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Turning a 12v permanent socket to a switched live socket.
Trying to do more digging on how to do this.
I don't learn too well with text on a screen but can follow a video better. I found a write up & it lost me but then I found a video & once I saw it I think it's basically the same thing.
So I get that you get 2 piggy backs, you expose the wiring of one & crimp in to the other. That's the tails connected.
They come pre-loaded with their own fuses from my experience which goes in the top slot, or seems to.
So looking at the connection on the left in the thumbnail & ignoring the one on the right….
Let's say the left connection of the left wire is where the 12v socket fuse currently sits (& is permanent) and the right end of that wiring is the switched fuse.
Do I just take the 12v fuse from its location, put it in the bottom part of the piggy back fuse on the right & leave the existing piggy back fuse in the top?
If that's correct then that'd be fine for an empty slot but what if I can't find an empty switched slot? Do I then put the existing switched fuse in the bottom slot on the right, pull the piggy back fuse out, put the 12v perm fuse in to the top slot
Which would then leave no fuse at all in the slots on the left side, only the supplied fuse that always sits in the top slot?
I feel that questioning is going to lose some folk but I'm lost anyway. Hopefully someone gets what I'm asking.
For what I want to do - turn the 12v socket in a MK5 Golf from permanent to switched.
And anyone saying it turns off after 10mins … not in this car it doesn't.
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Comments
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Why dont you just wire in a switch ?
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- I have very limited knowledge. I've wired my own front dash cam in using piggy back fuses & YouTube as the route is quite straight forward.
- The main reason I'm asking this is for a rear cam install. I'm not looking at keeping the car for years & years so was looking at a basic install of plugging in to the 12v socket in the boot & just tucking the cabling to one side. Not the tidiest & not what I'd do if I was keeping the car for any considerable time but ticks a box for the situation I'm in. I obviously don't want to be having to make trips to the boot every journey to plug/unplug or switch on/off.
- I use an FM Transmitter to play music from my phone. I have to plug & unplug this for every single journey. If I do what I said in the OP then I could just leave it in as what I said in the OP would take care of both the 12v in the front & the rear I imagine (unless they're on different fuses).
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I’m lucky with my car as it’s a 7 seater, I get a 12v socket in The front, another in the middle row and one in the rear seats / boot.
All ignition live.
Why not do what my friend did, he got an extension 12v socket, plugged it in the front, lifted the door seal plated and ran it to the back of the car, simple and cheap. Took 20 minutes maximum.
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Why not ask an Auto -technician to give you a price. Might not be very expensive and you can be sure it is SAFE
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Isn't that just extending the 12v socket? But keeping it as ignition live?
I have one in the boot and don't need it to be live.
In the end I managed to sort the rear dash cam install & route to the fuse box with a piggy back switch. Didn't want to do that as there's a 12v socket in the boot I'll not use for anything else but it got the job done.
I've also ordered a 12v switched socket adapter thing so I can leave my FM Transmitter connected at all times & just flick the switch.
Annoyingly it wad cheaper to buy a twin adapter/extension than a single. I only wanted one but wasn't paying extra money for it.
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Just buy one of these or similar built in switch , no need to add wires near fuse box if thats the 12v socket you mean
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I have in the end. Came yesterday.
Though the one I got was 1 switch for both sockets & not individually switched like the one you sent. Mine was around £1ish less.
Haven't tested it out yet (to see whether it rattles around when driving).
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Like this ? It's the one I have couldn't find it last night 😅 It doesn't rattle
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