Maintenance and running costs for a larger, older house

Bramble194

Hi all

We are looking for some advice to help us understand potential ongoing maintenance and running costs for a house we are considering buying.

The house is in Surrey, was built in the late 1800's as a stable block and then converted in the early 1900's. It is 240sqm and has high ceilings (around 3m) throughout. It's fully double glazed and well insulated in the loft, but the EPC rating is band D (65) mainly due to the single brick walls. It has external woodwork around some of the windows and all of the roof eves. The upstairs exterior is unpainted render.

Could anyone with experience of living in a property along those lines give us any advice as to the likely overall ongoing maintenance/upkeep costs and energy costs?

We will ask the current owners for their views as well.

For context, we currently live in a 1980's built 180sqm house and our annual energy costs are £1,700. We don't have any real maintenance costs currently aside from a bit of internal redecorating.

Happy to provide any further details which might be helpful.

Many thanks in advance for any advice, thoughts or tips you can provide!

tetrarch

Could you ask the current owners what their bills are?

Regards

Tet

Herzlos

Given the single brick walls, I'd expect your heating bill to at least double.

gwynlas

A lot will depend on how well property maintained to date a survey will give you a much better idea of if/when you need to be looking at structural work

You should factor in the cost of insulating the single skin walls which is a fairly straightforward job,

Dependent on the age of the heating system you could also be looking at upgrading radiators.

The capital outlay will obviously have an effect on the EPC and long term running costs

Runner_Duck

If the wood work is painted and is exposed to sun, expect to re paint every 4-5 years. We were quoted £10K+ to do this 10 or so years ago for my late parents' 3 bed, 2 bath house (built in 1941, also in Surrey). Granted they were the original leaded light windows and a complete faff to do so the painters were probably not interested as it would not be a quick in and out. That house also had cast iron guttering and down pipes that needed regular painting. If scaffolding has to be used that escalates the costs. Assume you have had someone check the state of the roof thoroughly.

FreeBear

The house is in Surrey, was built in the late 1800's as a stable block and then converted in the early 1900's. It is 240sqm and has high ceilings (around 3m) throughout. It's fully double glazed and well insulated in the loft, but the EPC rating is band D (65) mainly due to the single brick walls. It has external woodwork around some of the windows and all of the roof eves. The upstairs exterior is unpainted render.

Highly unlikely to be a single 4.5" (~115mm) single skin. A double thickness 9" (~230mm) would be the norm. Single skin is generally reserved for outbuildings. A solid 9" brick wall isn't as bad in terms of heat loss as some claim. I have a mix of cavity (50mm wide, insulated), and solid 9" walls, yet my gas bill is less than half of what similar sized properties are paying. Also lower than an EPC estimate. Decent levels of loft insulation, good double glazed doors & windows, and a program of draught elimination have all helped.

If you really do have 4" walls, then insulating them would return worthwhile dividends - I'd suggest internal insulation using cork or woodfibre with a lime finish. Avoid using cement and plastic based materials in order to maintain "breathability". On a solid 9" wall, insulation doesn't return much of a saving, although it can help to reduce the effects of condensation.

Bramble194

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82114124#Comment_82114124

Thanks, and you're quite right - it is solid double-brick walls, just with no cavity.

Myci85

There is a period property forum you should be able to find on Google, and I expect you might get more experienced owners on there.

Not what you've asked, but will you be buying with a mortgage? As many lenders won't lend on single skin brick walls if this is what you are describing.

Myci85

Ignore that last comment, just seen your reply above.

magicmoneyportaloo

Is it listed?

If it is maintenance will cost significantly more, and getting permission to make changes is vastly more complicated.

stuart45

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82114124#Comment_82114124

As FreeBear stated, 9inch solid brick walls aren't that bad. In theory the U value is 2.1 compared to a brick/cavity/brick which is 1.7. However in practice a lot of solid walls have been found to have much lower U values when tested, with some being as low as1.4. Cavity walls on the other hand have sometimes been tested at over 2.1. A lot depends on the type of brick, and quality of construction.