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How to remove old metpost

booksandbikes
booksandbikes Posts: 211 Forumite
Fourth Anniversary 100 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper

We are getting a new fence installed across the back of our garden, and we are starting to remove the old one (the fence company charges £600 to remove the old fence apparently!). We have an old metpost that is firmly stuck into the ground and just will not budge. If my measurements are correct, it has about 1ft stuck into the ground.

We've tried levering it with a scaffolding pole after soaking the ground. We've put a pole into it to see if we can wiggle it and loosen it. We've tried wedging the pole under the edge of the post and using timber as a fulcrum. We don't have access to a car jack and not sure that will work as the post isn't on level ground. We've had to dig down around it to be able to access it - not so clear on the photo but it is sunken into the ground. It is surrounded by rocks and large tree roots. And there is a concrete wall in front of it so awkward to get to. Does anyone have any suggestions?

The new fence is to start where the empty metpost is and go along to the left….yes, I know there is a concrete post and another post to be removed but I'm trying to tackle one at a time. Worst case is that the new fence will run along the inside of the existing fence, but we still have to remove the exposed post for them to put a new post in. Help!!

Metpost2.jpg
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Comments

  • booksandbikes
    booksandbikes Posts: 211 Forumite
    Fourth Anniversary 100 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper

    Just to add, I've read the other thread but not sure if I can use those solutions because our post is in a sunken bit of earth. We can use the concrete wall as leverage, which we have done, but to no success. 😵

  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 18,491 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic

    Bash the Metpost from as many sides as you can get to with a big sledgehammer. If it moves a bit, try levering up again with a long pole (wedge a good sized rock or something close in to act as a fulcrum point). But it could be set in to concrete low down. You may also find much of it has rusted away so the whole thing doesn't come out.

    Chances are, once you get the concrete post out at the back, the metpost will come out with it.

    Any language construct that forces such insanity in this case should be abandoned without regrets. –
    Erik Aronesty, 2014

    Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.
  • WIAWSNB
    WIAWSNB Posts: 3,229 Forumite
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    edited 17 May at 3:58PM

    Hi B&B.

    The main issue you/your fencer will have is not removing these old bits, but fitting the new. Cuss the original fencer who did such a good job…

    What I would suggest is, do not fit your new fence along a different line. If you know that this fence is 100% yours, and 100% just on your side of the true boundary line, then - for pity's sakes - fit the new fence along the exact same line.

    So, just you, or your fencer, cut all the old posts away flush with the ground where they need to - the remaining metal stubs in concrete can rot away at their leisure. Then fit brand new, in new fresh ground, starting wherever. There is no set rule on post distances, so if you need to plant the first post a foot to the left, or right, of the old, so be it.

    And, do this once, and once only - use concrete or composite posts and gravel boards.

    (The above assumes your fencer's £600 bill doesn't take into account removing these stubs?)

    Did I say to not move the fence line? Phew. Don't.

  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 18,491 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic

    And, do this once, and once only - use concrete or composite posts and gravel boards.

    Concrete or composite posts will need holes digging. But they will outlast any metpost & wooden posts by a long way. 10 years for wooden, 50 years or more for concrete. Composite, 25-30 years according to google (no experience of them myself).

    Any language construct that forces such insanity in this case should be abandoned without regrets. –
    Erik Aronesty, 2014

    Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.
  • bjorn_toby_wilde
    bjorn_toby_wilde Posts: 1,041 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker

    Car jack?

    I have levered one out by attaching the metpost to a loop of rope, inserting a long pole through the rope then using a pile of bricks about a foot away from the post as a fulcrum.

  • molerat
    molerat Posts: 36,023 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic

    Are you sure it is not set in concrete ?

  • WIAWSNB
    WIAWSNB Posts: 3,229 Forumite
    1,000 Posts First Anniversary Name Dropper
    edited 18 May at 7:01AM

    Most likely/almost certainly is.

    So leave well alone if you can - cut it flush. Or hammer it to fatigue.

    Or, dig out the whole concrete lump - if you really really must.

    Or just stick a new post in to one side. Imo, best solution all round. There does not have to be a post at the very end.

  • Boohoo
    Boohoo Posts: 1,851 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper

    It could be a concrete in metpost type or normal metpost that was set in concrete.

    If that is the only post left to remove you could ask the fence company employees to remove it and give them £50 for the trouble.

  • WIAWSNB
    WIAWSNB Posts: 3,229 Forumite
    1,000 Posts First Anniversary Name Dropper
    edited 18 May at 7:16AM

    Looking at your pic again, B&B, what is the visible lump immediately to the post's right - a stone, or a lump of concrete?

    If you really must remove that 'post, then slowly dig around it to expose whatever is holding it - eg concrete - and then you'll know the task involved.

    What tools do you have? Does it include a cold chisel and club hammer? If so, if you expose a concrete lump that's too awkward to lift out, then bash the m'post repeatedly back and forth to fatigue and remove most of the visible part, and/or use the cold chisel against it where it meets the concrete to chew it off, and then set the chisel upright on a suitable point on the top of the lump, and repeatedly hammer down on it.

    Nicely firm blows, but not 'mega' - keep it safe and manageable. Five blows, then move the chisel along to make a line - another five blows. Repeat.The concrete lump will very likely split to make it lighter and easier to remove. It might take thirty-five blows in total...

    Safety glasses are an absolute must. And a cold chisel with protective rubber handle is wise too.

    Curious about the fence behind yours - it appears to be arriving at that point at and angle, so a triangular no-man's land in there?

  • bjorn_toby_wilde
    bjorn_toby_wilde Posts: 1,041 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker

    That visible lump looks like the concrete holding that green metal post.

    If the metpost is in concrete then it isn’t in very deep. The fins on the concrete in type aren’t much longer than what’s already exposed in the OP’s picture.

    image.jpeg

    A bit more digging and you’ll soon know. My money’s on the traditional type. They are a devil to shift.

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