ABS sensor pump - ford cmax

strawb_shortcake

I posted the other day about my car being recalled, I initially thought this was to scan the DPF as some have cracked, but they also did a power train software update. This was done on Tuesday.

Car is 9 years old, diesel and has 93k on the clock. I've owned it 6 years.

Tuesday evening my Husband did a short drive and said it felt sluggish. I drove it a short distance on the following morning and it went into limp mode, though there were no lights on the dash.

Switching it on and off again and it was better, and then driving back home after the short journey it was better again, but there was a faint smell of burning.

I called the dealership who completed the recall work and explained the issue and also that I'd had no other issues before hand and enquired if it was linked to the recall work. They asked to see it again and I drove it 7 miles to the garage that afternoon and it drove normal.

Day later the garage called me back and said the front brake pads and discs needed replacing as they were down to 1mm, however this wasn't picked up on the MOT in June, or they were low at the last service in Dec 25. They then said the bigger problem was the ABS sensor pump has failed, was binding with the brakes and needed to be replaced, all in I'd be looking at £2000 for it all to be replaced. They also charged me £120 for the diagnostics, these are not my usual garage and it was only taken here due to the recall.

My car has been completely reliable, flew through MOT. Other than it was going in to have a new TPS fitted, there have been no warning lights, no symptoms or any issues in driving the call. It once went into limp mode very early on in getting the car, it was fully checked and no issues were found.

I remain a little dubious that the two events aren't related, but appreciate that may just be me and my annoyance with the situation.

But would appreciate any advice or thoughts from someone more knowledgeable than myself on cars about this. I.e. could the ABS sensor pump with no warning, symptoms or warning lights?

Is there anyway the two events are related?

I collected my car and drove it to my usual garage, but as they are so busy I'm not sure when they'll be able to look at it.

I'm not good at patience but I'd also like thoughts from others.

Sorry it's long but just wanted to try and cover everything

Ty

david29dpo

You are right to be concerned.

I would be very surprised there are no warning lights, not even a ABS one.

Hunt round for a better garage, don't go back there!!

Goudy

Any ABS problem will cause an ABS warning light.

You can check the ABS warning light works as it should come on when the ignition is turned on, where it will run a quick test of it's self and then should go out after a few seconds or when the engine is started.

A faulty ABS system won't usually* cause the issues you are experiencing though, with an ABS fault the braking system will continue to operate as a non ABS braking system. You wouldn't detect any difference unless you braked heavily enough to lock up the wheels.

I suspect you have a different issue. Something is causing the sluggish behaviour that feels like the car is in limp mode, but you aren't getting an engine management light usually associated with limp mode. You are also experiencing a burning smell, so I would strongly suggest one or more of the brakes are stuck on.

This can be a problem when brake pads and discs wear very thin as the pistons in the caliper have been pushed too far out of their bores and tend to tilt and jam but it could easily be due to dust, grit and crud or even rust and wear of the pistons in the calipers.

There are a few ways to check this, one is jack the car up and spin the wheels by hand with the handbrake off or you could try letting the handbrake off on a "gentle" slope and see if the car rolls freely, while carefully covering the foot and handbrake in case you need to stop it quickly.

*It could be possible a relay inside the ABS pump is stuck causing the brakes to be stick on, but I would assume the self test would detect this and throw an ABS warning light. You could test this theory by finding and removing the ABS pump's fuse and see if the brakes free off.

I tend to agree with the above post regarding finding another garage.

ABS pumps can be re manufactured at a faction of the cost of new and calipers can be refurbished if needed.

Mildly_Miffed

When was the brake fluid last changed?

No, any work on the DPF or updating engine management software won't cause the brakes to start sticking and holding on. But previous poor maintenance will. Neglecting brake fluid changes.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic - it absorbs water from the atmosphere. It's meant to be changed every couple of years, to help prevent components in the brakes from corroding internally, and also the fluid boiling at too low a temperature.

And, yes, brakes that are sticking on will cause you to use more fuel and your pads to wear more rapidly.

No, it won't cause the ABS light to come on. No, the MOT doesn't look at pad and disc thickness (unless they can be seen through the wheel without removing the wheel), just whether the brakes are actually braking effectively. It would pick up brakes binding and being held on, though.

Goudy

Here we go

Ford C-Max Brakes Sticking

The ATE MK100 ABS pump fitted to a lot of Fords between 2013 and 2019 have a sticking brake issue.

A whole lot cheaper than £2000 for a rebuilt unit even when you factor in getting the discs and pads replaced as well.

Ford C-MAX ABS (Pump & ECU/Module Combined)

strawb_shortcake

Thanks all,

Travelling today so not been easy to get online.

Car is currently with my local trusted garage for their opinion.

Brake fluid is changed every other service, and would be due this year so roughly 19 months since last change