it matching. If you aren't, then don't bother.
This is a very simple task for a sparky, and I'd hope a friendly local fellow would do this coming or going to a 'proper' job. Worst case, if the wire is heat damaged, they'll need to (I presume) crimp a new short piece on to it, but chances are this will all be done in under a half-hour.
Cost? No idea. £10 tops for a plain white socket, and whatever they charge for the job. Since you 'know' what's required, you can always ask for a 'ballpark to replace a socket'.
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Strange as it is, it’s now working after I tested it in another socket. I decided to try it on the faulty socket and it’s now working ok. Am still concerned about the crackling noise it made and wonder whether should still call a sparky to check out, call out £50, that’s reasonable price. I am still not comfortable using that socket although seems to be working ok now.
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Is your home insurance up-to-date, in case the dodgy wiring caches fire and burns your house down?
If it sticks, force it.
If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.0 -
Would an insurance company pay out a claim that involves dodgy wiring?
Only asking the question for clarification.
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I'd be surprised if they didn't. By the time the house has burned down, the most the fire brigade inspector will be able to say is that it was an electrical fault.
I have yet to see an insurance policy that won't pay out for fires caused by electrical faults.
If it sticks, force it.
If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.0
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