We’d like to remind Forumites to please avoid political debate on the Forum.
This is to keep it a safe and useful space for MoneySaving discussions. Threads that are – or become – political in nature may be removed in line with the Forum’s rules. Thank you for your understanding.
Bit confused on how I'm supposed to re-felt shed roof.
Absolutely no idea with terms so I'll stick with my own description of the job as it should be pretty easy to figure out to what parts I'm referring to.
My shed doesn't slope from high to low as a single sloping roof.
My roof is a triangle with a peak at the top as you're looking at the shed door. Slope up to the top from the left & same again on the right, high point down the centre.
Now my understanding is to roll a sheet out for the bottom section on the left & then the same on the right with the third and final (or so I thought until today) section to cover the peak & dropping down on either side, overlapping the sheets that have just been put on by 100-150mm.
I'd read that the first sheets you space out the nails about 100mm at the points where the sheet is halfway up the roof towards the peak.
Not sure about the spacing where it's to be folded on itself as it meets where the guttering will be kind of area. Think this was also 100mm.
Anyway, on refreshing myself I've now found a piece saying I need to nail somewhere near the top of the shed, I imagine either side of the peak but very close to the peak. I guess every 100mm also.
That's one of the bits that got me - why do I need to nail right up at the top? Is it not kept on at the overlaps on either side as well as the folded bits that'll be front and rear? Why do I need to run a line of nails down the centre too? (or near to the centre).
Then another write up said I should overlay a small strip of felt over the third piece I've just put on as some sort of peak capping I guess. Which will obviously need to be nailed on if that's applied.
But I've been noseying at the neighbours shed who has a similar shape to ours & they have no such centre strip. It looks like just 3 pieces as I initially thought.
Anyway, over to you knowledgeable folk.
🤐🤐🤐
Comments
-
That's one of the bits that got me - why do I need to nail right up at the top? Is it not kept on at the overlaps on either side as well as the folded bits that'll be front and rear? Why do I need to run a line of nails down the centre too? (or near to the centre).
Unless you live in an exposed area you don't need to nail (properly called 'clouts') the felt near the 'ridge' (the top 'peak'). In fact my experience is the fewer clouts you use (within reason) the better, as each one is a point where you could get leakage in the future.
If one sheet will cover the ridge with a decent overlap on the two lower sheets then it would be enough to secure the edges of the top sheet. Personally I'd use a bituminous-based felt adhesive to stick the edges of the top sheet onto the lower sheets with only a few clouts as security. You can then dab some of the adhesive over the top of the clouts you do use to help seal around them.
There's a school of thought that using lots of clouts helps stop the felt moving around due to thermal expansion/contraction, but modern felt is a short-life product and you'll be redoing it in a few years anyway, so if it does creep a bit due to too few clouts then you might just need to replace it a few months earlier.
1 -
It sounds like you mean you have a pitched roof shed.
The additional nails down from the peak will be to stop wind going in and lifting the felt.
If you are planning on having some t felt over the top you would do the additional nails at the top as the piece of felt capping/covering the peak tends to be more susceptible to being blown off aswell.0 -
I'm going to guess this comes down to personal preference then as reading the 2 replies that have come in I'm taking it that reply #1 is in line with my original way of thinking & reply #2 is with what I've just read today (3 pieces as I originally thought with a thin 4th piece being like an extra cap to the peak….even though the 3rd & what I thought final sheet covers the top of she shed, surely?).
I've found out the hard way that nails can lead to leaks. In fairness I was probably using the wrong nails for the patch up job & went through too far. The felt in place is also an absolute minimum of 13yrs old now. Probably older than that.
I was told bitumen adhesive is sort of optional but I think I'd just use it anyway because it can't harm things & I've already dealt with a leaky roof before (or rather things being damaged because of one).
🤐🤐🤐
0 -
Have you got felt tacks? Big chunky and easy to tap in.
You seem to have the general idea. I'd use your common sense. Tack itso the wind wont lift it.
Cut the felt roughly to size before you put it on the roof. It should go a couple of inches front back and bottom.
I found having tacks in pocket and using a short handled hammer easier when doing it myself. Gave me more 'hands' 😉
I can rise and shine - just not at the same time!
viral kindness .....kindness is contageous pass it on
The only normal people you know are the ones you don’t know very well
0 -
Right now I have absolutely nothing other than a stanley & a hammer. I'll be having to order everything in for the job so am just making sure I'm on the right track before ordering things.
Although this questioning doesn't really impact on the things I'll need to be ordering - felt, clout nails, bitumen adhesive, brush (unless I've an old one somewhere) & that's about it.
It's more the contradiction in ways that I've read about.
I suppose you're going to get that I guess - everyone will have their own expert opinion. I just want to make sure that I don't do something wrong because if there's something I'm good at then it's that.
🤐🤐🤐
0 -
My roof is a triangle with a peak at the top as you're looking at the shed door. Slope up to the top from the left & same again on the right, high point down the centre.
That's an apex shed.
When I last recovered my shed roof, I gave up on felt and used EPDM. Not much more expensive, no nails, no leaks as you're covering it in a single sheet of rubber (like a pond liner) and good for 25+ years. You can buy a kit from various online sellers.
N. Hampshire, he/him. Octopus Intelligent Go elec & Tracker gas / Vodafone BB / iD mobile. Kirk Hill Co-op member.Ofgem cap table, Ofgem cap explainer. Economy 7 cap explainer. Gas vs E7 vs peak elec heating costs, Best kettle!
2.72kWp PV facing SSW installed Jan 2012. 11 x 247w panels, 3.6kw inverter. 37 MWh generated, long-term average 2.6 Os.2 -
I built a shed with a felt roof during lockdown, and I expected the felt to last a lot longer. It has cracked open where it's bent over at the end of the roof.
I still have part of a roll of felt left, so hoping to just leave everything in place and just recover.
0 -
I wouldn't rely on nails alone and would use felt adhesive a well. Otherwise strong wind can create higher pressure inside the shed than above the roof and this pressure can lift the felt and rip it off. Pressure difference can be small, but the area is big and hence can be the force.
0 -
''My roof is a triangle with a peak at the top as you're looking at the
shed door. Slope up to the top from the left & same again on the
right, high point down the centre.''Any chance of a photie?
0 -
Confirm your email address to Create Threads and Reply
Categories
- All Categories
- 355.3K Banking & Borrowing
- 254.7K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
- 455.9K Spending & Discounts
- 247.9K Work, Benefits & Business
- 605.1K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
- 178.8K Life & Family
- 262.9K Travel & Transport
- 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
- 16.1K Discuss & Feedback
- 37.7K Read-Only Boards




